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#41
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Hi
Thanks. First outing likely to be open, flowing torch and then MK gp. Mike |
#42
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Is there anywhere saying what inserts in the hubs gives which value? I'm confused as to which one I should be using to get what level of toe or caster.
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Lets Off Road! |
#43
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feel a right newb but have not use inserts before! |
#44
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I think I've figured the rears out.
Standard toe in is 3 degrees. The inserts have the values printed on them so if you view them from above the value they say is the value they will add or remove. But the front caster block ones I'm still confused.
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Lets Off Road! |
#45
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Its printed on the inserts or is that not what you mean ?
__________________
CML DISTRIBUTION -SOUTHWESTRC -HPI - RUDEBITS - MR O FOAMS - LMR - ATOMIC CARBON -STARREGORSEHOLIDAYPARK - ICON RC
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#46
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The caster inserts have +10-10 or +5-5 so I guess there are 4 options for caster angles.
For example if I wanted 30 degrees caster which of them do I need? Its all new to me this, none of this nonsense with 4wd
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Lets Off Road! |
#47
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So with the +5 arrow pointing forward you add another 5 degrees of castor. +10 = 35 degrees which we have found very useful on high bite Astro. The converse for if you put the -5 arrow pointing forward. We'll be doing a tech tip section on the website soon.
__________________
5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#48
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Nice one cheers Adam.
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Lets Off Road! |
#49
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any tips on building and filling the shocks. im am new to durango shocks
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#50
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__________________
Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#51
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Brilliant Thanks
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#52
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#53
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#54
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Quote:
Fill oil and work air out, Leave shaft extended and install and tighten cap with bleed screw out. Slowly push shock shaft in until there is about 2mm shaft left before threads start. Install bleeder screw. Work the shaft a couple times. Remove bleeder screw and slowly push shock shaft back in. Re install bleeder screw. |
#55
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#56
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#57
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Here's the Shock Build guide we posted for the 'Slim' Bore shocks.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...k-build-guide/ The principle is exactly the same.... As your shocks will be new. Run the car a few times and then unscrew the bleed screw and perform the bleed processs again... This can help in stopping your car feeling really hard at the extent of up travel. If your car feels wierd during a meeting when it seemed fine before, this can sometimes be the problem.. A slight build up of air occurs over time and it's a good idea to do the bleed process at the start of a meeting if you know the set-up is good, then it will stay consistent through the meeting.
__________________
5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#58
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on the long travel rear shocks its not needed.
but on the front shocks, its worth just adding a couple of drops of oil into the cap. when bleeding the shocks, if you don't get oil coming out of the bleed hole, there isn't enough oil in the shocks, open the shock again and add more oil
__________________
Chris Doughty Team Durango |
#59
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Cheers Adam & Chris...... That's helped loads
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#60
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I found that with my fronts even though I poured in enough oil to make the dome on the top before screwing the cap on.
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