Go Back   oOple.com Forums > General > 1/10th OFF ROAD

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-08-2021
gromit gromit is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 93
Default RAISING COSTS OF RACING

As everyone is aware everything is going up in price and RC racing is not excluded, is it time to ask the question regarding the use of a dedicated second buggy as a wet weather car.

In the old days the brushed motor era a wet car was pretty much the same as the dry, the wet referred to the addition of water proofing the electrical components due to the primitive water proofing provided by the manufacturer.

But today the electronic components are pretty well water proof out of the box, may be the rx being not so
the wet car today is primarily for low grip wet conditions and for those that can afford the second chassis and complete set of electronics it gives a significant advantage over the driver that has to adapt his single car to wet conditions.

Being able to adapt the car from dry to wet is not impossible and some will say it is easy and I am talking rubbish, but seeing another driver with a wet car stand up, layback, rear motor and a higher trun motor and ESC setup for low grip does seem to make you think he's got an advantage and you need to follow to be competitive. The main advantage is the wet car works straight away for q1 where changing the dry setup to wet may take a couple of qualifying runs to achieve as good wet set-up and by then you are down the qualifying list.

Consequently we are all spending a lot of money when all we need to do is ban the option to use a second car being used on the same day and convince everyone that matters to drive one car at the meeting, it's an escalation we don't need and helps to keep the cost down and improve racing. BRCA and clubs it's in your court, after all F1 and BTCC don't have spare cars so why do we?

Last edited by gromit; 09-08-2021 at 11:22 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-08-2021
welshjames welshjames is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 11
Default

I see what you are saying and agree in the most part, the skill is adapting the car and your driving to the conditions.
It can be done, but coming from someone who has done it in the past its a massive time saver to have a car setup ready for wet rather than scrambling between rounds to try and get it done.
For the top top guys they will want every tenth out of it, for a lot of us average joes its about having a laugh in the tent rather than frantically beavering away to get it ready, so the cheaper second car helps.

That said I see what you are saying and you have a good point, I put off buying a second car for a long time. But after trying to adapt my carpet car to use at Worksop it took a while to do (after racing saturday carpet, then sunday worksop) so vowed to get a wet/low grip car.
Infact used the same yesterday at Robin Hood, got caught out by the rain threw wet car down rather than spending half my day setting the car up (as it was practise and I just wanted to drive).
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-08-2021
NeilRalph77's Avatar
NeilRalph77 NeilRalph77 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: LV-426
Posts: 770
Default

But where do you stop? Say I have a high grip car with alloy chassis, hard wishbones, laydown gearbox, stiff springs and oils, high torque slipper and pokey 7.5 then it rains. I change this car to a carbon chassis, soft wishbones, stand up box, soft springs and oils, soft slipper and put my 8.5 in. Can you really say it's the same car?
__________________
----Cougar 2 team----Cougar 2 works----Cougar 2000----
----Schumacher Bosscat----
----Traxxas TRX1----Losi XXX CR----Losi XXX BK2----
----AE B4 ft----Xfactory X6^----DEX210 V1----
----TLR22 3.0----TLR22 4.0----TLR22t 4.0----TLR22 5.0AC----
----AE B6.4----
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-08-2021
Pistol123 Pistol123 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 30
Default

I tend to buy a new car as a dry car with nice electrics, then buy a second hand chassis for my wet car and put a cheap hobbywing quicrun esc and old 7.5 speed passion motor and cheap servo.

My dry car stays quite clean but my wet car often looks a bit of a mess but as it was cheap it doesn't bother me. I tried converting my 22 4.0 between standup and laydown and always felt under pressure changing it and would often get it converted to standup only to find the sun coming out and I didn't have time to change it back.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 13-08-2021
andy110m andy110m is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 415
Default

It used to be that only one chassis was allowed per class at Nationals. I don’t know if 10th changed it but that’s still the case in 8th off road and circuit.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 13-08-2021
mark christopher's Avatar
mark christopher mark christopher is offline
Spends too long on oOple ...
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: haxey, doncaster
Posts: 7,787
Send a message via MSN to mark christopher
Default

personally i don't see the problem, my wet car is an old dirt car, old electrics that i don't mind putting down and running, it they blow up in smoke, its my old cheap stuff.

I'm not sure what makes you think modern electronics are water proof, most are defiantly not, i know some have spare gearboxes complete, shocks motors just for wet, personally I'm of the mentality of cheap car, lob it down and race, or go home

for years we tried to get 10th ic to allow a wet car, as all that happened in the wet was drivers went home, now they allow them, 10th touring allow them too.

reason btcc and f1 don't is simple, its in their rules
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD

Last edited by mark christopher; 13-08-2021 at 04:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 13-08-2021
daz75 daz75 is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,846
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark christopher View Post
personally i don't see the problem, my wet car is an old dirt car, old electrics that i don't mind putting down and running, it they blow up in smoke, its my old cheap stuff.

I'm not sure what makes you think modern electronics are water proof, most are defiantly not, i know some have spare gearboxes complete, shocks motors just for wet, personally I'm of the mentality of cheap car, lob it down and race, or go home

for years we tried to get 10th ic to allow a wet car, as all that happened in the wet was drivers went home, now they allow them, 10th touring allow them too.

reason btcc and f1 don't is simple, its in their rules
It's in their rules to keep costs down which is what the original poster is pointing out
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 16-08-2021
welshjames welshjames is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 11
Default

But I think the difference there is those teams would spend millions developing (assuming we mean full size BTCC/F1) wet derivative cars to be optimum (different aero spec, suspension to work with wet tyres etc..).

As they want every last drop of competitive edge.

At RC level, "you" (the royal you) have the choice of changing your car, or putting down a cheap wet car to still run rather than the pressure of trying to change your dry car.

They are trying to keep costs down in motorsport to bring in new manufacturers/teams, in RC you can spend as much or as little as you want to thats the beauty of it.

I would rather have a cheap wet car and keep running, then refuse to use my dry car and go home lol.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 18-08-2021
charlesk's Avatar
charlesk charlesk is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 460
Default

My best ever result came at a wet 2WD race with a high grip car, took setup changes and a ball diff.
Had hard plastics, laydown gearbox and even a brass front pivot block, as I had limited time to make the changes.
You do not need multiple cars, it's an easier way certainly
, but the correct changes and adapting your driving to the conditions is what it takes.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 30-08-2021
millser's Avatar
millser millser is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Camborne, cornwall
Posts: 410
Default

Been racing for nearly 30 years at different levels

Think is the cheapest it ever been, with motor and batteries lasting longer

Also not having to buy all the extra to get the beat out of everything
Motor lathe, brush cutter, motor manager, batteries matcher, zapper and cycler etc and only getting 1 season out of you motor and batteries if you are lucky.
__________________
CORNWALL
Grass all the way
simon mills

http://www.oople.com/forums/image.ph...ine=1360240269
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 30-08-2021
Ashlandchris's Avatar
Ashlandchris Ashlandchris is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mirfield
Posts: 1,202
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesk View Post
My best ever result came at a wet 2WD race with a high grip car, took setup changes and a ball diff.
Had hard plastics, laydown gearbox and even a brass front pivot block, as I had limited time to make the changes.
You do not need multiple cars, it's an easier way certainly
, but the correct changes and adapting your driving to the conditions is what it takes.
Sometimes I swap tyres 😂
__________________
I've got Araldite and a Swiss Army Knife - what more do I need?


Yokomo YZ-2

No 4WD because nothing lives up to my original Optima. Until now maybe?...
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com