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#41
08-11-2010
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I've got long RPM ball cups and 3racing balls on mine. The 3 racing balls seem to be HPI sized balls.
I know the Durango team all use the Durango ball ends with no real problems. But, arguably they can drive and avoid ball-cup popping objects! 
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#43
11-03-2012
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Now Im looking at replacing the balls and cups as this weekend we had a race.. all fine no probs till I get to the finals.. Ball cups flying left right and center.. dammit
So Q time has anyone tried drilling holes in the top of the cup like the TD ones have for easy removal of the stud while still attached? Or is it that I don't have to worry about removing the cups a few times (for reasons other than crashing) and they become ruined and need replacing. Thanks
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#44
11-03-2012
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When I had my 410R I had HPI ball studs, can't remember part numners and Losi ball cups. Perfect, never had a problem. I never raced with the stock parts, replaced the ball studs and cups on day one etc.
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#45
12-03-2012
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Quote:
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#46
12-03-2012
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Quote:
cyclone balls rango balls do fit but tight...
__________________
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#47
26-03-2012
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Anyone tested the
hot bodies cyclone D4 61582 ball studs 4.3x13mm?? thinking they should fit as the other ball studs that fit are 4.3mm
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#48
29-03-2012
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Just picked up the rpm long blue and tc5 studs, anyone using this combo? I only picked up enough for 1 set of studs so shall I prioritise steering or camber? I may use the existing TD studs with the rpm cups also...
EDIT: threads are way too short on the tc5 ball studs. Going to try jamming the TD balls into the rpm cups-should be interesting! Cheers Last edited by Streetfighter-r; 29-03-2012 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Update
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#49
30-03-2012
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Anyone find that the rpm cups free up after a while on the TD studs?
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#50
30-03-2012
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Quote:
__________________
Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon
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#52
15-08-2012
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Not yet I was too impatient and took them off.
I did get a 4.7mm ball cup reamer from HK and started to ream one out but that quality too broke  Anyway so I ended up cutting a couple of slots in a TD ball stud and that helped to ream it out. Idealy would be squeezing it with a cutting tool/pliers so it creates a little burr or something that sticks out a little . However I do think that they (RPMs) need to be deeper and sit further over the TD studs otherwise it seems like they don't really close up after mounting them and they pop off. Im still going to try a couple of things
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#53
15-08-2012
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You can't use rpm ends on TD balls.
They are way to tight. They bind the wishbone up, if you remove the shocks from the wishbone The wishbones won't fall under there own weight.
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#55
15-08-2012
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Quote:
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#56
15-08-2012
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Quote:
Hold the cup tight to a peice of wood drill through the cup, nice clean hole.
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#57
17-08-2012
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HPI ball studs plus Losi rigid ball cups.
They don't pop off and after 2 seasons still no play. The standard TD ones are woeful at best, they are like a wizards sleeve. You can't set camber accurately because of the horrendous play. It must be embarrassing after all the years in the business they still can't get it right.
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#58
17-08-2012
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Infact I'm going to take my losi ones off and put on some new TD ones.
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#59
17-08-2012
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I've been racing for over 17 years and they're the worst ballcups I've ever come come across! The ones that came with my Kyosho Raider had less play. 
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#60
17-08-2012
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I just ordered a set from amain so Im going to give them a try again, maybe not at the next race but definitely at the track next time.
I just hope that I got the ones with the new material
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