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#1
09-07-2013
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Turnigy 6000mah battery with Dex210 rtr?
Just waiting for my rtr DEX210 to arrive and need to get myself a couple of batteries and a charger. I've seen this battery on rc geeks looks good to me, high mah and high C at a very good price! Is this a good battery for racing and more importantly is this battery suitably for the stock electrics on the rtr?
https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/Turnigy-RC...-NC6000-2S2P-6 Is there anything I should know about choosing a battery for this car, can you overload the stock electrics with a high C battery? Would I notice a big difference in performance with the below battery, apart from the fact the first one will last longer? Or is this difference more noticeable when shaving milliseconds off lap times? http:// www.giantshark.co.uk/gens-48...-p-407511.html Also found this charger also on the giantshark site, is this good for both batteries? Looks as though it gets pretty good reviews: http://www.giantshark.co.uk/power-b6...-p-406285.html Cheers Dean. 
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#2
09-07-2013
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You'll need to get a power supply or large 12v battery to use that charger, but if you've already got one, its actually pretty good, i run a couple of them and have done for the last year or so with no issues (they are branded differently tho!)
TBH the big battery will provide far far more power than the stock electrics can draw, and it also weighs a tonne. You might be better off with the saddles, as they are slightly lighter, and will still provide more than enough power. And if you get a 4wd car eventually (you will!), it keeps flexibility to use those batteries in another car. Another option is to go for shorties/stubbies, i'm running 4200mAh nanotechs and don't give anything away in top end or acceleration to people using full size packs. And i can muck around with weight distribution by moving the battery.
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#3
09-07-2013
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Thanks for the reply mattr, you may have saved me more wasted cash!
 So do you think the larger pack will be worth having once I upgrade to better electrics or is it too heavy to be any good for racing? Also I'm having trouble finding the shorty packs for sale on any websites other than U.S. ones, where do you get yours?
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#4
10-07-2013
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For racing I would recommend packs closer to 5000mah, to keep the weight down. Since you are looking at the turnigy batteries, have a look at the hobbyking site http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.asp
These are popular choices, I linked the ones in the UK warehouse assuming you are located there. Full sized pack http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html Shorty pack http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
__________________
 Team Durango Australia www.team-durango.com Proline Australia A list of option parts and other information for Durango vehicles. www.durangofansite.com
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#5
10-07-2013
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+1 on hobbyking uk warehouse and turnigy packs
I am currently running the 4200mah shorties in my Team Durango Dex210 And I am running the 6600mah normal stick packs in my Team Durango Dex408 You can order them and they are delivered by either 24 or 48hr parcelforce. Alot of our club drivers are also using this brand for cost versus performance. I would even go as far as saying that they pack more punch over some of the higher priced branded packs on market today.
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#6
10-07-2013
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Quote:
You will have to work out if the slight improvement (barely noticeable) in motor performance is offset by dragging another 50-75(?) grams of battery round the track. (most of these high C rating batteries can deliver far more current than the motor needs/can use anyway.) I've found that the big batteries don't help me. But the small ones do. Also, the 4200mAh packs i have, i can run for over 15 minutes before cut off (3.2v/cell) race heats/qualifiers are usually 5 or 7 minutes. The longer you run, the hotter your electrics get too (10 minutes on the 4wd takes the motor to the thick end of 100 degrees C, 5 or 7 minutes takes it to about 75-85. Same thing applies to 2wd, just not as hot!.) As for the charger situation this is the charger i have: (two of them) http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...cessories.html Which is the same as the one you linked to, just with different branding and colours. I also use a 16A PSU, http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...40V_220W_.html which with half an hour of soldering and a bit of inventiveness (and a handful of electrical bits, wire, bullet connectors etc) gives you a nice solid charging set up, which is fairly easy to swap and change as your needs do. i.e. racing two classes, get another charger and connect it to the same PSU so you can charge two batteries at once, move to 8th scale, get the 8 amp version or a 10A charger.... and so on. Anything breaks down, you can get most of the bits (PSU or charger) within 48 hours from the UK. Rather than having to get a complete mains charger. Hope that helps.
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#7
10-07-2013
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One thing that is important with the batteries I linked, you will need to get a Deans/T-connector to solder onto the charge leads or buy already done http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_1pc_.html
__________________
Team Durango Australia www.team-durango.com Proline Australia A list of option parts and other information for Durango vehicles. www.durangofansite.com
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#9
10-07-2013
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That works too, it's my preferred method as well
__________________
Team Durango Australia www.team-durango.com Proline Australia A list of option parts and other information for Durango vehicles. www.durangofansite.com
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#10
10-07-2013
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Thanks guys, lots of info to be getting along with!
So, after reading the info on the charger I think I'll order the Turnigy one you linked to mattr, looks as though the other could be a copy and the Turnigy one works out cheaper anyway (although haven't got to the postage section yet!) I was planning to connect this to my car battery to start with, although I may have to check this as the battery is not really accessible in my car but it does have jump points under the bonnet, I assume I can just connect to these... Anybody had experience with this? I think you've sold me on the shorties, I suppose the trade off is lower weight for lower mah but still they have a high C rating so nice and punchy and as you say gain more tuneability! I'm gonna run this lot by the guys at my local track just to see if there is any track specific advice but I that may be my order with hobby king sorted!... You guys don't work for hobby king go you? Good call with the connector at the end there... I don't even own or know how to use a soldering iron! I guess this hobby will change that!
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#11
10-07-2013
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Hi. I run the Turnigy nano tech 4200 shorty too and be aware that they are roar approved but not brca approved and are not on the approved list and some clubs may not allow them for racing in the uk though it would seem a lot will let you. Just something you ought to know.
 Dave.
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CAT L1 B6.1D Dex 210 FTX Vantage Cen FF.NT
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#12
10-07-2013
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That is a good point, might be worth asking at the club (for club racing they may allow non-BRCA packs)
There are BRCA approved shorties around, but they are a bit more spendy (like almost all the BRCA approved packs!) Just to give you an idea. http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...orty-pack.html And no, i don't work for hobbyking! The last lipo/esc/motor i had to deal with at work kicks out 440v and about 85 bhp (and weighs about 200 kilos all in) don't think we get them from hobbyking.......
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#13
10-07-2013
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Quote:
__________________
Team Durango Australia www.team-durango.com Proline Australia A list of option parts and other information for Durango vehicles. www.durangofansite.com
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#14
10-07-2013
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Team Durango
Linear Mode
