Setups

[Lowie]

I just made this documentation-page for myself ... but have some blancs.
Can somenone fill them in?
(I guess the Shop-codes for the new colour-rated springs might be the same as the older codes?)

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/Predator/Pr...ng%20shart.pdf

[mattym0310]

Hi Lowie,
The numbers you have on the sheet for the 'x10' springs are actually the ones for the 'x11' springs.
White - XDO21
Blue - XDO20
but am unsure of the rest as they aren't on the website. The x10 spring part numbers, or so I believe, are the ones beginning in 's' underneath the springs on the picture at the top of the page. Except for the pre-compression spring which is S121. Does that make sense?

[Lowie]

well, i did thought of that too and hesitated.

and indeed, i couldn't find the numbers on the website


thx

[Tom3012]

Could someone please take a picture of the underside of the wishbones for the new pushrod position?

Ive just done mine and im using the blue servo mounts but it seems really stiff and the car wont bottom out, which im guessing puts alot of strain on the actual rocker pivots?

Thanks, Tom

[AndyM]

Are your pushrods the correct length Tom? This may be why your car won't bottom out.

I think most people have the new holes just outside of where the wishbone slopes down to the thinner material (if that makes any kind of sense?).

Hope this helps

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by Tom3012

Could someone please take a picture of the underside of the wishbones for the new pushrod position?

Ive just done mine and im using the blue servo mounts but it seems really stiff and the car wont bottom out, which im guessing puts alot of strain on the actual rocker pivots?

Thanks, Tom

Tom, have you cut the shock balljoints down?

[Lowie]

the turnbuckles on my short pushrods are 35mm.
Here you can c some pics I quickly took and posted on my webserver:

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred_pushrodMod2/

I first measured it up, then drilled with a 1.5mm drill and then with a 3mm drill.

and ... thx!! By taking and checking these pics, I noticed the left front drive shaft is bend I hadn't noticed it earlier.

Kev, what do you mean by cut the shock balljoints down?
Should you cut a balljoint? Where and why?
I haven't and do not seem to have any contact between the pushrod and drive shaft, ...

[Tom3012]

Originally Posted by KevLee

Tom, have you cut the shock balljoints down?

I haven't no, how much should I take off?

[KevLee]

This is my current stick pack setup and will be my starting point for the first national.

Stick Pack setup:

Rear
Yellow spring with compensator spring
middle hole on tower
tower reversed to give more droop
New hole in shock mount (more droop)
17mm of shock shaft showing
New Piston (same as additional 57 hole)
30wt oil depending on temp
Hubs high
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward no gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
Wishbone just below level
Antisquat - Standard brace


Front
Spring - Red
New Piston (same as additional 57 hole)
Oil 32.5wt
3mm internal shock spacer
2.5mm cut off balljoint
14mm of shock shaft showing
New postion on wishbone using blue servo mounts and hole drilled at edge of webbing
push rod turnbuckle - 22mm - mounted on top of yoke with cone spacer also
top wishbone fully back (max caster)
ride height - wishbones slightly sagged
No Roll bar
camber 1 deg
Slight toe out
Front hubs modded and mounted low

Extras
20g under front shocks
5g to space speedo from shaft
2 x 5g to space lipo fromt shaft
Trakpower 4900 - approx 280g
Motor Tekin Redline 6.5 geared on 20/72
Tekin RS Pro mounted up front to get weight forward
One-way shaft
Bumper cut down

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by Tom3012

I haven't no, how much should I take off?

Cut 2.5mm cut off the balljoint -this allows the shock to compress more and will allow the car to bottom out and a little more.

I also run a 3mm internal shock spacer -this stops the spring retainer clashing with the rocker arm which stops the shocks from ever fully extending.

Start with all the other lengths etc i've posted in the setup above and it should all work quite nicely .

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by Lowie

Kev, what do you mean by cut the shock balljoints down?
Should you cut a balljoint? Where and why?
I haven't and do not seem to have any contact between the pushrod and drive shaft, ...

Hopefully its answered above, its to change the range of travel.

If you don't do this you may struggle to get enough up travel, unless you have a shorter pushrod... but then you may not have enough droop, unless you don't run the 3mm shock spacer... but then if you don't run that you'll find that the spring retainer hits the rocker and you don't get a "clean" range of travel.

My head hurts a little after thinking about all this but basically thats where i am... i hope it helps

[Lowie]

well, thanks for the thinking, KevLee

I had to read your post several times before I could understand it all, but it does indeed make sence.
Yesterday, I started prepping my car and worked very late, just to have everything OK.
I drove in a local competition today, not so high level of competition, but much fun, on a bumpy grass-track.

I used your (KevLee) Stickpack starting setup on a local track: a grass-track.



The setup worked as a charm.
I had some problems, finding the right tyres for the wet grass (it was raining all morning), but it worked out with some Shum Full SPikes and minispikes when the track was getting dryer.

I finished 2e but I have to admit the level of competition was not that high.
Later on, a friend, who used to drive an X10 some years ago, and who won the competition today, tested my X11-08 (short pushrod, stickpack, new steering parts) and he was positivly amazed.
When he test-drove my pred it was clear he was running much quicker with my X11 then he did all day with his Tamiya 501
He admitted a lot of progress had been made with the actual X11-08, since his X10 and told me he was hesitating to order a Pred once again.

And once again, I had no breakage on the pred. I make it an isue of driving as clean (and fast) as possible, without braking my limits, getting my Pred to the finish, every time. Just to prove people wrong when they say the Pred is "brittle" car
...
but my driving skill ... well they are improving, but I'm not there yet lol

[Panic]

Wow nice track,,,,even the drivers stand is covered with green. Thats wht i call enviromental friendly !

[Lowie]

yup, and yet
that track is only used for 8 competition-sundays a year, not for training, nothing ...
Only electro 1/10 buggies
and still the neigbours complain.

[Alfonzo]

Well done Lowie, good to see you enjoying the fruits of your efforts.

[KevLee]

Lowie, good to hear you got on with the setup and enjoyed the meeting. Its also good to here that someone else had a go and was impressed!

I used the same setup at the first 4wd BRCA Regional on Sunday at Swindon and tq'd and won and i didn't really need to change anything again. We had 3 preds in the A final qualifying 1st, 4th and 5th and all were using the basic setup posted above.

Kev

[Lowie]

Originally Posted by KevLee

... We had 3 preds in the A final qualifying 1st, 4th and 5th and all were using the basic setup posted above.

Kev

yeay,
Preds go conquer the world

[Lowie]

I drove at Kampenhout (Belgium, old astroturf) today.

Prevously I had problems getting a good setup for the X11-08.
Long story, told shortly: I used the KevLee Setup ... fitted Minipins in the rear and on the front
and the car went very good!

I won't say the car was excellent because I'm no excellent driver but that setup for sure is a very good starting point.

I experimented a bit with tyres as the track became very difficult near the evening. It's a typical Kampenhout situation: when very dry and warm weather, the dust that's on the bottom of the astroturf, gets loosened and the track becomes more and more slippery.
ALl drivers had difficulties finding a good balance near the end, seeing all kind of trics to gain traction and steering in the front (extra wings, dremeled Staggerib, ...)

Cooper tested my car and was very positive about the feel of the car also.

What I ended with was the Kevlee-setup +
Rear:
Minipins (OUT: cut one row)
Height: 16mm
Rollbar: hard (short)

Front:
Minipins (OUT: cut three rows, IN: cut 1,5 row)
Spring: Yellow (in stead of red)
Height: 20mm
Rollbar: Medium (middle)
20 grams of weight onder the shocks


Also I used:
6.5 CS-motor
Teking RS Pro with throttle profile 3
Corally 4200-Lipo

And the slipper was 'kinda loose'
Using Minispikes yellow (OUT: cut 2 rows, IN; cut 1 row) on the front made the car a bit understeered but also very drivable

!? I had to loosen the throttle on flat jumps to prevent the car to go nose-up. Might have tried to ad some weight in the front also, but didn't find the time.

[Lowie]

I need a setup for a clay track, dusty en very slippery.

Yesterday, Bart "Phoenix" phoned me, totally disappointed.
This sunday he will be competing in a manche of our Belgian-Dutch Championship at MVB Bergschenhoek (Netherlands).
(youtube-movie from the track)

Bart went training but not find a good setup (he was constantly beaten by his friend, novice on Offroad and driving another car).

Anyone some tricks op your sleeves that might help him?

He is running an X11-08, stickpack lipo, 6.5 BL if I recall well, and new steering parts. BB-shocks with standard pistons.
So far, he didn't want to try the new steep-pushrods-mod neither, saying the pred drives great as she is.
ANyway,

If anyone has a setup for such a track, please chear the knowledge.

[KevLee]

It would be good to have the setup as he was running it and we might be able to make some suggestions from there. Also to know what was lacking..

I really do think that on a track like that the pushrod mod and hub mod would make a big difference.