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Old 01-12-2008
c0sie c0sie is offline
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Question Better 'rotation' in S2, any ideas?

Im trying to get my S2 to rotate better around very tight, slow corners as I feel that because its basically understeering around them that I am not only slower through the corner as a whole but also having to take a wider line into corners and therefore opening myself up to people diving underneath me.

I seem to have quite alot of rear grip, which works well at my club as it is quite slippery and any less rear grip just ends up with the rear fish-tailing and snapping out all the time.

After watching the cars at yesterdays Caldicot meeting I noticed that the S2's that were there on the day seemed to rotate very flat with little roll and shock compression from either side where as the X6's (Losi pink rears) and B4's (AE silver rears) seemed to roll alot more. I wonder if this is part of the issue?

Im currently on:

Front
30' hubs, full EPA and full steering lock, 32.5wt front oil with Losi blacks, middle on the tower, outer on the front arms, outer on the hubs, steering knuckles in the middle, outer camber ballstud hole with 2mm spacer, 35g lead up front, wishbones lightly below level (chassis is level as you look at it from the side)

Rear
3200 TP Lipos with 60g lead under each, Novak L motor (lighter than an R), 3rd hole from outside on tower, bottom inner camber link hole on tower, outer(??) hole on hub, SWB chassis with LWB on hubs (to get more weigh over the front?), inner hole on arms, 30wt oil, Losi pinks, upper wing mount hole on tower, 10mm-ish gurney, diff is only 2 weeks old but ive had this issue even since I rebuilt the diff to smoothness, wishbones level.

I think I have orange front pistons, and red rears but I forget

Other than this issue the car is brilliant

Any ideas??
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Old 01-12-2008
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had a think about this, and....

1/ move shocks to inside hole on front tower.

2/ more antisquat, as much as 4 degrees.

3/ more rear toe, as much as 4 degrees.

4/ rear ARB

5/ more front droop, not sure how much you have now.

6/ bigger front piston to allow more dive.

7/ move Rear shock wishbone hole in to new hole to remove some stability.
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Old 01-12-2008
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not all at the same time, just some ideas to try.
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Old 02-12-2008
spud31 spud31 is offline
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Cris weight transfer is what you need, after looking at your S2 at MK GP its a very very stiff so no flex to generate grip, thus shocks need to be spot on to get the turn in you want.
As Craig has listed try these but you need less grip on the rear to give rotation and more camber change on front to give more grip as it rotates.
i think less shims under tower ballstud will give more camber change as the wheel loads up.
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Old 02-12-2008
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Also worth trying using the extra inner hole on the rear wishbone, i.e drill a new hole 9mm in from the center of the current inside hole on the wishbone, then mount the shock on the inner hole on the tower, you will have to break out Mr Dremel to remove a little bit of CF from the tower as the shocks will catch a little bit, on the rear i then use 30wt red pistons and pink springs, i know a few people that use this setup as well as myself and they say its a big improvement

For info at the front i use 35wt red piston black springs, middle on tower and outer on the wishbone. Some people goto a blue spring.
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Old 02-12-2008
spud31 spud31 is offline
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Jonathan do you agree tho its the stiffness of the chassis that causes the issue
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Old 02-12-2008
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No
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Old 02-12-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTimer View Post
Also worth trying using the extra inner hole on the rear wishbone, i.e drill a new hole 9mm in from the center of the current inside hole on the wishbone, then mount the shock on the inner hole on the tower, you will have to break out Mr Dremel to remove a little bit of CF from the tower as the shocks will catch a little bit, on the rear i then use 30wt red pistons and pink springs, i know a few people that use this setup as well as myself and they say its a big improvement

For info at the front i use 35wt red piston black springs, middle on tower and outer on the wishbone. Some people goto a blue spring.

I did the rear shock mounting mod and some wheelbase changes on my original chassis as recommended by Jonathon and the car was mucho improved
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Old 02-12-2008
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I recon a Rear anti-roll bar would help that out alot!
On the 1st outting at Caldicot with Craig's X6 I didn't have the roll bar on and it did feel like it needed a little more front end.

I had the roll bar on for Round 2 and it made a awesome difference, really dialled in the front end at lower speeds on Caldicots track!
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Old 02-12-2008
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Try something like this:

Front shocks inside on tower out side on wishbone
30 wt orange with blue springs.
outer camber link on tower & hub with 2 washers.
30 grans of lead in front (20 infront of servo & 10 upfront.)

Rear shocks on the inner hole on tower & inner 3rd hole on the wishbone (extra hole drilled 9mm further in- this makes a huge diffrence)
30 wt oil orange pistons & pink springs.
camber link middle & middle.
2deg anti squat & 3deg tow-in
Running swb chassis with short wheel base at the hubs aswell.

I found this setup very good with Lipos

The short chassis and the extra inboard pick up for the rear shocks makes a huge diffrence!

looking at the setup you have now id try swb & a softer rear end first & go from there.
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Old 02-12-2008
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Hi Matt, do you use a lead plate under the lipo's aswell?
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Old 02-12-2008
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I ran with about 100g under the lipo some time less!
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