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#21
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At Newbury the broken out drive count was two rear and one front, The two rears broke on the adjustment screw side which is classed as the female output drive.
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Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff! |
#22
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I saw a broken part yesterday, is this a design flaw or is it a bad batch to come out of the factory? Any idea if the bad parts would be replaced if so? Very tempted by the car but would like to know first if this is fixable?
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~ICON-RC~ATOMIC CARBON~LMR~TONISPORT~NUCLEAR RC~
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#23
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Tris is on the case of some outdrive savers
I will keep you all updated!
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Schumacher |
#24
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I have broken 2 all year, so can safely say this is not a design fault. Both of the 2 i did were off the back of large impacts to that particular side of the car, so dont worry Griff
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Schumacher, Hobby Wing, Thunder Power, Anderson, Sanwa, Trishbits, P-Dub Racing, Rudebits, Inside Line, Nuclear RC, RC Domination, RPC |
#25
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A question for Simon and all the Team:
Did you ever try on shock shaft, to replace the short ball sockets by long ones ? I mean, this way, it prevents dogbones to hurt diff outdrives at full compression and it allows more droop setup Just my 2 cents
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
#26
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RPM do these. 70311 Up Travel Limiter Clips For All 1/8" Diameter Shock Shafts
Will they fit and has anybody tried them for other cars etc. May be better than the o rings compressing and snapping the out drive.
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#27
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I did this, it was awful
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#28
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Hey guys
I saw the new cat @ york a few weeks ago Ben Jemison was driving it and for the couple of lap he managed between breaking diff outdrives it looked awsome! I don't think he managed to finish a run due to the poor quality of the diff componants, he seemed a little P**sed off to be honest I'm sure that schumacher will sort out the problem and reissue everyone with new updated parts Buggymaster |
#29
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I think ben had made a mistake with the build though, i think his caster blocks were on the wrong way.
I think its best to let schumacher make an announcement on if there is an issue or not, instead of assuming what will happen. I personally dont think that is fair as people will be calling schumacher after reading your post and asking when their replacement parts are coming in. |
#30
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yeah true alot of people havent had a issue with there outdrives anyway theres plenty of things to take into account before making assumtions on the build quality.
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#31
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I'll try and be thorough with this. The SX is an absolutely awesome machine so please do not let such a minor hicup tarnish your opinions of it.
The outdrives are strong for the purpose, when they are weak is if something catch's - such as the bone into the slot, or a stone caught in there. So they don't have that added strength to cope with this additional strain. So do take care with setups. What can cause the additional strain is: - Too much camber change, raise internal ballstud/use a longer turnbuckle position - Too much up travel, use external shock limiting of around 2-3mm - Too much driveshaft plunge, go to diff high position. If you do break an outdrive, feel free to post on here but I do strongly recommend that you contact Schumacher, take photos, write out a setup sheet. This will help Schumacher in their findings, it is being looked at. Personally, I have broken 1 on the rear using the manual setup. So to prevent any further I have done the following things: (which also results in a far better setup) Trimmed the top off the front castor blocks, lowering the outer ballstud. Remove all spacing from front inside ballstud, raising the inner ballstud. (Together gives far less camber change, and more progressive steering) Gone to shortest inboard rear CF bracket, with 4mm ballstud. Outer hole on hub, with 60mm turnbuckle (longest posible link) (This gives linear camber change throughout suspension travel). Limited all four shocks externally by 3mm Gone to rear diff to high position, set the belt 1 setting looser than manual. (This will reduce driveshaft plunge, increases traction) If anybody wants to PM me or any other Schumacher team driver, please do, I'll always put 100% into helping anybody. Chris |
#32
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Those RPM limiters are very convenient parts because of they could be clipped on the shock shaft without disassembly. But unfortunately most of the time, even the thiner one are too thick I would suggest a far cheaper idea: home made "C-washer": Based on 1mm thick Nylon washer, transformed the "O" into "C" with just a cutting pliers. Easy to clip and it allows very fine tuning
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
#33
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#34
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Quote:
higher inboard ballstuds and lowered castor block on the front, and longer camber link at the rear, less anti squat, low diffs, loose belts drilled rear pistons with 30wt, 35wt front kit pistons, no limiters at all, middle at the top and inside at the bottom on shock positions. plus it`s had lots of air over both the doubles and table top at speed. 5.5L on a 18t to kit spur/ratios, I agree with Chris the quality of the car is excellent and strong. Plus stop knocking the wing mounts they are far better the most other manufactors. Si.
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Trader feedback:-http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78095 It was once said to me, if you light the blue touch paper you need to stand well back[/CENTER] |
#35
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Quote:
I was thinking about shiming out the pivot blocks (let's say 1mm on each side) to push a little the limit of driveshaft hitting the outdrive... Of course it depends on adding 2mm on the track width makes the car still complies the rules
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
#36
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Great advice Chris.
Still doesn't change the fact the outdrives are too hard IMO. The fractures are all brittle fractures. I would rather have a more ductile failure on a component like this. A little more ductility and flex would allow just enough play to prevent flexes. I am not talking about a low yield high UTS material, I don't want to bend a handful. I would just prefer a slightly lower modulus. |
#37
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Agreed. But for now they don't have the flex/ability to take any strain, they just *ping* broken, so until it is resolved we have to just think about avoiding the cause to keep this awesome machine on the track.
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#38
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Quote:
I know Matt White & I think Barnyard too, both run a wider car. Currently mine is as per manual, but there is room for additional width. I am going to compare mine to the B4 for width and then add shims to suit. This puts a little extra strain on the 2.5mm screws, so do check them for bends. |
#39
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I run as std 2mm between the front blocks and have gone out as far as 3. For rear i am currently running 4.5/2. This does obviously pull the drive shaft away from the out drive. This was not the reason for me making it wider - it was a handling preference.
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Matthew White |
#40
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Thank you Matt
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
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