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#21
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Good stuff guys!
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For Custom Decals visit http://www.graphicsbat.co.uk http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62298 |
#22
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#23
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#24
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I would recommend using illustartor with the cutstudio plugin because if you fancy/need upgrading the machine later and don't get a roland then you are stuck with a load of cutstudio files that you cannot use in other programs. unless the newer cutstudio versions have an export function?
that's why i would use illy and export using the plugin to cutstudio. that way you will have all yer files in ai or eps whis are more or less standard formats. |
#25
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Do let me know on the masking vinyl stuff, I need to get some soon |
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Sorry dude got loads left at the moment, maybe you can get some other people on here together to spread the cost.... |
#27
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Help !!!!
Craft Robo cc300-20 lite arrived today, reading the instructions it says to cut media with a backing sheet you need the more expensive cc330-20, any idea why this is ? Why can't I cut vinyl with this ??? |
#28
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I would hazzard a guess that on the 300 model you can't alter the pressure the blade puts on the media. I'm really not sure on this though. Obviously if you want to cut without damaging the backing you will need less pressure than if you want to cut right through.
I'd experiment but you will definitely need to use the mounting sheet (that I hope would've been supplied) so you don't cut into the black cutting strip and damage the blade. Let me know what you find. Can't see any reason why you can't cut vinyl. It's only a tad thicker than paper.
__________________
For Custom Decals visit http://www.graphicsbat.co.uk http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62298 |
#29
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Phew. it's fine !
Works a treat Apparently you can just feed the vinyl without the carrier sheet - makes sense, all other media (without a backing sheet) need you to use the carrier. Looks awesome though - using a Mac and Illustrator, ace stuff Now to design a new shell... |
#30
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im not good with illustrater, any good user guides?
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#31
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Stick at illustrator Mark it's really good ! There are good tutorials with in the package itself, or plenty for free on YouTube. Aside that people like Digital Tutors - http://www.digitaltutors.com/trainin...ator-tutorials or Lynda.com - http://www.lynda.com/Illustrator-tra...als/227-0.html are all good.
People often over look the training and tutorials that come with the software but it's very good. If I ever get stuck using adobe stuff that's the first place I look. Post anything on here I'm happy to help, or there are plenty of illustrator forums out there. Corel draw and inkscape are both okay but depending on where you're getting stuck they all work much the same, it's just the interface and short cuts I struggle with on those 2 so don't use them. Illustrator is the industry standard for a reason. |
#32
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Does anyone have any nice tips for applying the masks to a shell?
I find the whole process fiddly, but then maybe I'm missing something obvious. Especially with really detailed mask cuts. |
#33
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Make sure you've got the area you want it to work in marked on the shell. Just a box will do, then you can get it in the right place easy.
If it's a real detailed one I'd tend to transfer the entire piece to the shell then once in place weed it out as it will carry better unweeded. Make sure you cut too many as well ( the beauty of having your own cutter ! ) and then when you mess the first 2 up you still have spares to use I will say putting things on the inside backwards is a complete arse to do though, I hate doing it, applying to a backwards curve is just a ****. |
#34
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Can you get a whole A4 sheet for tape? That way you can cut out and peel of and stick it where its suppose to be?
Or do you just cover the cutting sheet with tape? OR cut the paper then cut the mask |
#35
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When I make masks I'll use put them in a square or rectangular area, that way when cut out I can tell where they should line up ? Is that what you meant OneKiwi ?
The vinyl I use is 200mm x 50m, so I just cut what I need off the roll, up to 1 metre long and feed that through the cutter. As for putting it on, I just use the same masking vinyl, it's clear, you can see through it, there are always off cuts lying about to use. And you can use it a couple of times if you're as tight as me |
#36
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Anyone tried wetting the shell first then sliding the masks in place? Does it work? Or does it just stop the mask sticking properly... I'll give the water thing a go if no-one's tried it. Crap idea I think but has to be investigated! Anyone used anything like transfer tape? (Commercial folk use that) but I've not found any really low tack tape. Any recommendations? If anyone knows of any very low tack tape, I'd be happy to hear about it. |
#37
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DON'T USE WATER... Just draw lines on the shell, make sure you're careful to line it up to these best you can, then carefully apply, if you sort of tack the lowest part on if it isn't straight pull it off and reposition it. |
#38
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well my cutter has arrived today, have cut some neat designed masks, and are very happy with the results so far...
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SX3, DEX410R, Cougar SV, DEX210, SC10 4x4, Tamiya Top Force |
#39
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Sorry for resurrecting this thread, but I've been looking at one of these for a long time and never really understood the 'carrier' thing - now that so many of you have one, maybe you can tell me?!
The brochure says "The Lite will cut only with a carrier sheet: there's no option as with the CC-200 to cut backed media without one. However you can still cut vinyl with it." What does this carrier do? How is other backed media different from vinyl? |
#40
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The carrier is really a mylar sheet which has a low-tack adhesive coating which enables you to do three things.
Firstly, if you are using a smaller than A4 piece of media, you can use it to affix the media whilst cutting - which makes it ideal if you just want to rev up your cutter for a small logo or something without wasting a whole sheet of material Secondly, if you are using a material that you intend to cut through (or which doesn't have a backing paper), it keeps the material in place whilst you are cutting. Thirdly, it helps prevent you from damaging something that's called the cutting strip. This is something that is situated on the cutter and which gives the cutter a consistent and flat surface with which to press down upon. If you mis-set your cutting blade depth / force, you can cut through your media and backing paper and scratch the surface of this cutting strip. The strip is replaceable (on the C330-20 anyway) but even so, it's clearly best to try not to damage your cutter. With my C330-20, I always use the carrier sheet. Over time, the adhesive loses its tack but I bought a spare pack (2 pieces) and I intend to try and refresh the old one with some spray mount or something similar. I can't speak for the Lite but the C330-20 gets a massive thumbs up from me - it's ace. It's really one of those purchases that is always difficult to justify for casual use but once you do, you'll never look back and you'll keep asking yourself how it was that you ever lived without it. If you've not found them yet, click here for a decent supplier. I get my vinyl from these guys and my CR consumables. The deliveries are super and even when I ordered the wrong carrier, they let me send it back and exchange it for the right one. Can't say fairer than that. Also have to say that the CR 330-20 Cameo (new model) looks the mutts nuts. |
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