RB5 SP2 VEGA SETUP

[InsideLineModels]

No, what I'm trying to say is the the steering lock is limited by the fact that that inner wheel steering knuckle can't hit the c hub with a long ball joint on. Everything becomes in line before that can happen.

[tomtom]

I learn a lot with this car, on setups and by driving it as consistent as possible.

Matt really help a lot, so friendly and helpfull I instantly been found of UK RC racers and people like Kevin and the whole Oople community didn't change any of that.

Run a lot with Matt setup, turn well, very stable and secure. The car is amazing.
No underlipo weight, too smooth and a bit lazy. No under servo weight as it bring a bit of nose diving I didn't like on small double whoops. 92g esc weight always.
Long wheelbase helps, as well as 0 hubs (very high grip bumpy). 0.5 was way too much on high grip for sure, it locks the rear way too much

Setup like that front and rear weights are in balance somewhat. Jumps perfectly flat. Either adding front, rear or both weights or adjust wheelbase really transfer easily on front/rear traction balance

Think it was it. Shut up and play your guitar like Zappa said.

Read Tony's post, start with a silver spring and got less steering overall but a more agressive feel entering the turn. Need braking on twisty parts but better overall. More stable on the front so I could attack more. Definetly an upgrade over my previous setup, Steering arms mod might help that but I guess the good setup is in between too much steering and not enough, and practice make me think a car with not enough is always faster, you can always use the off power steering or brake.

With 3B and silver/cobalt springs, it's almost perfect. Up to a point, corner speed is just too much and it tend to grip roll (but I'm not a good driver ), will try black springs rear to resolve that but there is still a huge margin for setup improvement.

Next to come WC parts, big bores and long chassis. One thing for sure you won't think about any other car available when you got that one and for a long time never will.

[Chalkie]

Originally Posted by InsideLineRacing

No, what I'm trying to say is the the steering lock is limited by the fact that that inner wheel steering knuckle can't hit the c hub with a long ball joint on. Everything becomes in line before that can happen.

Right I understand now.

[RudeTony]

Agree with everything said to help you and in addition I would change from the rear blue spring to the cobalt spring.
The stiffer rear spring will alow the rear to come round quicker and also jack up quicker to transfer the weight forward for steering and not collapse on power to give it back to the rear.
Like Kev siad get 0 deg rear hubs on - No need to lock the rear in so much with more tow in.
I personally run even more anti-squat than Kev (LOL I didn't know) to no rear spacer and that makes the car turn even more mid corner.
Saying all that everyone has to remember that we all drive differently and it's ALWAYS worth trying the advice and learning your car

[gainsy]

Racing a friends rb5 vega at stotfold on sunday
Any tips for a good starting point guys?
It has standard shocks on not big bores

[InsideLineModels]

Is it Richard's?

If it is I think he may have my setup on there.

It looks like its going to be wet though so change the following:

Short wheelbase and add some weight to the rear ether side of the motor (I run 20g rudebits prototypes each side). Make sure rear driveshafts are level.

3b pistons all round with 25wt rear, 35 front - losi oil

Try yellow rear springs or even black if you have them.

[Adam F]

Originally Posted by InsideLineRacing

Just to check another thing Adam. You say you are in the shortest link on the hub. Do you have any spacers under there?

No, I don't have any spacers on the rear.

Will try all this stuff next week, just want to get it as sorted as possible for the MK GP...

[gainsy]

Hi Kev
Yes it's Richards car, he's using his new lazer on sunday
Will ask him to make the changes so it's ready to go
Thanks for the advice

[Skye]

Hi Kev, just picking up on your message to Stu.... The last time I ran the vega in the wet I made the changes to your set up as advised but still really struggled for rear traction.i turned the ESC right down and was as light as possible on the throttle but the car was still like a ballet dancer. What weight would you advise round Stotfold in the wet? As standard I have the full ESC, servo and speedo weights in but feel like it needs weight adding to the rear. There isn't anywhere much to add weight further back than the lipo on the vega chassis though is there?

[InsideLineModels]

Originally Posted by Skye

Hi Kev, just picking up on your message to Stu.... The last time I ran the vega in the wet I made the changes to your set up as advised but still really struggled for rear traction.i turned the ESC right down and was as light as possible on the throttle but the car was still like a ballet dancer. What weight would you advise round Stotfold in the wet? As standard I have the full ESC, servo and speedo weights in but feel like it needs weight adding to the rear. There isn't anywhere much to add weight further back than the lipo on the vega chassis though is there?

Definatley take the servo weight out and if you can, possibly, remove the speedo weight if you still can't get on the power. You can add weight in the pockets either side of the motor. I have 40 g in total there. Aslo if you have a half size lipo weight, you can run it under the lipo at the back. I quite often run one there.

Have you drilled the extra hole in the rear wishbone? Standing the shock up on the wishbone and tower will help.

How many washers do you have under the front innner ballstud? in the wet you should be on 1 or 2mm and in the dry i generally run 3 or 4mm.

Make sure it's not too low on ride height.... driveshafts level

I may be there tomorrow afternoon... but i'm just about to leave for a stag do, so we'll see...

[InsideLineModels]

Originally Posted by x313

No, I don't have any spacers on the rear.

Will try all this stuff next week, just want to get it as sorted as possible for the MK GP...

Raising that will give less side bite going in.. I pretty much always run 2mm under there

[The Chef]

My Vega seems nose heavy in the air, I'm running under speedo weight and under lipo weight, no under servo weight, any ideas?

[Adam F]

If you run drag brake it will dive loads, mine is great over the bumps as I'm normally on the throttle.

Kev will try the 2mm under the rear too..

[The Chef]

I didn't even think of that. As i'm off throttle on take off the brake pulls the nose down, genius. I'm such a moron. I'll take off the drag brake. Thank you.

[tomtom]

Remove drag brake really help me to have a flat car while jumping.

Tony, I run without any shim under the rear block, in what circumstances did you add anti squat ? Didn't try that one.

[The Chef]

I've just put Tony's set up on mine and removed my drag brake and I'll go from there

[SimonW]

I have a 150g St/St 3mm plate under my Lipos as i usually race on dirt and grass and my car is really easy to drive, when the grip is there (astro) it understeers out of corners so i change to a 1.5mm plate @ 75g with harder rear springs and the back starts to loosen and the whole car livens up. I would like to get the longer chassis though as it can turn up it's own arse, kinda like the old cat when it first came out in SWB.

[gainsy]

Anyone know the internal gear ratio of the gearbox?

Many thanks Kev for your help on sunday, much appreciated

[tomtom]

FDR 2.6

[gainsy]

Thanks tomtom