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#1
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Removing old wires
I'm having a bit of trouble removing some old wires from an ESC. The old solder just won't melt.
I'm wondering if the soldering iron isn't powerful enough. Not something I've had to do before. Any suggestions? |
#2
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Do you know how many watts the iron is? You want one of at least 60 watts.
As a rule of thumb do not apply heat to a part for longer than 5 seconds, if you do you run a chance of damaging the internals. |
#3
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Pretty sure it is a 60w but it just won't budge!
All I can do is snip the wire and solder to what's already there... kinda defeats the object of cleaning it up! Bit stuck! |
#4
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Sometimes it helps to apply a little new solder to the old joint to allow the heat to transfer to the old solder.
60w should be more than good enough assuming the tip isnt completely ruined. |
#5
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It's a brand new iron so should be fine.
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#6
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Get some good quality electronics flux and apply it to the joints before you tin the iron with fresh solder. They should then release. 60 watt should be enough.
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#7
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Not really true, I done all my ESC with a good 25w + flux up until I got a solder station.
__________________
Ardgay Models Schumacher CORE-RC Hobbywing Mark One Designs |
#8
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Thanks for the replies.
Unfortunately, I've just accidentally snapped one of the connectors off along with a section of the circuit board rendering the ESC useless. Not having a good day. What time can we start drinking?! |
#9
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Quote. Not really true, I done all my ESC with a good 25w + flux up until I got a solder station.
Ok, fair point. Personally I dont use flux. I use high quality silver solder. No need for flux. Ideally when using flux the part should be rinsed with water to remove any acid left over. Obviously this is not an option with an ESC Last edited by Wig; 31-12-2016 at 02:48 PM. |
#10
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Unfortunate. I think you can start drinking about now!
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#11
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start now. But then avoid eBay or any large Internet retailers.
Or you'll end up with a selection of ESCs arriving over the next week or so. |
#12
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Quote:
Exactly why got me into this mess in the first place! Oh well, live and learn! |
#13
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That's why I have about 400 quids worth of spare electrics......
Last edited by mattr; 31-12-2016 at 03:19 PM. |
#14
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If its a new iron tin it first with a good quality 40/60 solder and not the lead free sh1t. Use the 40/60 solder + flux to do all your soldering, let iron heat up, put flux on part, solder on iron, iron with solder on part. happy soldering.
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#15
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wire removal
Quote:
The best way to remove old wires without damaging the ESC by overheating is to cut the existing wires as close as you can to the connector on the ESC and remove the wire insulation, now there's minimum wire for the heat to travel up so the heat is into the short stub of wire and the ESC connection, then heat the joint and add a drop of fresh solder to get the process going. Don't forget to make sure the iron has been on for at least 4-5 minutes so its very hot. This always works for me and i've done plenty of ESC's Enjoy
__________________
SEMCS - Nemo Racing - LMR - Ralls Racing Yokomo Yz-2 / Yz 4SF - Orion Savox - Xpert - Sanwa - Puppy Paint Email: Sammughal90@outlook.com
Tel: 07774 472531 Feedback Here http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138544 Last edited by Zippy G; 31-12-2016 at 04:49 PM. |
#16
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The main thing is a big tip, then you get More heat transfers to the job quicker
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#17
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Have to agree with some of the OP's responses. Currently use a 25W iron, and flux paste from a plumbers. Works wonders and I can easily do any motor wires and Corally/Banana plug connectors with ease.
Decent solder and flux helps, as well as a clean tip. Occasionally I file mine down again, as they do get crud on, and a quick clean and re-tin works well.
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:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
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