DEX210 ball diff - now featuring on the Krypton Factor

Loheswaran · #1 19-10-2013

The Dex 210 diff is a flipping nightmare.

I built it first time - no problem.

After that - lousy - I had to get the gear diff - I am sure that the ball diff is a ploy for you to buy the gear diff!

I have purchased answer ceramic balls and the ceramic thrust bearings. Still lousy. changed the circlip (and yes I used the right pliers) still nothing.

I am no idiot with diff building having done plenty of 1/12 diff builds, and am, believe it or not, known for my diff building in the on-road world.

That's my rant done with.

CARB · #2 19-10-2013

What is doing, I must say my two have been rebuilt several times using the stock parts

HOTSHOT III · #3 19-10-2013

Some people say that ceramic balls cause problems as due to being so hard they don't grip the plates as well as carbide. This is a very good thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

Try using carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust balls. I changed mine from the stock carbon chrome

to tungsten carbide the other day, i've bedded it in and run about 3 packs through it and it seems OK.

Origineelreclamebord · #4 19-10-2013

I know the stock balls are very bad, and the standard outdrives are too short. Also, I have to admit mine is nearly cranked to full tension, but at that level it doesn't seem to slip or wear, and it's much smoother than the diff from a TRF201 (my previous car).

What exactly are the issues you're having with it?

CARB · #5 19-10-2013

Yes go with the carbide balls every time, although I am using the standard ones, are you getting the cherping noise as I had this and thought it was the diff only to discover it was the slipper clutch.

AfroP · #6 19-10-2013

built my diff with buds silky smooth balls and never had an ounce of bother with it

follow the build guide on the durango website and remember that the thrust spacer are 2 different sizes and shapes

cigbunt · #7 19-10-2013

Don't over tighten the diff as the clip will pop out...

Apart from that it's one of the smoothest IMO

Philim · #8 19-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by cigbunt

Don't over tighten the diff as the clip will pop out...

Apart from that it's one of the smoothest IMO

You should know after the number of cars youve had

cigbunt · #9 19-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philim

You should know after the number of cars youve had

lol your just as bad!

buhade · #10 20-10-2013

Get the Asso diff and shim it, all of the Durango Team Drivers use it in the first range of cars.

IT WILL HELP A LOT!!!!

HOTSHOT III · #11 20-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by buhade

Get the Asso diff and shim it, all of the Durango Team Drivers use it in the first range of cars.

IT WILL HELP A LOT!!!!

Which one, B4, B4.1, B4.2?

Soo · #12 20-10-2013

B4.2 & SC10

http://www.rccarshop.eu/9853-associa...ferential.html

Stu · #13 20-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by buhade

Get the Asso diff and shim it, all of the Durango Team Drivers use it in the first range of cars.

IT WILL HELP A LOT!!!!

That is simply incorrect.

Standard diff did the 24hr Ebor race with one of the first kits a few weeks after released, finished top 2wd at the event, no messin'.

Never had any problems with the standard diff, build it as per the build guide on the TD website, sorted.

Stu.

Jarred King · #14 20-10-2013

Standard diff is fine. I had alot of problem too when i first had the 210.

Some tips:

Follow the pro diff guide, otherwise it will slip all the time.
So make sure circlip is the right way around, compress spring a few times with pliers and dont apply to much clear grease to main diff balls.

Standard ball flat spot easily so you have to break in really slow. I bought carbide balls and easier on breaking in.

Slow figure eights on the track and slow creep up on the diff. dont let diff slipp at any time . once its broken in properlly they last forever.

TD are working on a new diff though...

chet · #15 21-10-2013

I ran my 210 almost every weekend this summer. The start of the season I was having a really hard time with the diff. What I found help was following bfast break in guide.

I ran ceramic diff balls and the stock thrust. But I water sand papered the diff rings to make them true.

If I didn't break in the diff just like the bfast detentions it wouldn't last the day. I found two days of hard running and I had to true the rings and re grease. I was running on high bite clay.

I'm not sure how anyone runs the AE diff? I run the AE gear diff a couple years ago when the durango one was back ordered. It was on ozite and I would strip the diff gear after awhile because is a bit smaller.

buhade · #16 21-10-2013

....

Loheswaran · #17 21-10-2013

with the kind help of Nathan Ralls at MAritime - we were able to pinpoint the problem.
The problem was the thrust race.
I had tried out ceramic thrust balls without the cage, and that was effectively sticking at points.
It didn't help me with my final standings at the weekend - though that would have taken a miracle to resolve (my driving that is...)
That said the ball diff felt so much better to drive than the gear diff

Fabs · #18 21-10-2013

So let me get this right...

Your problem was the NON Team Durango thrust race? So the diff doesn't need sorting then, does it?

HOTSHOT III · #19 21-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by chet

I water sand papered the diff rings to make them true.

This made a massive difference for me

. The 1st time I built the diff I didn't do this, it became notchy quickly and I had to do it up tight to stop it slipping.

The next time this was the only thing I did differently and it transformed the diff action and longevity.

When new the rings have a kind of mottled finish which stops the balls from gripping them properly, when you lap them in with wet and dry you can watch it disappear!

Loheswaran · #20 22-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fabs

So let me get this right...

Your problem was the NON Team Durango thrust race? So the diff doesn't need sorting then, does it?

I had the standard diff - and that was giving me problems. On advice (from someone I will not name) I changed the balls to ceramic for both the thrust race, and the diff.

I think the original problem was in fact the original thrust race itself, it is just that I did not pin-point that in the first place.

I think the original circlip coming off/moving was the problem, that then had the domino efffect of leading to the original thrust race being damaged.

I have therefore bought a new thrust race, and used a different circlip - and together they solve the issue.

In any event I am wiping a bit of 'egg off my face'

But - part of the problem was the original circlip as well