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Old 10-10-2011
jim76 jim76 is offline
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Default X2C Build Tips

Hi
As the Ansmann Team is expanding rapidly at the moment I thought it would be a good idea to set up some threads for build tips for both the X4 and X2C. I know there is advice dotted in threads through out the section, but it will be easier if we can consilidate into one thread and hopefully make it "sticky".

Anyone who has built and run one of these cars is welcome to post in here with any suggestions they have for the initial build of the cars as well as any modifications they may have made to improve on track performance or reliability.

thanks
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Old 10-10-2011
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Danny McGee Danny McGee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim76 View Post
Hi
As the Ansmann Team is expanding rapidly at the moment I thought it would be a good idea to set up some threads for build tips for both the X4 and X2C. I know there is advice dotted in threads through out the section, but it will be easier if we can consilidate into one thread and hopefully make it "sticky".

Anyone who has built and run one of these cars is welcome to post in here with any suggestions they have for the initial build of the cars as well as any modifications they may have made to improve on track performance or reliability.

thanks
We are going to make this a lot easier. Both Simon and I want to have a setup section we just need an editable sheet to start with.

With regards to tip etc, i will post back when i have some more time

Cheers

Danny
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Old 10-10-2011
jim76 jim76 is offline
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I was planning a separate thread for track set ups for each car too. But as you say, the editable sheet will make posting them up much easier.
cheers
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Old 12-10-2011
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Hi
this is what iv found, dont use the kit shock oil, use 20wt in the rear and 25wt in the front if you are running the kit springs, i found with the kit oil on slow jumps it tended to kick the back in the air and land heavy on the nose.

stumpy
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Old 16-10-2011
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When i buit mine i found the kit is pritty well made and easy to build.

first thing i did was drill the kit rear pistons out to 1.5mm (stu wood recomends 1.4).

I also made some crush tubes for the rear hubs.

i also used diff grease on the shock seals.

the diff spring and the slipper spring squash them before fitting them.
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Old 01-01-2012
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I've now built 4 of this chassis type and one thing I do every time now is pre thread most of the holes before I assemble. You can simply use a good quality screw for this or use something like The Ansmann Thread Cutter

Doing this will save quite a bit of effort during construction.

I also like to put a couple of O rings on the shock pistons (outside) to prevent the shocks bottoming out hard.

J
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Old 03-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumpiey View Post
Hi
this is what iv found, dont use the kit shock oil, use 20wt in the rear and 25wt in the front if you are running the kit springs, i found with the kit oil on slow jumps it tended to kick the back in the air and land heavy on the nose.

stumpy
i'll echo that.

to add to the tips, here's a couple of mine

1) do not use the totty pot of grease from the kit, for starters there will not be enough & second i'd keep it handy for just greasing o-rings as it's not much cop for anything else.. either build the diff with Ansmann highspeed grease, or some Teflon cycle grease (which is similar stuff) or get down the local engineering place & get some Silicone grease (it's much cheaper than buying the tiny tubes of associated grease & is the same kind of stuff). Soak the diffballs in a light oil (such as baby oil) before fitting & pack it tight with grease - any excess will ooze out once screwed together, what will do a lot will also do a little.

2) Use a light oil (such as 3-in-1 oil) or vaseline on the idler gear, this is not really recommended & a lot of people say do not oil the gears, however i've known a few people who have had stripped idle gears on all the 2WD Ansmanns (myself included) & it appears the problem is heat softening the gear, so the oil is simply there to aid cooling / reduce friction.

3) Always check under the t-plate after a run, if it feels warm the chances are the diff needs to be tighter or rebuilt & this is likely to cause the problem highlighted in point 2.

4) Always use Moly grease on the thrust bearing.

Going back to my point about keeping the idle gears cool, a trick i've done is to use the Ansmann motor heatsink (part number - 203000205) with the off-set fan - rotate the fan & the fan mount 90░ & clip the heatsink over the motor with the fan hanging over the top of the gearbox at a 45░ angle blowing air onto it.. this has the added benefit of motor cooling, but the initial reason is to cool the gearbox as much as possible to stop heat build-up softening the idle gears.
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Old 29-05-2012
iang454 iang454 is offline
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Default X2C Damper O Rings

I have just built 2 Ansmann X2C cars for my son and I.
The instructions tell you to apply damper oil to the O rings.
I was building all 8 dampers together so pured a little of the kits damper oil into a small tray and put the red O rings into the oil.
I built the first set of dampers then went to start the second set and found that the O rings had swelled in the oil.
I continued the build as I didn't have any more and finished the second set but they are not right and the stiction of the O rings is considerable.
I drilled the rear pistons as advised in this thread on both rear sets and used the same Schumacher Oils.
The first damper set feels really nice and smooth while the second set is very stiff initially then after a few pushes on the car it frees up but is not great.
I have ordered new O rings from my Model Shop to replace the second set.
Has anyone else had this problem?

Over all the cars have gone together well and and we're looking forward to racing them.

Regards Ian
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Old 29-05-2012
Robbiejuk Robbiejuk is offline
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Personally I have never used shock oil on the o-rings, Always use associated green slime. O-rings have been known to swell up if soaked in shock oil for a period of time.
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  #10  
Old 29-05-2012
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Cough...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad-Wolfie View Post
1) do not use the totty pot of grease from the kit, for starters there will not be enough & second i'd keep it handy for just greasing o-rings as it's not much cop for anything else..
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Old 12-06-2012
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I`ll add my findings too then.
I currently run the Monkey kit version. Didnt use the kit shocks as had factory team B4 shocks spare so fitted them straight on.
Dont even bother with the kit rear tyres as i found them rubbish. No grip on carpet, bare floor or dirt.So no idea what theyre for.
The front ribs are exellent on varied dirt and astro surface. A lot more forgiving then the stagger ribs i tried so keeping the ribs on.
And my main tip is with the diff. Fit it opposite way round to the instruction manual.In otherwords have the adjustment screw on the spur/pinion side. It stops it undoing itself during the race. I now have ran mine like this for the 3 races ive had the car for and it works brilliantly.
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Old 24-06-2012
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Default Steering posts

Hi, Just a quick tip when assembling your Servo saver on these and Mad rat/monkey kits:

If you're having trouble threading the spring collar onto the top of the steering post, i sit it in the motor screw hole on the motor plate, which supports the lower arm, and allows it to sit perfectly level. It makes it so much easier to screw the collar onto the threads without cross threading it, and will help to stop it flirting to pieces if you are trying to slacken it off, as i find it too stiff at the ansmann recommended setting,( I've never stripped any servo gears in 18 months of racing with my Rat or Monkey.).
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