Mini 8ight new esc and motor

[Wupding]

Bought my mini 8 last year and has since been sat idle until the winter to move indoors.... going to upgrade my servo to the savox as stated in the previous thread.

My question is how does the kv system work compared to the normal 'turn' brushless system work... ie a 5.5t is a lot quicker than a 13.5t

What are my options in buying a new esc and motor? I don't want to start hacking away at my chassis like i have seen in some pics.

I would like something that still falls into the brca regulations so if i decide to run some regionals etc i can do that

Thanks in advance for your help

[Matisse]

simples, more KV = faster motor

however, in these small cars the gearing can make a huge difference, so anything above a 5900kv is probably way too quick!

also, if you go for a larger can motor, with a 1/10th size spindle, then a 3900kv will be super fast and more than enough.

best bets are to go with the ezrun/hobbywing sensorless 30/60amp esc, great value for money and most of the top micro drivers run them.

motor wise, 28mm diameter is pretty much as big as a motor the mini8 can take, whilst still being legal. although the stock motor is pretty good@ 4500kv.

best bet is to get on the micro forum http://www.uk-microrc.co.uk/forum/ and scan through the threads there.

[Dombrasky]

+1 on the hobbywing\ezrun setup, as matisse mentions the std motor is
plenty fast enough on a17\ 18 tooth pinion
you would have to mill out the chassis to get a 28mm can motor in
B.R.C.A rules quote
"Any brushed or brushless motor may be used as long as the can width is no wider than 29mm"
and there is no esc limit

[racingben]

My advice would be to stay with the kit motor. You can buy heatsinks from the states that keep the motor much stronger over a race length. Gear the motor up to 18t pinion for a big track with the smallest spur. I have run up to 20 tooth but that was outside on a pretty big astro track.

The only motor that makes a significant speed difference in my opinion is the carisma motors (same can size but 5800 and 6500kv) that the factory drivers use. These aren't commercially available but seem to have a much better balance of power / durability than the small can (20mm) 1/18 motors. I've tried a smaller can motor and without a cooling fan you'll fry it pretty quickly!

Personally I'd wait for carisma / losi to sell a more powerful version of the 24mm can motor. That's what I'm doing (and stirring things up about the motors occasionally on uk-microrc :-))

Something I've tried and am hoping will make the biggest difference at this weekends national is to try and remove the slop from the suspension. I've always found the car to be inconsistent when landing from jumps and on bumpy sections.

I have used an old tamiya eurocup trick (thanks Ian foxwell- blast from the past!) of putting superglue on the suspension shafts and running them in and out of the wishbones until the glue starts to stiffen. Remove the shaft and let the glue on it and the wishbone set. Do this to all hinge pins and the rear hubs. Reassemble the car when glue dry and use some oil on the shafts to keep movement free.

For me this has left me with a car with free moving suspension but virtually no movement. So far I've only run it at one club night but I found the car to be much more consistent.

Hope that helps :-)

no micro regulars I'm not stirring again with the motor comments.

[racingben]

My advice would be to stay with the kit motor. You can buy heatsinks from the states that keep the motor much stronger over a race length. Gear the motor up to 18t pinion for a big track with the smallest spur. I have run up to 20 tooth but that was outside on a pretty big astro track.

The only motor that makes a significant speed difference in my opinion is the carisma motors (same can size but 5800 and 6500kv) that the factory drivers use. These aren't commercially available but seem to have a much better balance of power / durability than the small can (20mm) 1/18 motors. I've tried a smaller can motor and without a cooling fan you'll fry it pretty quickly!

Personally I'd wait for carisma / losi to sell a more powerful version of the 24mm can motor. That's what I'm doing (and stirring things up about the motors occasionally on uk-microrc :-))

Something I've tried and am hoping will make the biggest difference at this weekends national is to try and remove the slop from the suspension. I've always found the car to be inconsistent when landing from jumps and on bumpy sections.

I have used an old tamiya eurocup trick (thanks Ian foxwell- blast from the past!) of putting superglue on the suspension shafts and running them in and out of the wishbones until the glue starts to stiffen. Remove the shaft and let the glue on it and the wishbone set. Do this to all hinge pins and the rear hubs. Reassemble the car when glue dry and use some oil on the shafts to keep movement free.

For me this has left me with a car with free moving suspension but virtually no movement. So far I've only run it at one club night but I found the car to be much more consistent.

Hope that helps :-)

no micro regulars I'm not stirring again with the motor comments.

[b4rac3r]

The kit motor is plenty good enuff and as have been said alredy get your gearing right and you don't need anything else...... I run 18t / 60t on the kit esc and thats plenty fast enuff for me on the national tracks we run on..... Get yourself an ezrun esc to control your punch etc as most people do