22 2.0 gearbox binding !!!!!

[stegger]

Setting my car up for it's first run on Sunday and I've noticed a bind in the gearbox.
If I remove from the chassis it's o.k but as soon as I put it back in it binds
up again
Outdrives aren't fouling, so I am a bit confused. Anybody had this issue ?

[Mufler]

Will gearbox fits correctly onto chassis ? Maybe try loose bit screws from bottom...

[stegger]

If you loosen the screws off yes it stops the bind but as soon as you even finger tighten it binds !!!!

[PaulUpton]

Check you have used the right length screws for mid motor (assuming it is) think putting longer ones in off rear motor build causes this

[stegger]

Hi Paul, no I've tried different length screws to see if it was that. It is in mid motor form. I've tightened up the rear bottom screws and the upper screws, all ok no bind. As soon as I tighten up the front bottom ones it binds !!!!

[racingdwarf]

Maybe doing it up to tight, I do mine up then back half to one full turn, its a habit left from my B4 days. I have always found transmissions on 2wds will bind if you cram all the screws up as tight as you can. does seem strange as the front screws mouldings are outside the transmission, only things I could think of looking at mine are drive cups fouling wishbones (It's a rude thing to ask but are the wishbones the correct sides?) or something not wright with the anti squat shims and plastic inserts that the screws go through

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Could be a good call from Dave regarding the anti-squat shims - or specifically the insert in the front wishbone block. Don't forget that not only does the insert have to match the squat shim, both must be either HRC or LRC else you might introduce an angle into the transmission that could cause the mouldings to distort slightly.

I also back off the long screws that go through the motor plate as that can cause some unevenness.

Hope you get it sorted.

[stegger]

Should the insert in the block have a "T" ie i'm using the 2T insert with the 2 notch anti squat shim. It does free off when I undo the front screws. Arms are on right way and outdrives aren't fouling on wishbones.

[racingdwarf]

Not sure on the T marking, but the plastic insert Part No TLR234009 may be worth checking as in rear motor format the book shows no markings just a plain insert, but with mid motor the insert matches the shim being used so 2.5 shim with matching 2.5 insert, 3 shim 3 insert etc etc, without digging through my parts bags down in the shed I can't remember what comes in the bag. As the last 3 kits I have built I have gone straight to the mid motor section of the book so I honestly couldn't remember what parts are shoved aside unused.
The book shows no T marking in any of the diagrams but a T is mentioned in the parts list at the back.

I know I have a load of shims with the T marks down in the shed, makes me think they are for rear motored 22s as I have had 4x 22s and all but 1 has been mid motor which would explain the amount of shims I have all over the place. Its a bit confusing in the book as all the shims and inserts are under the same TLR234009 part No

I'm sure the 2.0 only comes with the LRC option in the kit so I don't think you will be able to mix HRC and LRC up if the car is built from the box

Is the car a new 22.0 kit or are you upgrading a 22 to a 2.0? as this could cause issues

[stegger]

Dave, it's a New 22 2.0 not an upgraded 22. It's strange this because I've built 2 original 22s and a 22 SCT with no problems at all and tightened them down with no bind like this ! Gearbox out of the car no problems very free. I'll give it a run and see if it frees up
Thanks for everyone's input.