TLR 22-4 MODS

[tyreman]

1. Rear camber link - takes away the need for roll bars and stops the rear rolling over mid corner
2. Rear shocks on the front - put more weight over the rear axle making it better over the bumps
3. 22 2.0 rear end - makes the car wider closer to the legal limit as with std hubs the car is very narrow
4. Shortie lipo conversion - sheds up to 80 grams of weight
5. 10deg castor blocks - moved 2mm further forward makes the car better into corners
6. Raising the knuckle arm 2mm - keeps the front end flatter and stops it diving into corners
7. Associated/Durango springs - more progressive than TLR items
8. New cab forward shell - helps with initial steering
9. Centre diff - I can see it working on slippery tracks but not on our high grip tracks, as rather than your front or rear diff feeling a little gritty it would be the centre one that goes (much bigger job to rebuild)

Hope this helps rather than people saying do it it's free.

[discostu]

Your point 6 is this where you cut the steering hub and move up or down with a 2mm spacer

[dMITIj]

Originally Posted by tyreman

1. Rear camber link - takes away the need for roll bars and stops the rear rolling over mid corner
2. Rear shocks on the front - put more weight over the rear axle making it better over the bumps
3. 22 2.0 rear end - makes the car wider closer to the legal limit as with std hubs the car is very narrow
4. Shortie lipo conversion - sheds up to 80 grams of weight
5. 10deg castor blocks - moved 2mm further forward makes the car better into corners
6. Raising the knuckle arm 2mm - keeps the front end flatter and stops it diving into corners
7. Associated/Durango springs - more progressive than TLR items
8. New cab forward shell - helps with initial steering
9. Centre diff - I can see it working on slippery tracks but not on our high grip tracks, as rather than your front or rear diff feeling a little gritty it would be the centre one that goes (much bigger job to rebuild)

Hope this helps rather than people saying do it it's free.

you have trid the Center diff?:
http://www.rcshox.com/tlr-22-4-cente...onversion-kit/

[simonrhart]

Originally Posted by tyreman

1. Rear camber link - takes away the need for roll bars and stops the rear rolling over mid corner
2. Rear shocks on the front - put more weight over the rear axle making it better over the bumps
3. 22 2.0 rear end - makes the car wider closer to the legal limit as with std hubs the car is very narrow
4. Shortie lipo conversion - sheds up to 80 grams of weight
5. 10deg castor blocks - moved 2mm further forward makes the car better into corners
6. Raising the knuckle arm 2mm - keeps the front end flatter and stops it diving into corners
7. Associated/Durango springs - more progressive than TLR items
8. New cab forward shell - helps with initial steering
9. Centre diff - I can see it working on slippery tracks but not on our high grip tracks, as rather than your front or rear diff feeling a little gritty it would be the centre one that goes (much bigger job to rebuild)

Hope this helps rather than people saying do it it's free.

I too have associated springs and the cab forward body. I bought the associated springs because I wanted a stiffer front end (running purple on the front) to take away that go-kart feel - similar to Losi black but I can't say they are any better than TLR springs.

I also run the cab forward body - again I don't know whether it's better than the stock body but it looks better. Everything I have done to the car, I am loving it now. In the wet and dry.

I likely won't go for wider rear hubs as this will give more understeer.

One thing this car has taught me is you need to learn how to set the thing up, it just doesn't work out of the box, but once you get it setup, it performs really well.

Cheers
Simon

[MaxBaker]

Originally Posted by JohnM

I'd say shocks forward was a bigger and better change then the 2wd rear end, esp as its free to do, only takes 5 mins to do.

On a side note, anyone got a centre diff yet, and what do you think of it?

Thats settled it for me then. Shall me making the change for the weekend cheers

[lomar15]

What is the camber link mod? And any pictures of it?
Thanks Bob

[dMITIj]

Originally Posted by simonrhart

I too have associated springs and the cab forward body. I bought the associated springs because I wanted a stiffer front end (running purple on the front) to take away that go-kart feel - similar to Losi black but I can't say they are any better than TLR springs.

I also run the cab forward body - again I don't know whether it's better than the stock body but it looks better. Everything I have done to the car, I am loving it now. In the wet and dry.

I likely won't go for wider rear hubs as this will give more understeer.

One thing this car has taught me is you need to learn how to set the thing up, it just doesn't work out of the box, but once you get it setup, it performs really well.

Cheers
Simon

Hi Simon and others.

Could you upload your setup in the setup thread? so we can get this awake again

[simonrhart]

Originally Posted by dMITIj

Hi Simon and others.

Could you upload your setup in the setup thread? so we can get this awake again

I have done this. See my setup sheet here: https://simonpublic.blob.core.window...tember2014.pdf

[lomar15]

I'm planning on picking one of these up on a black Friday sale. Want to setup for high grip carpet. Want to plan what mods to do right away. Any suggestions will be appreciated

Thanks Bob

[Dr Fly]

Ok so i tried as many of the changes as i could at a club day last night. ANd i am still not really sure what is happening.

Heat 1: i went out with my stock setup (shorty battery, rest pretty much standard) fastest lap: 12.85

Heat 2: swapped to the 10 degree caster blocks,
The car felt a little bit more aggressive, it would cut into the corners a bit quicker, but i felt like i had to nurse/fight the car around as I usually tend to set my cars up so they feel safe, lap times were improved though. Fastest lap: 12.54


Heat 3: fitted the 22 2.0 hubs, drive shafts and hexes (with the small spacer that comes with the drive shafts) and mounted the shocks on the front.
popped a drive shaft in lap one

Heat 4: fitted the 22 2.0 wishbones.
The car did feel like i could push it a lot harder with this setup. But i think the biggest telling point is that i managed to drive for an entire 5 minutes without making a mistake (or popping a drive shaft ). Slightly disapointed that the lap times didnt improve! Fastest lap 12.52

Final
popped a drive shaft on lap 2. Marshal fixed it, so then i went on a mission to destroy my fastest lap time. fastest lap: 12.32

Summary
I am pretty divided if the changes made that much difference for me personally (for my driving style), I do like the idea that the 22 2.0 back end makes the car wider, so i will probably stick with it, that's if i can actually solve the drive shafts popping out (do others run the entire back end with the wishbones?). ANy suggestions welcome, i tried shoving an extra spacer on the inside of the hub, but then i couldn't get the drive pin in.

I might try swapping the 10 and 15 degree hubs one more time just to get a feel for the difference. I still need to do a lot of playing, i run two many cars to really appreciate the subtle changes that its probably making.

But on paper, the hubs made the biggest difference in lap time, but it just made the car a bit scarier to drive. the rear end made little change in lap times, but the car did feel a little more planted, and crucially, less mistakes.

[tyreman]

Originally Posted by Dr Fly

Ok so i tried as many of the changes as i could at a club day last night. ANd i am still not really sure what is happening.

Heat 1: i went out with my stock setup (shorty battery, rest pretty much standard) fastest lap: 12.85

Heat 2: swapped to the 10 degree caster blocks,
The car felt a little bit more aggressive, it would cut into the corners a bit quicker, but i felt like i had to nurse/fight the car around as I usually tend to set my cars up so they feel safe, lap times were improved though. Fastest lap: 12.54


Heat 3: fitted the 22 2.0 hubs, drive shafts and hexes (with the small spacer that comes with the drive shafts) and mounted the shocks on the front.
popped a drive shaft in lap one

Heat 4: fitted the 22 2.0 wishbones.
The car did feel like i could push it a lot harder with this setup. But i think the biggest telling point is that i managed to drive for an entire 5 minutes without making a mistake (or popping a drive shaft ). Slightly disapointed that the lap times didnt improve! Fastest lap 12.52

Final
popped a drive shaft on lap 2. Marshal fixed it, so then i went on a mission to destroy my fastest lap time. fastest lap: 12.32

Summary
I am pretty divided if the changes made that much difference for me personally (for my driving style), I do like the idea that the 22 2.0 back end makes the car wider, so i will probably stick with it, that's if i can actually solve the drive shafts popping out (do others run the entire back end with the wishbones?). ANy suggestions welcome, i tried shoving an extra spacer on the inside of the hub, but then i couldn't get the drive pin in.

I might try swapping the 10 and 15 degree hubs one more time just to get a feel for the difference. I still need to do a lot of playing, i run two many cars to really appreciate the subtle changes that its probably making.

But on paper, the hubs made the biggest difference in lap time, but it just made the car a bit scarier to drive. the rear end made little change in lap times, but the car did feel a little more planted, and crucially, less mistakes.

I don't know of anyone that runs the 22 2.0 rear wishbone, with popping drive shafts out do you run any limiters inside your rear shocks? I run 22 rear shock shafts as they are 2mm shorter and 2mm internal washer.

[JohnM]

Originally Posted by Dr Fly

Ok so i tried as many of the changes as i could at a club day last night. ANd i am still not really sure what is happening.

Heat 1: i went out with my stock setup (shorty battery, rest pretty much standard) fastest lap: 12.85

Heat 2: swapped to the 10 degree caster blocks,
The car felt a little bit more aggressive, it would cut into the corners a bit quicker, but i felt like i had to nurse/fight the car around as I usually tend to set my cars up so they feel safe, lap times were improved though. Fastest lap: 12.54


Heat 3: fitted the 22 2.0 hubs, drive shafts and hexes (with the small spacer that comes with the drive shafts) and mounted the shocks on the front.
popped a drive shaft in lap one

Heat 4: fitted the 22 2.0 wishbones.
The car did feel like i could push it a lot harder with this setup. But i think the biggest telling point is that i managed to drive for an entire 5 minutes without making a mistake (or popping a drive shaft ). Slightly disapointed that the lap times didnt improve! Fastest lap 12.52

Final
popped a drive shaft on lap 2. Marshal fixed it, so then i went on a mission to destroy my fastest lap time. fastest lap: 12.32

Summary
I am pretty divided if the changes made that much difference for me personally (for my driving style), I do like the idea that the 22 2.0 back end makes the car wider, so i will probably stick with it, that's if i can actually solve the drive shafts popping out (do others run the entire back end with the wishbones?). ANy suggestions welcome, i tried shoving an extra spacer on the inside of the hub, but then i couldn't get the drive pin in.

I might try swapping the 10 and 15 degree hubs one more time just to get a feel for the difference. I still need to do a lot of playing, i run two many cars to really appreciate the subtle changes that its probably making.

But on paper, the hubs made the biggest difference in lap time, but it just made the car a bit scarier to drive. the rear end made little change in lap times, but the car did feel a little more planted, and crucially, less mistakes.

Are you using the top hat spacer that goes between the hub and the hex on the 22? You don't need to use that as it stops you spacing the driveshaft from the inside of the hub. Use spacers on the inside and the shaft shouldn't pop out, I haven't got any spacers in my shocks & the shaft stays in ok.

If you don't have the alloy 22 hexes, use the 22-4 ones as they have a little step on the inside that stops the bearings binding when you tighten the wheels up.

[Dr Fly]

Originally Posted by JohnM

Are you using the top hat spacer that goes between the hub and the hex on the 22? You don't need to use that as it stops you spacing the driveshaft from the inside of the hub. Use spacers on the inside and the shaft shouldn't pop out, I haven't got any spacers in my shocks & the shaft stays in ok.

If you don't have the alloy 22 hexes, use the 22-4 ones as they have a little step on the inside that stops the bearings binding when you tighten the wheels up.

I am using the alloy 22 hexes, and the spacer that comes with the 22 2.0 drive shafts, its about 1mm, but i havent measured it. Not running any drop limiters in the shocks. The 22-4 rear wishbones made the driveshaft pop a couple of times, the 2wd wishbones are a bit shorter, so it was a bit better, but still managed to pop out. will have to do a bit more tinkering.