Some CR2 mods

[rcjunky]

I assum you've tried PL holeshots? ever tried traction compound?

[area52]

Originally Posted by rcjunky

I assum you've tried PL holeshots? ever tried traction compound?

Negative on traction compound as forbidden.

[sfry61]

:



Does anyone make this battery bar/ posts, or am i going to have to make it in my shed

[V-Rossi]

Jonathan of Atomic Carbon makes these, just send him a pm (OldTimer on this forum).

You then have 2 choices: mount two links on the holes drilled in the battery bar, or drill an extra hole in between the pre-drilled holes and use 1 link. I did the latter.

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by V-Rossi

2) Front wheelbase mod:

This is a very simple one. The idea is to extend the wheelbase of the car on its front end. So dremel about 1,5mm off the front side of the hub (1,5mm is about the thickness of a wheelbase spacer at the back) and move the hubs forward. This will increase the total wheelbase, but that isn't the only goal.
When placing your front and rear hubs forward (so front long and rear medium wheelbase) you don't make the car any longer, but maintain the wheelbase. The only difference is that more weight is shifted to the rear end of the car. Simply moving the rear hub forward does the same thing, but the CR2 is already a short car, so with this mod you don't make it any shorter and you'll still be able to get more weight to the back. Here is an example:






The effect? I used both front and rear long wheelbase, this made the car a lot more stable. It gives you a little less steering, but most people will hardly notice it. And while not being really faster over a single lap, it does make it a lot easier to be fast on a consistent base. Again we are all using it (with great effect, the CR2s had 1st, 5th and 7th place at the National) as it makes the car a lot easier and more fun to drive.

I did this mod and ran it for a few months and it was an improvement. But found a much better method of extending the wheelbase, without upsetting the weight balance at the rear, and without offsetting the steering.



This is a XX4 wishbone flipped with XX4 upright and hub. You gain about 8mm in wheelbase. You have to ad a shock spacer and small shim to fit the wishbone to the XXX pivot - as below. I used a cut down rear hinge pin, but you could use a shock shaft or suitable hinge pin from another car.



I've been using this setup on a tight high grip carpet track with the uprights reversed - giving 10 degrees of castor. You can drive it like a 4wd!

All of the pics of the car and more of the mod are here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/irishwil...hiteWinter2010#

Can anyone who tries it let us all know what you think?

[ian h]

I saw the car run with this mod and it was awesome!

[blade]

saw this car also in action looked the business so yea will be giving this mod a try as soon as my wishbones come in

[ian h]

Originally Posted by blade

saw this car also in action looked the business so yea will be giving this mod a try as soon as my wishbones come in

Use cat SX2 wishbones.

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by ian h

Use cat SX2 wishbones.

You can use CAT SX2 wishbones on the XX4, but as the wishbone is flipped for this mod, there is nowhere for the shock to mount as the webbing is different - you are restricted to using the standard Losi XX4 wishbone (or graphite one). You can use schumacher 7.5 degree alloy uprights though.... hint hint

[snige]

what front axels are you using?

[Gareth Jones]

I am about to ask the dumb question:

What does this latest modification do to the handling of the car?

Regards
Gareth

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by snige

what front axels are you using?

Xx4 hexes, wheel bearings and plastic driveshaft yoke. You'll need xx4 front wheels too

[tony12795]

I guess what people are ultimately tiring to achieve is to lengthen the wheel base....

With the help of AC we have been testing a LWB chassis over the last few months, I am sure if people ask or PM he will produce a chassis and side pods for you. The chassis is 6mm longer and is lengthened around the battery area, don’t worry, the electrics and servo still fit as normal but you get an option to move the battery forward by 2mm if you want too.

What the LWB chassis does is smooth the steering out and gives you more corner speed, that’s why the new Losi 22 is so long!!

Tony

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by tony12795

What the LWB chassis does is smooth the steering out and gives you more corner speed, that’s why the new Losi 22 is so long!!

Spot on

[nevens]

Originally Posted by V-Rossi

Secondly, the link going from the top of the gearbox to the battery brace is an anti-flex link. This way you don't need the brass gearbox brace anymore. Only difference is that we made a small plate on top of the gearbox with a hole in the middle, to have the link more in the center line of the car instead of having to choose one of the (non-centered) holes.

What's the length of the rod?

[V-Rossi]

I don't have my CR2 anymore, so can't measure it. But it depends on the height of your battery pack: a higher pack will need a shorter link and vice versa.
But it is a camber link, so not too hard to adjust
I think I used a Losi front camber link, with 1 normal ball cup and 1 8ight steering ball cup. Use as much of the 8ight cups on your car as possible, they are perfect!