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#1
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threadlock trouble
hi all
having a bit of trouble getting alot of the screws out of my 501 after threadlocking them in, just wondering if anybody know a way of softening the stuff up cheers |
#2
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I use it every day at work, and the only real way is.........heat, but I dont think you will want to use that lol!!
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#3
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I was just going to say, heat, just heat up the allow, you can even try nipping the screw a little more to break the stiction.
Also, only use a low tack threadlock.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#4
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You may want to try heating the screw gently with a soldering iron to try and break the threadlocks grip. If you end up ruining the head of the screw then you will have to dremel a slot across the head and use a flat blade screw driver to get it out.
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Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff! |
#5
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The rep just gave me this stuff the other day, I put it on a high tensile M24 bolt, torqued it up, left to cure for 20 mins, but the 'hydraulic spanner' on it and the bolt sheared before unscrewing, apparently you need to got it to 500 deg c before it will let go, mental, but my argument with the rep was, nuts and bolts arent permanent fastners, they are meant to allow removal, if you want a permanent fixing, weld. The rep left with his tail between his legs, no sales, and minus 5 bottles of sample LMAO!!
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#6
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well, it depends on the application. There are some circumstances that welding is impracticable, and the logistics of the fastener location means that a nut and bolt is required, but once fitted, isn't something you would need to remove, so that sort of threadlock is good, but as you know, there are different types of threadlock about.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#7
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Sorry, but the first bit of your post is wrong-ish, in Engineering world (not models here) a nut and bolt is not a permanent fastening, and should never been used as one, for a multitude of reasons. You put a nut and bolt or stud and nut etc where you will need to remove in future for 'some reason'
Anyway, I would recommend for use in RC cars Loctite Blue, you can even get it in a no-mess 'pritt stick' format!! It facilitates easy removal when required. I only reccommend on past experience of non RC applications (before I get shot down) but have never had a screw come loose on the durango lol!
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#8
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it is and it isn't, I worked on aeroplanes for 14 years, and mostly bolts where never used, but on occaision, they were.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#9
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thats what I use, get it off fleabay
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
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Quote:
Aeroplanes are a law to their own (as you will know better than me) due to the stresses exerted in very, very strange ways, the £***,000 per year designers will know better still than both of us lol!! Anyway, good luck getting your screws out dude, and in future, loctite blue...the future!
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#11
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Loctite do many of products for many of different things, The common ones for threads are loc 222, 243, 270 starting from low strenth, med, high. normally when using the loc270 high strenth you will have to heat it up depending on the size of the bolt.
But you find most people use way to much on a thread than they should do.. as model cars screws are very small sizes loc222 would be more than suitable. just use some common sense covering a m3 x 20 csk socket screw with loctite will be alot harder to undo than a m16 x 50 ht bolt, and maybe you should use a higher grade loctite for bigger bolts...... |
#12
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Quote:
defo a vote for the blue prit stick type!
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#13
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Loctite dont 'do' anything, Henkel 'do' however, Loctite is just a brand name.
Just find some blue threadlock, and that should be fine, Associated do one, just get that
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#14
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Your local Cromwell tools or Brammer should have it in stock
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#15
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hmm, Please dont tell me you work for them lol?
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#16
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No, but I spend a hell of a lot of money with them
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#17
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ahh right, Being rude asking.. where do you work? based?
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#18
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Engineering Manager, North East
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B4, BJ4WE (x2!!) |
#19
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You could try this it usually works,get your posidrive screwdriver or allen driver insert it into the head of the bolt and then give the driver a harsh tap with an hammer this usually breaks the seal on the threadlock
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Schumacher cat/couger sv X factory Dms racing Associated Phat bodies Paul (2 polybutlers) Hoggard |
#20
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interesting, ive just built a 501 and had exactly the same problem, thought i was doing the right thing putting a bit of threadlock on because its metal screws into alloy, but the stuff i got bulks out lots inside the thread and is very hard to undo, heat must help, i dunked the alloy piece into boiling water and was able to start undoing some, but some still wouldnt come out
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