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  #121  
Old 02-05-2008
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Originally Posted by DaveG28 View Post
The higher the grip of the track the better the 0 degree hubs work, on grass it was very good, on dirt and in the wet I've struggled.

with the shocks, I can't tell the drill bits from each other, but I'm hoping I'll be ok with roughly 1.3mm rear holes (whichever Losi drill is closest to that I used) and one size smaller at the front. No spares so screwed if their too big!

Jimmy, I used Tamiya shocks at the first regional, you'd need to change spacers etc on the top mount to make it work right (I had them at an angle and bent three shock shafts!) but its much better than pre-fixed Aero ones!
Dave, 1.3mm is close to a 55 hole (slightly smaller i think) so it won't be far off. I just feel it works better with 56 (1.2mmish).

This is a table showing you the drill size dimensions in inches
http://www.gcrossett.com/zipzaps/tech/drill_bits.htm
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  #122  
Old 02-05-2008
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Haven't got access to my instructions at the moment so have a quick question:

With the spacers you put on the pistons above the ball cups, is it the thinner ones to the front?
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  #123  
Old 02-05-2008
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If you mean the external spacers on the shock shaft then yes it is the thinner at the front, i actually run 2 O rings on the rear end instead of the large spacer
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  #124  
Old 02-05-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveG28 View Post
Haven't got access to my instructions at the moment so have a quick question:

With the spacers you put on the pistons above the ball cups, is it the thinner ones to the front?
Yes thats how you run it standard.

But If you put the longer type ballcup at the rear you don't need a spacer, maybe just use the very thin one to let the spring retainer sit correctly.

Also, on the front if you choose to run the one-way you may ned another spacer and/or dremel the end of the driveshaft to stop it fouling at full suspension travel.

hope that helps
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  #125  
Old 02-05-2008
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Yeah that helps thanks, useful tip too as I need to change some ball cups and don't think spares are available yet? This gives me some options with them!
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  #126  
Old 02-05-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveG28 View Post
Yeah that helps thanks, useful tip too as I need to change some ball cups and don't think spares are available yet? This gives me some options with them!
I'm not 100% sure but i thought these were available now? have you checked with the raceplace?

If you do run the turnbuckle type ballstud i'd recommend cutting it down to the same length as the normal ballcup and spacer together, otherwise you will have too much droop.
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  #127  
Old 02-05-2008
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Cheers Kev, last checked with them about a week ago, I'll try again!

Dave
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  #128  
Old 24-05-2008
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Default servos?

what servos do u all use?
I tried to use my hitec coreless ultra speed hs-965mg its way to big. im looking for something with high speed, good torque, and if possible metal gears. thanx n advance.
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  #129  
Old 24-05-2008
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Hi Redscott, I use the KO 2413ICS and i really get on with it, so much so i put one in my 2wd too.

Some use the Futaba short stack servo (not sure of the number) which seems pretty good also
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  #130  
Old 24-05-2008
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The Futaba low-profile servo model number is S9551. I don't think this has been out too long so you may still be able to purchase its predecessor, the S9550, as well (although I guess the specification isn't as good for this one).

KO have got some new low profile services coming soon (the 2511 & 2512; click here), but don't appear to have released any specifications yet so I'm not sure how these compare to the 2413.

HTH.
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  #131  
Old 06-06-2008
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Has anyone managed to set the slipper without the "slipper tool" without bending the screw?

When I tried the screw bent, I am building another tomorrow and would like to not bend the damn thing this time!
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  #132  
Old 06-06-2008
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Other than not having a proper tool for the nut, no - no problems. I just jammed a small screw driver in there and tightened it until it felt about right.
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