KF front wishbones reversed?

[shaungooner]

Could someone please explain the process to achieve this and what resulting changes this produces in the car's handling

thanks

[jayst]

remove the c hubs and turn them round , so the screwholes are at the front .it moves the wheels further forward .

[shaungooner]

thanks for that, i'll give it a go

how does it affect the handling?

[gazhillAE]

Originally Posted by shaungooner

thanks for that, i'll give it a go

how does it affect the handling?

Easier to drive not as twitchy

[shaungooner]

thanks Gareth, I think this will certainly help me

I was also looking at some setups and saw that on occasion people are setting the rear hinge pin in the low position at the rear and the high position at the front

is this possible with the kit or do you need U4160 rear alloy block conversion set?

and if it is possible what affect does it have?

thanks for the responses guys, I'm a bit of a setup novice so all suggestions appreciated

[CARB]

Hi Shaun
I drive a SV2 at mendip, what kind of set up are you trying to get are you going to be at mendip on the 29jan?
regards
Neale

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by CARB

Hi Shaun
I drive a SV2 at mendip, what kind of set up are you trying to get are you going to be at mendip on the 29jan?
regards
Neale

He is running kf as thread title?

[mark christopher]

What do you actually want the car to do that its not?

[shaungooner]

Hey Neale

Can't do Mendip this week but I will be there pretty soon and am looking for a setup that will work there

So far I'm thinking of reversing front wishbones as mentioned above and I may get U4171 to allow running shocks on rear as I think that will help with Mendip bumps

I'l probably change pistons and oil too

I also race indoors at Caldicot on Fridays and need to tweak things a little for that too but I'm pretty happy with the setup I ran at their Christmas race on December 8th, would just like 4 degree rear toe but U4160 is out of stock and would prefer to change it inboard not outboard if possible so 1 degree hubs not an option

I struggled getting the power down on exit at Caldi as not enough traction coming out of the corners, dropped diff oil a little which did improve things slightly but I think 4 degrees will help a lot with that and the KF has so much steering that I don't think it will hurt mid-field performance

I have to say that I am very impressed with he car and I'm sure that once I have found a setup that works for me it will be great!

I'm open to any suggestions though as I love tweaking things to see what results!!

[CARB]

That is a pity missing the 29, but hope you make the next one and be very interested to see a KF at mendip.

The amount of pack the standard set up has is where we have found the biggest change for mendip, I will tell you about when you get to Mendip next time.

Using the reversed long front wishbones is a good change if you like a softer turn in mid corner, as it changes the Ackerman slightly, the correct way round is good too and is worth trying first.

[jonathan may]

might have mine by the weekend if build will try and run it a mendip on 29th

[wrighty]

Originally Posted by shaungooner

thanks Gareth, I think this will certainly help me

I was also looking at some setups and saw that on occasion people are setting the rear hinge pin in the low position at the rear and the high position at the front

is this possible with the kit or do you need U4160 rear alloy block conversion set?

and if it is possible what affect does it have?

thanks for the responses guys, I'm a bit of a setup novice so all suggestions appreciated

Yes you will need the alloy block to run front high rear low it allows finer control over anti squat and toe

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by wrighty

Yes you will need the alloy block to run front high rear low it allows finer control over anti squat and toe

You can run high front low rear on the plastic kit blocks

[Mossy]

Originally Posted by mark christopher

You can run high front low rear on the plastic kit blocks

You can't - the anti squat and toe will be all wrong as the blocks are set to run on the same level holes.

[juergen_jl]

I think, that the moulded plastic blocks are coming with 2° of anti-squat.
As far as i know, the there are 4mm distance between the "low" and the "high" hole, If you use the moulded blocks "front high" and "rear low", you will have:
2mm (from the blocks) and 4mm (screwholes) = 6mm difference = 7,8° anti squat. I think, this is "quite a lot"

So you need the alloy parts for doing this set up at the rear end.

I have another question, but I will open another thread for that.

(I got my KF and the K! AERO for chrismas!!)