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Old 16-05-2013
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Default Building a K1...

How long (on average) does it take to build the K1?

I ordered one last sunday that wont be arriving till tomorrow (strange as i payed for next day delivery!)

I am looking to find out how easy it is to build and anything that i should be careful of in the build, i have in the past built many other makes like Losi, Tamiya, Kyosho, Mardave and Marui (who remembers those!) but never a Shcumacher.

Booked in to race it on Sunday too!!

Cheers,

Steve.
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Old 16-05-2013
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Nice and easy build. The electro install might take a while though.

Pay attention to diff fences on pulley (glue is an option), ceramic balls so you got to set them tight or they will slip (my front was loose at first meeting), just follow the manual for that.
Use threadlock, especially on lower bulkeads/chassis and steering parts need some attention (didn't use enough TL on mine and got to screw it back full on the first heats).

Motor mesh, motor should be leveled with chassis plate and TL on adjustment screws. Not too tight, prefer a looser mesh and watch out both motor mounting screw and mesh screws on every run at first.
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Old 16-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtom View Post
Pay attention to diff fences on pulley (glue is an option)
Ah........so this is the trick to make them stay onto the diff.
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Old 16-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair View Post
Ah........so this is the trick to make them stay onto the diff.
I've not glued mine, and to honest you shouldn't need to. Just build it as per the manual, making sure things like the diff fences are on the right way, thrust plates have different size centre holes and the circlip for the diff is the right way up.
All of this is detailed in the instructions though.
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Old 16-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyreman View Post
I've not glued mine, and to honest you shouldn't need to. Just build it as per the manual, making sure things like the diff fences are on the right way, thrust plates have different size centre holes and the circlip for the diff is the right way up.
All of this is detailed in the instructions though.
It was built per spec to the manual.
However, the fences came off on both of mine, and it was only on the sides where there was extra space in the bulkhead.
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Old 16-05-2013
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thanks for the info

I had read about the fences being a bit of an issue for some so will be sure to pay attention to that!
I have also read the manual already (online) and noticed the circlip is sided, i will be sure to use TL on all screws going into aluminium too.

I always set my motor by eye with about .5 - 1mm of backlash, usually run the motor up and listen to it, i like it to be fairly quiet and have never had issues with stripping teeth (yet! lol)

Thanks again and any further info/tips welcome

Cheers,

Steve.
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Old 16-05-2013
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make sure you fit the top brace the right way round ie hole for the belt to be adjusted
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Old 16-05-2013
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I didn't have to glue diff fences on my 4 diffs and didn't have anny issue but some did hence why I write it down.

I would pay attention to gear mesh and check screws as motor getting loose either sidewise and lengthwise. Also front diff setting.
You wouldn't want an issue in either case at first meeting.
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Old 17-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyreman View Post
I've not glued mine, and to honest you shouldn't need to. Just build it as per the manual, making sure things like the diff fences are on the right way, thrust plates have different size centre holes and the circlip for the diff is the right way up.
All of this is detailed in the instructions though.
Sure its outer size....
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Old 18-05-2013
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Well that's it all built and ready to go

Took about 12 hours over two days to finish.

Looking forward to racing it for the first time at the second round of the SORC tomorrow

Thanks again for all your tips, all of them were used during the build

Dunno if this is common but there were two bolts missing from one of the rear arm bags other than that it was a real easy one to do.

Cheers,

Steve.
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