Cat SX/SX2 setup change frequency

[/tobys]

I'm researching which 4wd car to get and considering an SX2. As this isn't out yet, I am assuming that the setups will be similar to the SX (despite big bores on the SX2).

There seems to be a wide range of settings and options that can be used, certainly it appears as though there are more compared to B44 and BMax4.

So, my question to SX owners (past and present) is: Once you have got a base setup, how much do you need to deviate/tweak between different tracks?

I think the SX2 looks really good (I drove a Cat 2000 EC for a single meeting about 12 years ago and it was one of the best 4wd I had ever driven) but I am concerned about "chasing the setup" at every track I visit - which I don't want to have to do. Naturally, I understand small tweaks are required on every car when visiting different tracks and I can get my head around changing springs/oils/piston, but factoring in wishbone spacing, anti-squat, castor, one-way, chassis material etc would concern me. Looking at the setups (posted on the schumacher and the petitrc sites), to an untrained eye there seems to be little similarity/commonality between the them and I would guess it can be easy to lose you way with it?

Anyone care to comment on their experiences? I guess I'm looking for some reassurance that a 90% "base setup" can be achieved which then requires only minor tweaks to achieve the final 10%.

Thanks guys

[bigred5765]

very little needs to be changed from track to track, nice easy car to work on as well,

[David Church]

I don't ever change much. Springs and oil and one way or diff is the changes I make. I run the rear shocks on the rear of the shocktower, for me this transformed the car. It's not for everyone, but for me it was a MEGA difference!!!
Once I got the car where I wanted, it has become the best 4wd car I have ever driven!!! The support that goes with Schumacher also makes owning this car more attractive!!!

[eichkay]

Once i got my car setup i find myself only changing the rear springs or tire choice, i haven't touched any of the other setting once i found a good base.

My setup worked very well on loose hard pack dirt which i mostly run on and also on a astro track and a grass track we recently run.. all i did was stick stiffer springs in the rear and i TQ'd

[/tobys]

thanks for your feedback guys

how do you find acceleration with the belt drivetrain versus the shaft driven alternatives? do you need to run a hotter motor to compensate?

[David Church]

I run a 6.5 Speed Passion system, it's plenty fast enough, in fact I tried a 5.5 last week and it was too fast for me

[mikeyscott]

I think it's a very efficient drive train as I run a 7.5, but keep up with the 6.5 boys.

[/tobys]

ok guys, I'm gravitating towards the cat sx2 now

however, I notice it takes stick packs and ideally those with bumps on the bottom (LRP/Nosram etc). I have a Lipo saddle without bumps which I currently use in my B4 (bought saddle coz I thought it would be more flexible!) - is it possible to use this saddle with the cat sx/sx2? I don't really want to have to glue bumps to the bottom of my batteries as this then causes a problem in any other car I want to use them in...

also, how strict is the battery height of 24mm? My lipo is 25mm - will this catch the belt?

cheers guys

[nick hull]

it wont catch the belt it will hit the front pully as this is the lowest point.

and very strict..

[/tobys]

so my 25mm lipo won't fit?

[Cruise]

I see a possibility of spacing the chassis 1mm lower but someone got to try.

Cruise

[MattW]

Toby, my car is currently in bits, so i measured from chassis to front pully. I got 25.1mm, so i'd say that is a little close for comfort to a 25mm lipo to me. It might fit, but i wouldn't want to guarantee.

[stefke]

I can help you here : I recently fitted the new Nosram 5000mA saddle lipo's (wanted to keep my options open when the SV arrives). They're supposed to be 25.1mm high and indeed : the fitment under the front pulley was a problem. I had to raise the front bulkheads by 1mm. Now they fit (barely, but good enough). If you're worried : I didn't feel any change in my setup so I'm guessing it won't effect performance.

The Nosrams have the humps so they fit perfectly in the cutouts in the chassis. I you don't have the humps : just get the Northy or AC lipo locator. To connect the saddles, I simply took an NiMH battery bar, cut it to length and soldered two corraly connectors to it to replace the saddle wire.

[/tobys]

thanks again for all your feedback

anyone care to comment on stefke's suggestion?

[MattW]

I guess he's one of the few to have tried it, so fair play and it's good to see his feedback as it's all that really counts.

If it were me, i'll be honest and say i'd buy a LiPo that i knew would rather than make another lipo fit the car. That's just me though.

[stefke]

Originally Posted by MattW

I guess he's one of the few to have tried it, so fair play and it's good to see his feedback as it's all that really counts.

If it were me, i'll be honest and say i'd buy a LiPo that i knew would rather than make another lipo fit the car. That's just me though.

to be honest, I was put into a situation that forced me to try it.
Before I ordered the new nosrams, I measured the space i had under the belt. It was a tight fit, but it seemed OK. I only forgot to measure the space under the front pulley and there I was

On the other hand, since EFRA allowed the 25mm Lipo's, I expect many manufacturers will use the 25mm casings. So it's always good to know there is a sollution that won't effect the car much.