SV weight?

[sunbeam]

Hi,

I want to add a plate under my battery. How did I get the battery strap to fit after adding a plate? I can use spacers for the posts, maybe a spacer under the top front bulkhead bolts, but the rear end is a problem with the strap bar?

Maybe a pic or two would help from a car that has weight added

Thanks

Rob

[Swiss]

When I run weight under my cougar battery, I cut a piece of led so it sat inside the bumps of the battery, (one piece)..

Hope that makes sense and helps.

P

[sunbeam]

My saddle packs (in the space of a stick) are flat bottomed and take up the whole height. I can see no way of fitting an under pack weight without lifting the strap some how??

[Whiskers]

Either remove the posts all together or add washers under them to raise them up. Simples

[sunbeam]

What about the pivot pins?

[Whiskers]

Oh yeah, I forgot about them. I don't think there is a way you can do it then. Sorry

[tyreman]

Rudebits do a under lipo weight with the cut outs in, and weight's 90g.

[sunbeam]

My saddle packs (in the space of a stick) are flat bottomed and take up the whole height. There is no extra space under my lipo's for any thickness of anything. I could get space if I packed up the posts, but I would still need to find a way of lifting the holes in the battery strap end pins. I might be able to force two spacers under the top bolts of the front bulkhead to lift the pin, but the rear pin has no way of lifting. Maybe if I mealt the arms that come for the gearbox ???

Seems a little drastic.


Anyway, I think I've solved the problem now. I cut a sheet of 0.028" (.72mm) brass to match the chassis. It weighs 138g. Seems people are using the under lipo @ 90g + rear bar @ 30g and under servo @ 25g. So I have a little extra to add using the little wheel weights. This puts the weight as low as it can get and should not upset the balance of the car. If I need a few extra grams, I have a clear chassis on top to place a bit here or there. The brass is very thin, so it can be trapped between the chassis and under tray. It is held in place with just the two rear gearbox C/S bolts. This will still allow the chassis to flex as the front of the plate is only held in place with the undertray. Hope it works !!!

[Rat Monkey]

I fitted weight to my SV using roofing lead and carpet tape to hold it on the underside of the chassis - not ideal but it's still there and works well

[sunbeam]

How much did you use, weight wise ?

[josh.jenner1]

hey sunbeam that looks great how did you go about cutting the brass? i to have been looking at under lipo weights but running a vampire ive no room at all under it, thats an awesome idea you've come up with mate

[sunbeam]

Thanks

I took off the under tray and gearbox, layed the chassis on the brass and scratched around it. Then just cut it out with a slitting cutter on my dremel, lots of light slits until it goes through. Only took about half an hour, including fileing, sanding and polishing the edges. The rear of the undertray was a bugger. I had to use a mini blow torch and LIGHTLY play it over the end of the tray until it went soft enough to bend to get back under the rear bumper. If you don't bend it, the tray will 'bow' when the bumper is put back on.

0.023" adds 138g, and sheet brass is cheapish when bought from www.metalsmith.co.uk

[josh.jenner1]

ive had a look and seen its cheap, i guess cutting it just after the 2 screws it doesnt need bending? how it work for anyway?

[sunbeam]

I would have though you could get away with not bending the tray if the brass stopped just after the screws. I was after every last bit of weight

The front is fine as long as you stop the brass where I have, as the kick in the chassis starts right there and does not affect the tray.

[josh.jenner1]

have you used anything to hold the front to the chassis???
hows your buggy working with this as weight im just about 2 buy a sheet

[sunbeam]

I only made it today, so have not raced it Friday is the day

It should work as it's 138g right accross the chassis. This leaves a little extra weight to be fine tuned on top of the chassis, 10-20g front or rear where it may need it? But the point is I have loads of spare space now.

I left the front simply trapped by the under tray. This still lets the chassis flex if it needs to. I thought that if I bolted it front and rear it would act like a laminated plate and stiffen the chassis. Just trapped at the front is fine.

[josh.jenner1]

thats what i thought weight hid under the chassis rather than bits here and there, yeah just bolted at the rear should do the trick,
sod it im buying a sheet your a blooming genius mate,
let me know how you get on after you use it

[sunbeam]

No, not a genius, just desperate not to have to buy lower lipo's !!

[josh.jenner1]

i know mate lipos arnt cheap, cost of new lipos to sheet of brass no brainer

[sunbeam]

Hi,

I can now return my thoughts on the weight matter. I have never got more than 18 laps on any track layed at our club. Last night I got 20 and FTD in round 3. I would have got 20 again, but I was hit from behind under braking on the first lap. The marshal could not untangle us until the others cars had put in one lap. That race I got 19. So it would seem that weight has helped.

I did do some other changes to the shocks and ride height to compensate for the extra weight.

But the weight did help. (and a huge amount of concentration not to crash and some good luck helped also)

Rob.