D4 Tips

[ben27111973]

Hey all

a couple of building tips for you and things to watch.

dremel flat spots in the cvd's so the pins dont work themselves loose and also watch the diff bolts. they seem to be very fragile and we have broken two whilst adjusting the diffs and also had two failures mid race on the weekend.

problem has been solved by replacing them with a B4 diff bolt and nut.

apart from that the car is awesome. I had a BJ and if its possible the D4 steers even better...

[grindog]

Hi, any initial tips for this car? Mine should be here on thursday. I know that the diff screws are suspect and the drive pins need slotting but how is kit setup on grass/ astro etc?

Also, do the associated springs fit on to this car?

thanks

[PTRU]

Hi
the diff screws are a problem but if you are careful when you tighten them they are fine do not do this quickly take your time.
Do not over tighten them. tighten the screw right up then back the screw off about a 1/4 of a turn to 3/8.
The slipper is very important you need to get the slipper to give before the diff this helps the diff screw.
I had Tonys set on the astro when dry at Kiddy at 3/8 to 1/2 a turn this should be ok make sure you locktite the screw as it will come undone.
There are some set up sheets on the HB web site will be putting more up as we go along. Sorry but this is work in progress as we test/race race at each venue.

Other than that the car is good sorry the results are not showing how good the car is at present.

Phill T

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by grindog

Hi, any initial tips for this car? Mine should be here on thursday. I know that the diff screws are suspect and the drive pins need slotting but how is kit setup on grass/ astro etc?

Also, do the associated springs fit on to this car?

thanks

no associated springs do not fit. losi does though.

[joffacn]

Hi

My car is built up to the point of the shocks. No paint on the body yet.

Diff Bolts:
I suggest to clean the bolt thread then screw into the nut and out before assembling in the diff.
Also squeese the spring in pliers before assembly.
Do not overtighten the diff bolt before backing off 1/4 turn. As long as the diff spur does not rotate as decribed in the check procedure.
It will need checking after running anyway.

Good build so far.

Any tips or points to watch out for with the shocks and setup?
I will be running on loose dusty tracks.

Jeff

[ben27111973]

Jeff

I would start with 35wt in the front, 30wt in the rear. blacks all round. #2 in front #3 in rear.

ride height as per manual. no sway bay. hole shots all round or bigshots in red on the rear.

this works good here in aus on loose surfaces.

ben

[KyoshoK]

Originally Posted by ben27111973

problem has been solved by replacing them with a B4 diff bolt and nut....

hi i not familiar with the B4, could you be kind enough to give me the part number i need? thank you

[Q_man]

Ben

Did you pickup your D4 locally?

Looking for one and considering where to purchase, here or OS.

Are parts available here in Australia yet?

Thanks

Wayne

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by Q_man

Ben

Did you pickup your D4 locally?

Looking for one and considering where to purchase, here or OS.

Are parts available here in Australia yet?

Thanks

Wayne

Hey wayne

got mine here from frontline hobbies in newcastle. 0249291140 speak to craig and he will sort you out. they are around $539 from memory. they have all the parts in stock and the prices are really good.

cheers
Ben

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by KyoshoK

hi i not familiar with the B4, could you be kind enough to give me the part number i need? thank you

seem to have fixed the diff bolt issue. have gone to the HB Ti diff bolt and also been playing with the adjustment on the diffs, they seem very critical in their adjustment. other cars I have used tend to run the diffs close to locked up.

the D4 diffs run a lot looser than that. if you set them like the instructions show you they will be fine. I did this but then used my own in car test and determined they were too loose. turns out they were fine, not sure why but they do not slip at the same point other diffs will.

diff bolts have been fine for the last three meetings.

ben

[joffacn]

HI

Diff: Just tight enough not to slip when holding the outdrives - as per the manual.
What adjustments to suit track conditions? What are the indicators and effects of too tight or too loose?

Slipper: Is the instruction to:
1. tighten all the way.
2. loosen 1 full turn plus 1/4 turn OR is it to loosen ONE only 1/4 turn?

The slipper should SLIP when the wheels are held and the spur turned with some reasonable force - correct?

How much slip is advisable?
Should the slipper "slip" for a metre or so when accelerating hard?
Should this amount of slip be adjusted for the amount of grip on each type of surface?
That is on a low grip surface I should loosen the slipper to get some slip on hard acceleration rather than get a lot of wheel spin?


Thanks Jeff

[AndyM]

Does anyone know if losi shocks will go on the D4?
thanks

[Q_man]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for the advice, talked to Craig. Great to talk to someone who knows his stuff.

Just waiting on stock.

Thanks

Wayne

[telboy]

Just looking throught the instructions.

It says to use some 'rubber cement' on the hinge pin blocks.
Any advice on what to use as I have never used the stuff before, or shall I just use something else.?

[Little Mac]

Originally Posted by telboy

Just looking throught the instructions.

It says to use some 'rubber cement' on the hinge pin blocks.
Any advice on what to use as I have never used the stuff before, or shall I just use something else.?

We used PVA which is a sort of copydex glue that holds the rubber bits in place but you can still get them out if you need to.

Cam

[gramey]

Little Mac, You told me to use Evostick! I hope I can get them out when I need to.............

ben27111973, I've only run mine for 1 meeting, next one coming up this Sunday, but on reading the bit about diff bolts before I got and assembled mine I used Tamiya 25mm diff bolts with no problems. Are the Ti ones listed as an option or do you have a part number?

joffacn, put a little bearing oil on your slipper bolt and run it through the nut before you assamble the slipper as I found that when I thought the slipper was tight it wasn't. The bolt hit a bit of swarf in the thread of the nut, car crawled forward with the slipper spinning. Cleaned the nut through, re-tightened the bolt and presto...

[GRIFF55]

In place of the rubber cement, i used a product for motocross grips called
RENTHAL Grip Glue. Used it when i used to race, and it stays supple.

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by telboy

Just looking throught the instructions.

It says to use some 'rubber cement' on the hinge pin blocks.
Any advice on what to use as I have never used the stuff before, or shall I just use something else.?

done mine without tel, they carnt get out by the way they fit, and they are a tight fit in the hole once the pin is in.

[telboy]

thank you mr christopher, I was thinking of doing them without, cos like you say, they're not going anywhere.

I was just looking through the instructions thats all, and wondering why it was needed.

[dan_kitty]

does "rubber cement" mean glue for sticking rubber, ie tyre glue

or does it mean a type of liquid rubber formula?