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  #1  
Old 23-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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Default advice on bd7 range

Im getting back into racing and I quite like the bd7.

Please can anyone please who has one give me some advice on what there like? Ease to set up? Mods needed to make it handle better? Springs and shock set up? Graphite and alloy parts?

Cheers
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  #2  
Old 24-11-2015
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Check out MB models as they have a new kit out in December,the model out now doesn't need many options,black shock cap rubber,blue shock shaft seal rubbers,the plastic shock bit to change the single rubber to be able to run 2 rubbers,black diff seal rubbers,non are essential but just help,lots of options available like ti shafts and shock ball too,again not needed but just add to a nice car,the 2.5 rear toe brace is a good one to have to just free up the rear if (like me) your not to hot on doing it through setup,plus the front front brace 4.2 it makes the front wider,so less twitch,
The car itself is a work of art and a joy to work on,people say the setup window isn't as big as others,but that might be different with the new one.
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  #3  
Old 24-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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Cheers reg.
I'm looking at getting a second hand one really as I've go alot to buy. I like the way it looks but if they are hard to set up it may change my mind. If the basic are the same on each car set up wise then it shouldn't be too bad.

I'm unsure aswell what springs to buy.

Not alot of people like to talk about them on here so I wondering if that's a bad thing or not.

Any advice is welcome.
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  #4  
Old 24-11-2015
jimjav jimjav is offline
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I have been running BD7 for the last 2 years and really you only need 4 things,

- Springs, box ones are almost perfect for carpet, but for outdoors you will need something harder, HPI silvers are like the standard setup.
- Shock and diff oil. For shocks 400-450-500 cSt will cover 95% of shock setups. For rear diff, 2k, 3k, 5k and 7k
- You might need 44.2 FF toe bar and the 45.7 RR toe bar. Firs one give some arm sweep in the front, the second one reduce toe in to 2.5 on the rear.
- Some shims for roll centre changes, 0.5mm, 1mm size will be enough.

Bodies is something that you will need in any car as they change a lot how it handles, on indoor I really like PF Mazda 6 speed and outdoors PF LTCR or Montech Nazda 3

Best regards
Javier
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Old 24-11-2015
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Not many people talk about TC on here,you also find 90% of people only go online to complain 😄 so not much chat is a good thing,

You will get a good second hand one at a good price but they don't come up on here very often,saying that I'd keep your eyes peeled as the new one is out soon,shocks you can drill a small hole in the shock cap to make the shocks more consistent and maybe easier to build the same,
I think in the uk the Xray is more popular than the yokomo,and is probably an easier car to drive when the setup isn't quite spot on,
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Old 24-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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Cheers reg and jim for your advise

Why do people put solid front diff in them?

Would anyone mind me messaging them as I've got a lot more to learn
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  #7  
Old 24-11-2015
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The top TC cars are now designed around the spool,how ever,if you race on wooden or very low grip then a fron gear diff is better,some one can give you the technical reason as I don't know why they work,I just know they do 😆

Happy for you to PM me buddy,I'll help if I can,but more people who see this thread might get people chatting and helping you out 👍🏼
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Old 25-11-2015
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Cheers reg

The more people the merrier.

I have seen that alot of people like the double joint driveshaft? Are these front and rear? What difference do they make?

People say that the graphite wishbones make a difference? Do you know what they do?

Are all they alloy parts like hubs and wishbones just for show?

Thanks
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  #9  
Old 25-11-2015
jimjav jimjav is offline
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Morning Scott

Front diff only on really low grip or in some cases on really high traction. On low traction spool will make your car turn less. Sometimes on high traction on really high speed direction changes you can roll the car and in that moment you need a front diff with a really hard silicon, at least 1 million. The worst thing of a front diff is weight, so in stock classes is a massive difference, that is why they are really not common.

Graphite arms, you feel the car more, but in the winter they are more brittle. In my case during 2 years using them no breaks. The first day I used them I noticed that the car was easier to drive on a long parabolic full throttle and was more reactive in a technical in field.

Double joints, always in the front. When using a spool in the front if you use a lot of steering and you use throttle with the wheels on the air you will see a vibration on the external wheel. This vibration will be reduced a lot if you use dcj in the front.

Alloy parts tend to bend in a crash, plastic ones tend to break. If you bend a part and it is only a bit you will not see it but you might feel your car does not work properly, it is tweaked and the reason is the aluminium part is bent. Yes you can finish the run but your car will never the same. Beside that they weight more and are more expensive…. So I do not see any pro and a lot of cons.

Cheers
Javier
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  #10  
Old 25-11-2015
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Yeah sorry I forgot about the front drive shafts as an option,they really do help smooth out the steering and not many run without them,the BD7 comes with graphite arms and hubs so I would stick with them,don't bother with the Ali hubs as people don't run them as they ain't a good option,I would say if your going second hand and they are a good racer then all the options will be in the package,a good option is ti camber links and ti and steel screw kit to get the waight down but again not essential,but maybe in a second hand kit 👍🏼
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  #11  
Old 25-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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I have sent you a message you
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  #12  
Old 25-11-2015
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Well I race this car, and order the 16 edition, makes interesting reading and I have learnt something. The only thing I have broken is a double jointed drive shaft, but I did have a big shunt into a track maker.
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Old 25-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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Hi Tom

I've sent you a message

Cheers
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  #14  
Old 25-11-2015
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So I won't be bothering with aluminium parts then. Where do I get the titanium screws from then?
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  #15  
Old 25-11-2015
tiny tom tiny tom is offline
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The only upgrade I have put on the car is titanium-coated main gear shaft, I have got the fmc and the short arm conversion kit.
Front:
I am using 6 degree front caster blocks, which carms down the turn in with 1mm spacer. -1.5 front camber with 40wht oil using pink or green Spring.
Rear:
-1 rear camber with 40wht oil using blue to black Spring
Droop in the front is 9 with 8 in the rear, kit roll bars. And I run long track rods which I find easy to drive, ride height is in front is 5mm and the rear is 5.5mm

I am not the best a setting this cars up yet, but I am learning all the time. Using setups from top racers didn't work for me. Any information I will try to help with
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Old 25-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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What is the fmc?

What does the titanium shaft do. What difference it make.

Where do I get all of these blocks and shims from
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  #17  
Old 25-11-2015
tiny tom tiny tom is offline
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Fmc moves the motor forward, only put it in to see what it does, keeps the rear tyres a bit cooler. But using it this weekend for the second time.
The upgrade part, I think the drive chain works a bit better
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  #18  
Old 26-11-2015
Scott_83 Scott_83 is offline
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How far forward does it move the motor then. Do you have any pictures. I think ive seen that kit on ebay. Your have to let me know what you think of it.

Is that a chain instead of the belt?

Do you have to use different castor blocks indoors to outdoors.
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  #19  
Old 26-11-2015
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If your in the uk then MB models �� I might have said before ��
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Last edited by reg; 26-11-2015 at 05:12 PM.
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  #20  
Old 26-11-2015
tiny tom tiny tom is offline
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If I remember right? It moves the motor 10mm, it makes the rear tyres work less. And forgot, black bladders which I find the shock is more consistent.
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