D4 Inner Hinge Pins > Chassis

[tak racing]

Hi All,

I bought my D4 second hand and the chassis is worn where the front hinge pins rest against, one side is getting quite bad, what do you guys suggest apart from replacing the chassis due to cost?

Also I noticed the B44 now has one end of the a arm blocked off to stop this happening, is hot bodies going to do something similar?

Thanks

Jim

[jim76]

maybe put a blob of epoxy or something where the pin rests to build it back up and stop any movement in the pin?

with regards any new parts, Adam Skelding is your man. Although any redesign of the wishbones would need a slightly shorter pin as well.

[dan_kitty]

hi, im having this problem as well which is causing lots of slop movement in the wishbones.

just wondering if someones come up with any alternative mods since this post was started

cheers

[GRIFF55]

All i used to do with mine was to put glue on the edge of the chassis where the pin hits. Could you tap and put a grub screw in the bulkhead?(stop the pin sliding?)

[dan_kitty]

good thinking with the screw idea, didnt thing of that. just applied some apoxy resin so once thats set will give it a try.

cheers andy, will see you at cobra tomorrow if you are still going

[PTRU]

I have all ways found the front rubber bush was our problem with play if you replace these reguarly it will be much better, by the way the bush wears from the outside due to crashing or high loading.

[bjcaldwe]

I did like griff and tapped 2 wholes in the front bulkhead and use grub screws to hold the arm in place. I like this method better, incase you have to change an arm.

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by bjcaldwe

I did like griff and tapped 2 wholes in the front bulkhead and use grub screws to hold the arm in place. I like this method better, incase you have to change an arm.

the pin floats on rubber bushes in the front bulkhead! i drilled a 2.5mm hole in the wishbone next to the pin and cut a short m3 bolt to make a pin securing screw such as associated etc

[jim76]

did such a large diameter screw in the wishbone not weaken it a touch Mark? The associated ones have a bit more plastic usually moulded around the area to take the screw.
It's a good idea, i'd just be worried about weakness. Maybe better with a smaller screw?

[mark christopher]

held up to crash testing at york today, looking at another mod adam told me about today, post it if i can do it ok

[GRIFF55]

Ah, i forgot they mount in rubber. Just an idea.. The screw in the wishbone idea was mentioned to me today. That Seems the best solution!!

[bjcaldwe]

My mod has worked fine, but the other works too.

[billtc3]

This is a tip that might look weird, but I have tried it on my d4 with great results. Buy this

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHWN4&P=7

Now, what were the chances that the hinge pins from an american 2wd buggy, would work in the d4...? Well, I own an evader buggy, so I tried the hinge pins. The inner ones fit the d4 just fine! You can check the dimmensions in the towerhobbies site, for yourself.

The rear ones won't bend, like the hb original suspension shafts.

The front ones are a little longer, so here's what you do. Drill the 3mm hole in the front rubber mounts of the front hinge pins all the way through (like in the middle rubber mounts of the front hinge pins). Insert them in the other side of the front suspension brace (from the front, not from the rear of the brace as the instructions say). Insert the duratrax front hinge pins from the front of the suspension brace (you drilled the hole of the rubber mounts all the way through) and secure them with e-clips (the duratrax pins use e-clips, unlike the hb ones)! Now the hinge pins can't float through the rubber mounts, back to the chassis, because they are stopped by the e-clips.

If that's not explained clearly, I could add some photos.

[SlobbaTech]

I tried using a set screw in the rear of the arm, this was a pain and not the best thing to do as you had to cut the pins shorter if you bent one. Now I drilled a hole in the chassis to put a steel screw into that is very close to the hinge pin. Now the pin can only move very little until it hits the screw head and if you break/bend something, you use stock parts and do not need to modify anything else. Next time I'll try to move the screw a bit closer to the arm.

[Adam Skelding]

Originally Posted by SlobbaTech

I tried using a set screw in the rear of the arm, this was a pain and not the best thing to do as you had to cut the pins shorter if you bent one. Now I drilled a hole in the chassis to put a steel screw into that is very close to the hinge pin. Now the pin can only move very little until it hits the screw head and if you break/bend something, you use stock parts and do not need to modify anything else. Next time I'll try to move the screw a bit closer to the arm.

Hey Man,

That's ACE