Go Back   oOple.com Forums > Car Talk > Team Durango

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 24-09-2014
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default 210 on power push help please

HI wise ones
I tested my 210 today with a bit of a different setup to try and help with on power push that I have suffered with.

I still have it and its really annoying so any help is appreciated.

First this is the track so small carpet with a lot of 180° etc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgRPOORoRv8

We are also using slicks with addative

My setup
210 V1 with +11rdrp chassis
under servo weight

Front end
2x1.1+2x1.5 40tlr yellow spring
Middle tower out arm
3 trailing with 4mm shims
upper outer rdrp c hubs @approx stock i think + 3mm inside under ball
6mm bumpsteer
25°

Rear end
2x1.2+2x1.6 27.5tlr light blue
middle tower inside arm
2hole in on hub 1mm under inside under ball
0 toe in insert which makes 3.5?
asquat tresrey 1.5
short wheel base

RM3
LRP 7.5
Slipper pretty hard
gear diff with black grease
low punch, no timing/boost
81/22

I ran it last year even with mm4 as well and had a pretty generic setup as well but still had on power push

Any tips before I go back to the generic setup again.

Thanks
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"

Last edited by OneKiwi; 24-09-2014 at 07:58 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 24-09-2014
dwp102 dwp102 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 290
Default

try 35 degrees caster brass bulkhead and dark blue front springs

the weight stops it under steering, the caster compensates for the reduced turn cos of the extra weight, and the blue front springs makes it easier to drive

if you are still lacking steering lengthen the wheel base

and if you are still lacking steering move the rear shocks out one hole at the bottom

Last edited by Col; 24-09-2014 at 08:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 24-09-2014
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

Will try it thanks
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 24-09-2014
neallewis's Avatar
neallewis neallewis is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 3,368
Default

Try limiting your front droop so the front end raises less on power.
__________________
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 24-09-2014
rcjunky's Avatar
rcjunky rcjunky is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 401
Default

I'd start with a big less droop, then a bit of nose weight, then a slightly stiffer rear spring, I wouldn't make wholesale changes yet
__________________
Andrew Burghgraef
Great Hobbies
selling rf dex210 pivot blocks, pm me for details
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 25-09-2014
av4625 av4625 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Omagh
Posts: 521
Default

personally, i would run the black or dark green front spring, probably run MM4, i wouldnt add weight as it will help on power but will make the car lazier and on a track that is as tight as that you need it to be twitchy'er, limit front droop, 30* castor, i struggled on power with 25* castor,

On the v1 car i always liked outside on the tower, and outside on the arm, although it doesnt seem it would help on power, it gives the closest effect to the new straight arms on the v2

1.6*3 pistons all round 50wt front 30'ish rear or 1.6*2 front 35wt 1.7*2 rear 27.5wt work well!
__________________
Team Durango - DNX8 - DEX8 - DEX410v5 - DEX210F - DEX210v3 - Novarossi - Beta - Futaba - Hudy - Orion
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 25-09-2014
Origineelreclamebord's Avatar
Origineelreclamebord Origineelreclamebord is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 1,571
Default

Considering the tight track and the fact there's enough bite:

- Get rid of the +11, run the stock alu chassis instead - the small corners require a short chassis for agility
- Start out using 50g of weight at the front end (under servo, above servo, brass bulkhead, etc). With more weight up front, the amount of front axle load is higher, so the increase and decrease in wheel load from acceleration and deceleration should have less impact.
- Use mid to long wheelbase shimming on the rear arms - this is purely to reduce the rear motor overhang. That, or run mid-motor on medium to short rear arm/wheelbase shimming.
- Remove some rear droop (so when the wheels just touch the ground, the chassis is nearly level) - this will make the rear end looser both on and off-power.
- Put the rear shocks more upright on the tower - it will make the rear end lean in less.
- Use 3 degrees anti-squat - It helps to keep tighter lines on-power (by preventing the rear end from building up as much rear axle load).
__________________


3D Printing Upgrade Parts - FF210 Buggy

Last edited by Origineelreclamebord; 25-09-2014 at 05:15 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 25-09-2014
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

Thanks next try is sunday or wednesday ill test a few things

I do remember having great steering when I tried the car when it was released and that was on the stock chassis.
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 28-09-2014
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

Well I tried it today and it was much better thanks all
I think a big difference was going back to the stock chassis as our track is super tight.
Ill look at getting to another larger track and trying the same setup as well as using the +11 there.

NO the other thing I have been soing is using the 410 as a 2wd... WOW I don't have on power push with that. The arse end wants to drive around the front end.

All I need to do is steer and go easy on the gas, helped a lot going from the 6.5 I had to a 8.5

The rear over rotates a lot. Im now thinking about weighing it down a little or which end will a rollbar help
I do like it and I really think that it will be a great car to race but I wouldn't mind calming it down a little

Any tips for this one?
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 28-09-2014
micholix's Avatar
micholix micholix is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 318
Default

Hi OneKiwi,

I think also a 410 2wd could work very well, espacially on carpet tracks!
But when i was at the Eos last round here in austria, i saw jorns car a bit closer and i think, there was a bit more front kick up, than on the 4wd 410?
And i think, when he was changing the battery, i saw, that he had a shorty layout, with the motor in the back, like the tc2, but i'm not sure!?
And he was usin alot of waight in the back, too.

When you look at the xb4 and the xb4 2wd chassis, there is also more kick up at the 2wd.

May this help a bit?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image.jpg (191.4 KB, 39 views)
__________________
Greetings from Austria!

My cars:
CatK2/CougarSVR/BossCat/Dex410v3/Dex410v5/Dex210/Dex210F/Yokomo yz-10‘94/Yokomo yz-10‘95/

Last edited by micholix; 28-09-2014 at 07:39 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 29-09-2014
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

That does look like more kick in the front.

Would been interesting to see some under the body shots but I know they won't be circulating.

Id really like to have the rear chassis that wide, have a little more room for the electrics and airflow.

Would be cool if they came out with something like that. I know they need to test etc and they aren't a huge company but they are juggling a lot of balls.
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-10-2014
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

Ive gone back to the 210 as its just a bit more lively.
The track got cleaned so its not as gripy as it was last time I drove. I still have a bit of on power puch but Ill work through the thoughts given here thanks.

I also have a little less turn in than I want but presume the lacking grip is doing that as its a tight turn at the end of the straight.

I did go from 4 trailing +4mm to 3 trailing +4mm and it was better.

What are people using in their diffs? Atm I have black grease but im diffing out a lot. Im looking at going up but doing so won't really help the on power push will it?

Im thinking about the 210v2 as well, whos driven that and is it a big step up?
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"

Last edited by OneKiwi; 12-10-2014 at 07:17 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 14-10-2014
Dino_D Dino_D is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 40
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi View Post
Ive gone back to the 210 as its just a bit more lively.
The track got cleaned so its not as gripy as it was last time I drove. I still have a bit of on power puch but Ill work through the thoughts given here thanks.

I also have a little less turn in than I want but presume the lacking grip is doing that as its a tight turn at the end of the straight.

I did go from 4 trailing +4mm to 3 trailing +4mm and it was better.

What are people using in their diffs? Atm I have black grease but im diffing out a lot. Im looking at going up but doing so won't really help the on power push will it?

Im thinking about the 210v2 as well, whos driven that and is it a big step up?
Gear diff? 2k
If you want more steering. Shorten wheelbase, rear hubs forward. 25 degree caster (use 0 insert in the caster block) 3 antisquat.
Less front droop, max rear droop. Add weight to the front behind the servo. Battery full forward.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 14-10-2014
av4625 av4625 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Omagh
Posts: 521
Default

25 degree caster wont help on power
__________________
Team Durango - DNX8 - DEX8 - DEX410v5 - DEX210F - DEX210v3 - Novarossi - Beta - Futaba - Hudy - Orion
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com