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  #2041  
Old 03-11-2011
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Ive sent my drawings and am getting my first proto made for the rear gearbox. I will post more info soon.
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  #2042  
Old 05-11-2011
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Ok here goes, the belts that are being sold on ebay are only good for five five minute races before the rear belt obliterates. We do need to find a supplier that can make an exact copy. Other than that my car goes rather well and just needs a bit of work on the front end and its done.
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  #2043  
Old 05-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Ok here goes, the belts that are being sold on ebay are only good for five five minute races before the rear belt obliterates.
do you mean the tough racing ones ?

i purchased 4 of each of them if you do

and is that running on a 5.5, a

do you personaly think they would last longer with say a 10.5 or 17.5 or even a brushed
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  #2044  
Old 05-11-2011
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do you mean the tough racing ones ?

i purchased 4 of each of them if you do

and is that running on a 5.5, a

do you personaly think they would last longer with say a 10.5 or 17.5 or even a brushed
Tough racing, yes. I think the problem lies with my zx slipper and is probably why i got thru two belts in five batt packs. Make sure you set the slipper correctly so you have a fraction of slip. I need to address the slipper as we need the same spring adjuster as the hyper clutch or like the b4 where the adjustment sticks and doesnt get looser.

Id say a 7.5 or even 8 should be good but a 5 only once we have come up with a resolution for a new slipper.
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  #2045  
Old 06-11-2011
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Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Ok here goes, the belts that are being sold on ebay are only good for five five minute races before the rear belt obliterates. We do need to find a supplier that can make an exact copy. Other than that my car goes rather well and just needs a bit of work on the front end and its done.
How does it obliterates?? do you have a picture of it?
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  #2046  
Old 06-11-2011
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How does it obliterates?? do you have a picture of it?
No pictures but the belt basically broke the bonds and turned into threads so rather dissapointed. I had the slipper running to and then when i tightend it slightly the car which runs silently other than the motor (you dont hear the gear mesh either) and sounded like something was binding, sounded like ujs but was the belt shredding into fluff.
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  #2047  
Old 06-11-2011
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Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
No pictures but the belt basically broke the bonds and turned into threads so rather dissapointed. I had the slipper running to and then when i tightend it slightly the car which runs silently other than the motor (you dont hear the gear mesh either) and sounded like something was binding, sounded like ujs but was the belt shredding into fluff.
I suspect that the teeth are still good because it's brand new. The only thing that will cost this breakage is that the cords (threads) inside the belt is nylon. If its kevlar or steel, I think it will stand the force.
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  #2048  
Old 07-11-2011
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I suspect that the teeth are still good because it's brand new. The only thing that will cost this breakage is that the cords (threads) inside the belt is nylon. If its kevlar or steel, I think it will stand the force.
Yes i agree. I also changed the bearings in the gearbox just to be on the safe side.
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  #2049  
Old 07-11-2011
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Default Front gear box

I have locked down the design for the front gear box.

It looks not as strong, but I have ran it through a FEA program, it is actually very strong after it's is mounted and squared on the chassis and front tower mount.

I am going to get it quoted and try to make a sample.



BTW, it does looks like the head of a cow.

Bearings will need to be change to flanged bearings.
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  #2050  
Old 07-11-2011
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Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I have locked down the design for the front gear box.

It looks not as strong, but I have ran it through a FEA program, it is actually very strong after it's is mounted and squared on the chassis and front tower mount.

I am going to get it quoted and try to make a sample.



BTW, it does looks like the head of a cow.

Bearings will need to be change to flanged bearings.
Bearings may be an issue, what about a washer with a screw going thru with a lip, so the small washer sits flush against the CF and the lip is logged against the bearing edge stopping it going out? Have a look at the ZX-S manual on the main Japan Kyosho.com and you can see for yourself as thats what I use on my ZX-S.

Looks good, seems that my original cut away the rear and sides of the front gearbox has been picked up and yes would be very strong as the plastic sides are strong on my car.

Hurry up fibrelyte with my cad drawing on jpeg so I can post it as well.
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  #2051  
Old 07-11-2011
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Here it is. This is my first design, I have not yet got around to starting on the rear gearbox mount yet but I already have an idea. There are only two plates on here so the main one with both together has not worked out how it should be but seeing as you can see both plates you can see how the one small item should be
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File Type: jpg zxr cf rear gearbox braces.jpg (5.5 KB, 39 views)
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  #2052  
Old 07-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Bearings may be an issue, what about a washer with a screw going thru with a lip, so the small washer sits flush against the CF and the lip is logged against the bearing edge stopping it going out? Have a look at the ZX-S manual on the main Japan Kyosho.com and you can see for yourself as thats what I use on my ZX-S.

Looks good, seems that my original cut away the rear and sides of the front gearbox has been picked up and yes would be very strong as the plastic sides are strong on my car.

Hurry up fibrelyte with my cad drawing on jpeg so I can post it as well.
At the very end of my post, I stated that the bearings need to be changed to flanged bearings.

The whole gear box (now mount) is designed using a flanged bearing. There will be only 0.2-0.4mm for the diff to move side by side.

I believe this would be an easier way to solve this problem, as less parts on this gear mount, the less cost it will be.
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  #2053  
Old 08-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
At the very end of my post, I stated that the bearings need to be changed to flanged bearings.

The whole gear box (now mount) is designed using a flanged bearing. There will be only 0.2-0.4mm for the diff to move side by side.

I believe this would be an easier way to solve this problem, as less parts on this gear mount, the less cost it will be.
Great idea, didnt really read it properly (Doh!!!) and your idea should resolve a lot of issues doing it that way. Cant wait to see the real thing.

Pity I am no good at 3D cad but intend to get a proto made of mine within a week or two and will post some proper pictures of the made CF gearbox. If you have any input towards this by all means let me know.
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  #2054  
Old 08-11-2011
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Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Great idea, didnt really read it properly (Doh!!!) and your idea should resolve a lot of issues doing it that way. Cant wait to see the real thing.

Pity I am no good at 3D cad but intend to get a proto made of mine within a week or two and will post some proper pictures of the made CF gearbox. If you have any input towards this by all means let me know.
I am guessing you got all your dimensions correct, because on my lazer zx, there is another extra 6-8mm material after the gear box. it's for the shock tower mount.

Either than that, I think you have a good design there, incorporating the lazer zx-s's design.

My original concept was about the same. But omitting the bottom plastic mounting and extend the cf piece all the way to the bottom. and the diff will be held using flanged bearings. After that, 2 aluminum mounting brackets will be used to connect the gear box, the chassis and the rear pivot block.

Spacers! you need to anodizing them blue!!
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  #2055  
Old 08-11-2011
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Welshy,

Do you think it's a good idea to produce the arms with aluminum?

Or is the current plastic set be okay?
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  #2056  
Old 08-11-2011
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OH!! I got a reply for a supplier that can manufacture the small pulley (LA-11) out of aluminum 6061 or 7075.

I might get the 6061 and hard anodize them if they are cheaper than just 7075.

Will update you guys on that later on.
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  #2057  
Old 08-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I have locked down the design for the front gear box.

It looks not as strong, but I have ran it through a FEA program, it is actually very strong after it's is mounted and squared on the chassis and front tower mount.

I am going to get it quoted and try to make a sample.



BTW, it does looks like the head of a cow.

Bearings will need to be change to flanged bearings.

Yes it does ... but a beutiful cow ......


mvh Isobarik
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  #2058  
Old 08-11-2011
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I have actually finish designing the pivot blocks that uses the new lazer zx-5's bushings (LAW32) and the TF-018.



IMO, I believe that rubbing dissimiliar metal together is not a good idea. There will be more wear.

With the use of the delrin bushing (LAW-32), I think it will be more smoother.

I am not sure if they will be popular. If not, I will just produce only a few sets
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  #2059  
Old 08-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I have actually finish designing the pivot blocks that uses the new lazer zx-5's bushings (LAW32) and the TF-018.



IMO, I believe that rubbing dissimiliar metal together is not a good idea. There will be more wear.

With the use of the delrin bushing (LAW-32), I think it will be more smoother.

I am not sure if they will be popular. If not, I will just produce only a few sets
As you know a good through testing first is needed. Great idea. I like it
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  #2060  
Old 08-11-2011
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Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
Welshy,

Do you think it's a good idea to produce the arms with aluminum?

Or is the current plastic set be okay?
Arms, do you mean wishbones? If yes then the current ones LA26 are the strongest you will ever come across (evan harder than the YZ10) and is very very hard to break. I have only snapped one and that was hitting 35mph into a steel pole.
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