TLR 22 Build and Set-ups - Page 3

Chris56 · #41 17-03-2011

Got the chassis built.
How are people doing the electrics? Theres plenty of room for the esc behind the servo but not quite enough for the receiver too (even sideways).

Matt-h · #42 17-03-2011

Has anyone found white stress marks on the lexan shells?

Both kits have the same marks, so doesnt seem a one off

Matt

raymondkerr · #43 17-03-2011

I was surprised to see that the shell is pre cut. I would say mines looks a little rough around the edges. Theres sort of yellowish marks around the edges of the shell where it has been cut, some of the overspray where it looks like scissor marks have been made when cutting round tight areas. Apart from that i think the shell should be ok. Just looks slightly weird coming out of a kit like that.

Chris56 · #44 17-03-2011

Mines a little rough around the edges, but should be ok once painted. That and the protective film on the wrong side of the wing are my only niggles

D20MCK · #45 17-03-2011

The shell has been cut out with a hot wire not scissors

frogger · #46 17-03-2011

Pretty damn good if the only niggles are a shell with a few rough edges!

Chris56 · #47 17-03-2011

Sure thing - theres no obvious weak points in the construction, can't wait to put my 6.5 in it and get it on the track

Matt-h · #48 18-03-2011

ok, peeled a little of the film off and its the film not the body that has the white marks

wrightcs77 · #49 18-03-2011

Can someone post the length from just under the front bumper to the end of the chassis? I have teflon chassis tape and want to know if it is long enough.

Thanks

Buggy Driver · #50 18-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

You get a full set of 4 hole pistons in the kit - 56, 55 and 54 hole and you get a full anti squat shim kit for the Low Roll Centre blocks. The spare parts are in the F-bag in the kit box I believe - although I haven't yet got that far myself

If you choose to run a HRC block, you will need a corresponding HRC squat shim kit (TLR2045)

As for servo saver, I'm sorry but I don't know what other type would fit. You might get a small kimbro under the bulkhead and you might need to trim the width of the top of the servo saver to get enough clearance with the bulkhead under lock - but this is not something we've tried (sorry)

Cheers. What is actually the difference between changing this H/LRC block and altering the roll center with washers under the ball studs?

And you stated a .05 wrench will do the job. Before release a 1.5mm wrench was said to be needed. Would one of them fit better?

Gnarly Old Dog · #51 18-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrightcs77

Can someone post the length from just under the front bumper to the end of the chassis? I have teflon chassis tape and want to know if it is long enough.

Thanks

From the edge of the kick up to the back of the transmission, the chassis measures approx 280mm

Gnarly Old Dog · #52 18-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buggy Driver

Cheers. What is actually the difference between changing this H/LRC block and altering the roll center with washers under the ball studs?

Like I said to Razer, the theory behind it all sometimes goes beyond me - all I know is that it felt nicer to drive and was more consistent. You may be able to achieve a similar roll stiffness by altering the washers on the outer and inner ball studs but I don't know (sorry)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buggy Driver

And you stated a .05 wrench will do the job. Before release a 1.5mm wrench was said to be needed. Would one of them fit better?

The 1.5mm wrench would be for the pinion.
The 0.05 wrench would be used for the small c'sk screw that locates the rear toe block and holds it in-situ before the gearbox screws are tightened down fully.

Both the 1.5 and 0.05 wrenches will do different tasks - you risk damaging the screw if you try to use the wrong sized hex wrench.

Buggy Driver · #53 18-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Like I said to Razer, the theory behind it all sometimes goes beyond me - all I know is that it felt nicer to drive and was more consistent. You may be able to achieve a similar roll stiffness by altering the washers on the outer and inner ball studs but I don't know (sorry)

The 1.5mm wrench would be for the pinion.
The 0.05 wrench would be used for the small c'sk screw that locates the rear toe block and holds it in-situ before the gearbox screws are tightened down fully.

Both the 1.5 and 0.05 wrenches will do different tasks - you risk damaging the screw if you try to use the wrong sized hex wrench.

Okay, thanks.

Delves · #54 18-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by RookieBOB

Losi's front wheels seem to be wide...Have you some tips to fit schum staggered on them?

Hi, the wheels aren't wider. As far as I understand they are exactly the same dimensions as the XXX wheels. I think they look wider because the tyres the car was photo'd with are rather large to start with.

Gnarly Old Dog · #55 18-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by RookieBOB

Losi's front wheels seem to be wide...Have you some tips to fit schum staggered on them?

I've never mounted up a set of staggers but I understand the wheel bead to be the same as the old XXX front wheel.
I tend to run mini spikes onthe front of mine and just cut an outer row off if required. I know Staggers work well on some cars and for some drivers but personally, I've never gotten on well with them myself.

I know the wheel looks wide on lots of the launch promo photos - mainly because of the tyre choice and the fact that the wheel is now slightly convex in profile - but whatever you did before with XXX size front wheels will work for the 22 I'm sure.