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  #341  
Old 08-11-2012
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Originally Posted by NicolasCH View Post
Hi all.
Hi Nick.

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A majority of people use 10.5T modified motors, massive power is not required.
Right you are!

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More importantly, tires are imposed and are not great for carpet, ..
... there is really no time to chase setups...
Then having an X-6 will be a real advantage. Compared to the B4 and other cars, it's less critical to get the set-up exactly right. In the ballpark will do.

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Will there be any point in keeping those hubs and/or the C-hub-shaved-u-brace mods, or should I just use the B44 hubs supplied with the conversion kit?
I'm not even sure the conversion comes with B44 hubs. The full car kit does.
If you liked the C-hub mod on the B4, you'll probably like it on the X-6 as well. It works the same way.


Quote:
...the E Speed camber links, which are unfortunately out of stock - any alternative to running that?
Yes, Use hole '2' on the bulkhead, shave it down about 1.5mm, and use hole 'B' on the hub. There is hardly any difference. If you've got 'short neck' ball studs, those are 1mm lower already. The AE ones are black, the losi ones are shiny.

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3. I was considering the T-Saddle LiPo configuration as the most appropriate. I however currently only have stick packs (heavy 6400mah ones!) and before I buy some saddles (or shorties?), could someone confirm that the T-saddle will bring meaningful advantages over the "standard pack across" configuration? Or I should take it easy and not bother at this stage?
Stick packs work very well. In fact, I find that the T-lipo layout and shorty packs have the weight too central. I feel regular saddle is the best compromise, with stick across a close second. But really, this is a very subtle, 'touchy-feely' kind of set-up adjustment. Takes a good driver to feel the difference. Getting the tires and inserts right is 10 times more important, having springs and damping in the ballpark is next.
If your stick packs are heavy (I use LRP packs, possibly the heaviest out there), you probably won't need to add weight. But if you do, under the ESC is a good place. Aim for between 64.5% and 65% rear weight, I think you'll be close to that already.
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  #342  
Old 08-11-2012
Darren Boyle Darren Boyle is offline
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Hi Nicholas, the set up guru himslef (Elvo) has already responded, so nothing I can really add there to help you, however, not sure where you had been used to looking, but the E-Speed rear hangers are in stock here in the UK and available to purchase through any of the X-Factory UK retialers if you want some. In my opinion they are a very useful set up essential, especially on our type of tracks, Ellis is rarely seen without them.....
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  #343  
Old 08-11-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Elvo,

Many thanks for the great feedback, this is quite helpful. I will try to keep the lower "C" hub on the factory team rear aluminium carriers (although I'm not sure I visualize how it' sgoing to pan out with the instructions to reverse the hubs to keep the camber links straight across), as well as sand the bulkhead to lower the inner ballstud (saw a video from Paul Sinclair doing that). This should pretty much replicate the "shaved U Brace with C hub" B4.1 mod).

Good to hear your comments on the T-saddle configuration. I will stick to... sticks for now, and maybe borrow some saddles to test.

A few additional questions though, if you don't mind:

1. I'm currently using a GHEA 30g brass bulkhead with good success... makes sense keeping that in (instead of weight under the ESC?

2. I understand that all I need to convert my B4.1 FT worlds edition is B4 outdrives and their corresponding bearings; is that correct or are there other recommended parts to procure (sorry it's a bit off topic)?

3. I'm not sure I understand the actual change that the E Speed hanger brings - I suppose it is shortening the link, but in terms of position, is it higher or lower than standard (still wondering how that may work with regards to my shaved u-brace/c hub mod...).

4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6?

5. Opinions on sway bars? I don't run any at the moment, is it recommended or more a nice to have (remember I'm not running minipins, so grip is not massive).

6. Finally, would your "Petit Race 2010" setup be a good starting template, or did you squeeze some improvements since then?

Thanks a lot
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  #344  
Old 08-11-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren Boyle View Post
Hi Nicholas, the set up guru himslef (Elvo) has already responded, so nothing I can really add there to help you, however, not sure where you had been used to looking, but the E-Speed rear hangers are in stock here in the UK and available to purchase through any of the X-Factory UK retialers if you want some. In my opinion they are a very useful set up essential, especially on our type of tracks, Ellis is rarely seen without them.....
Thank you, I didn't check in the right places (or country!). An order will be on the way soon...
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  #345  
Old 08-11-2012
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> 4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6?

I'm no setup expert but that's all I used last year, at least give it a try.
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  #346  
Old 09-11-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Great, thanks.
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  #347  
Old 09-11-2012
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1. I'm currently using a GHEA 30g brass bulkhead with good success... makes sense keeping that in (instead of weight under the ESC?
The GHEA bulkhead has been on and off my car dozens of times, but it hasn't been on in a year or more. It does what it does: it puts weight right up at the nose. Keeps the nose down, but I can't help but feel it slows rotation (yaw) down as well. I know Ellis feels the same way. We both like the bulk of the weight central in the car, in the ESC and battery area.
Besides, AE did a good job on picking the right kind of plastic for the bulkhead.

Quote:
2. I understand that all I need to convert my B4.1 FT worlds edition is B4 outdrives and their corresponding bearings; is that correct or are there other recommended parts to procure (sorry it's a bit off topic)?
I think that's all. The only thing I can think of is: some of the earlier B4.1 kits came with very cheesy front arms which liked to bend and stay bent, altering ride height and caster. The old plastic or graphite is preferred.

Quote:
3. .. the E Speed hanger brings - I suppose it is shortening the link, but in terms of position, is it higher or lower than standard ....
It lowers the inner ballstud and brings it out some. The 'up' position is a mm or two lower than stock, the 'down' position is even lower.
Note that Ellis often uses shaved down Racers Edge rear hubs, putting the ball stud 25.5mm above the hinge pin, which is exactly what AE's 'C' hubs are doing as well.

Quote:
4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6?
No, those are good. It would be good to have the AE blue fronts in your box as well, in case those HPI front tires start generating some decent grip.

Quote:
5. Opinions on sway bars? I don't run any at the moment, is it recommended or more a nice to have (remember I'm not running minipins, so grip is not massive).
I only use them if I have to. Like if I'm desperate for steering. On most of Ellis' set-ups, you'll see he uses a thin bar and the shocks in the inner hole on the arm. On most of my set-ups, there is no bar, but the shocks are in the middle hole. Both options bring the same kind of balance in the car and have more or less the same roll stiffness, but they just bring a different feel to the rear end. It's a very personal thing. I'm smooth, Ellis more aggresive. Take your pick. [/QUOTE]

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6. Finally, would your "Petit Race 2010" setup be a good starting template, or did you squeeze some improvements since then?
That should be good. It's not far off the Ellis Area 51 set-up.
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  #348  
Old 09-11-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Bruno,

You're awesome, I can't thank you enough. I'd offer you a Duvel, or Blue Chimay if I was closer
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  #349  
Old 09-11-2012
Darren Boyle Darren Boyle is offline
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Originally Posted by NicolasCH View Post
Bruno,

You're awesome, I can't thank you enough. I'd offer you a Duvel, or Blue Chimay if I was closer
Nicolas, did you get my email OK earlier with regards your order? Everything is in stock and ready to go for you, if you can just get in contact with the office on Monday to clarify your payment details, that would be great.....
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  #350  
Old 10-11-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Will do.
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  #351  
Old 04-12-2012
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Well the first test was directly at a race, and was quite succesfull (ended 6th of B main out of 5 series overall - and I am a 1/8 buggy driver beginning in 1/10 2WD).

I did the shaved caster block mod, put e-speed hangers, dremelled the chassis for saddle packs and used Elvo's recommendations and mostly used one of his latest carpet setup. I didn't receive the racer's edge rear hubs in time to lower the rear link to a "C hub" level but that's for next time.

The car was initially pushy on exit - note that tires were restricted to sub-optimal AKA rebar/impact so we didn't get yellow minipin grip levels, which probably explains the push (front tires not gripping enough). Changing the toe block to 3░ solved the push, and the car was dialled (at least for my beginner's perception)!

One question though: I have attempted to achieve a 65/35 weight distribution (@1700g) but didn't manage more than 64/36 short of putting more lead in rear pods, or left and right of the motor. Any thoughts? Should I load the rear some more?

Note that I have put 2x25g of rudebits' brass under the saddles (didn't use the "under servo" piece as this made the weight distribution even worse).

I also had some issues with the kyosho velvet shocks that I put in the rear - they are a tad shorter than AE's and ride heigth was difficult to get to 24mm, but in the end that worked out.
Thanks!
Nick
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  #352  
Old 05-12-2012
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64/36 is fine for indoors. And 1700g is a bit heavy, you might want to leave the brass under the lipo out.

On the Kyosho shocks, be sure to use the tall plastic top caps. And if they're still not long enough, losi or AE shock rod ends will stretch overall length even more.
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  #353  
Old 05-12-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Great, thanks for the advice - I will remove the under lipo weight.

I had already ordered Kyosho "Long Big Bore Shock Ends" and will check the tall caps.

How about shocks - I have loaded the Kyosho velvets (standard bore) with 500 and 350 cst oil and 3b pistons, and 12mm associated springs (3.75 front / 2.10 rear) - rear seemed a bit hard on the stand (but actually did not feel bad on the track)?
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  #354  
Old 06-12-2012
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3-B is my favourite piston in Kyosho SB shocks. And I run 3.5 front, 2.3 rear spring rates, so you're in the ballpark.
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  #355  
Old 06-12-2012
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Quick question what difference do soft, medium and hard inserts make?
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  #356  
Old 28-12-2012
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Question Wanted........!!!

As above

Latest X6 Squared indoor setup wanted............???

Which battery layouts, running either Losi or AE (V1) shocks for indoor carpet/polished floor surface !!!

cheers
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  #357  
Old 31-12-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexter24 View Post
As above

Latest X6 Squared indoor setup wanted............???

Which battery layouts, running either Losi or AE (V1) shocks for indoor carpet/polished floor surface !!!

cheers
Difficult to give a complete setup that will just work. How's the car going at the moment? Some great comments above by Elvo on the different battery layouts.
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  #358  
Old 31-12-2012
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I finished with the following at the Broxtowe cracker. Came in third behind Craig Collinson and Eugene Galley
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  #359  
Old 27-02-2013
stuart slmcc stuart slmcc is offline
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Any set-ups for southport indoors ?
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