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  #41  
Old 18-01-2012
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Another tip, if you drill the hole in the casterblock up to 4mm, you can use the brass bushing from EFLH1465 as a bushing for the spindle to slide on.
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  #42  
Old 18-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reevsey View Post
As Flode has mentioned remove 3mm, you will then need to redrill the hole to open it up to 3mm in size, this alows the long ball stud to go through and only grip on the caster block and not the spindle, this allows your steering to still be free moving and smooth. You will need longer turnbuckes, losi do a 55mm length pair TLR6071, i would build up a seperate set so you can do as Darren has done and quickly change from the standard link positions to these modified ones if necessary.

On track - You will notice the car will feel very similar going in to the turn but it will let go of the turn quicker, the biggest difference i found was getting out of a corner on power as the rear end would stay in line much more and calm the car down as the front would let go of the turn, most peoples inboard cars that i have done this mod to prefer it, but on the outboard car it is not good and not a mod i would recommend.
If you ever need more steering as Darren did at the Area 51gp you just go back to the standard link.

Remember to space up the ball studd on the bulkhead to 3mm when you run the modified link and lower the ball stud when you run the standard link position

Si
Could you please explain to dummy, me once again. Longer link with mod, does it suit for driver who likes car to be aggressive (much steering), or more passive (less steering)? Tight or open carpet track for mod?
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  #43  
Old 18-01-2012
jaywestwood jaywestwood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uijui View Post
Could you please explain to dummy, me once again. Longer link with mod, does it suit for driver who likes car to be aggressive (much steering), or more passive (less steering)? Tight or open carpet track for mod?
It will calm the car down on exit of corner... Stops the front rolling and snatching...

I have tried it indoors and was very good... outdoors it helps as car will be able to carry more corner speed and you will be more confident with the car..

As si said if more steering is needed go back to shorter link
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  #44  
Old 18-01-2012
zleader zleader is offline
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Thanks for the details on the mod and the part numbers.

How did you cut the material to 3mm off? rotary tool? like a dremel?

Thanks
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  #45  
Old 19-01-2012
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A dremel works great!

I snapped a few photos whilst doing this mod, here ya go!



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  #46  
Old 19-01-2012
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Could something like this be used as top ballstud with tlr1043 king pins??



What is the thread in millimeters on that go trough kin pin tlr1043?

EDIT: Probably the picture was missing...
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  #47  
Old 20-01-2012
scoyle scoyle is offline
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Can I just confirm the parts that would be required to do this mod;

TLR6071 55mm turnbuckle
TLR6018 Ball ends
EFLH1465 Brass Bushing
TLR1061 Trailing steering arm set
?????? Longer Ball stud

I hope I have listed everything and from reading here I realise that I do not, in theory, need to replace the steering arm spindle set but will probably get a set just in case LOL.

Can someone confirm the longer ball stud part and where can I get the brass bushing part (is this a helicoptor part)?

Thanks
Stephen
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  #48  
Old 20-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
Can I just confirm the parts that would be required to do this mod;

TLR6071 55mm turnbuckle
TLR6018 Ball ends
EFLH1465 Brass Bushing
TLR1061 Trailing steering arm set
?????? Longer Ball stud

I hope I have listed everything and from reading here I realise that I do not, in theory, need to replace the steering arm spindle set but will probably get a set just in case LOL.

Can someone confirm the longer ball stud part and where can I get the brass bushing part (is this a helicoptor part)?

Thanks
Stephen

TLR6023 - 10mm ball stud

Yup, the brass part come with a Blade 400 Tail Rotor Shaft and Drive Pull set (so effectively you would throw away the majority of bits that come with it just for the brass inserts). I would say this is a nice way of doing it but not 100% vital. You can get away with drilling out the steering knuckle so that the ball stud rotates freely (only downside will be that over time it will open up).
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  #49  
Old 20-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delves View Post
TLR6023 - 10mm ball stud

Yup, the brass part come with a Blade 400 Tail Rotor Shaft and Drive Pull set (so effectively you would throw away the majority of bits that come with it just for the brass inserts). I would say this is a nice way of doing it but not 100% vital. You can get away with drilling out the steering knuckle so that the ball stud rotates freely (only downside will be that over time it will open up).
Also, even though the bushing is a nice touch, it will probably make the spindle more fragile, as I'm drilling away 1mm extra material. It works reaaally smoothly though
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  #50  
Old 20-01-2012
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Last edited by Getpip; 20-01-2012 at 05:43 PM. Reason: I should have read it properly!
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  #51  
Old 23-01-2012
jkirkwood jkirkwood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reevsey View Post
On track - You will notice the car will feel very similar going in to the turn but it will let go of the turn quicker, the biggest difference i found was getting out of a corner on power as the rear end would stay in line much more and calm the car down as the front would let go of the turn, most peoples inboard cars that i have done this mod to prefer it, but on the outboard car it is not good and not a mod i would recommend.

Si
Just curious why you think this mod wouldn't be useful on rear motored (outboard) cars? Thanks.
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  #52  
Old 23-01-2012
Reevsey Reevsey is offline
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you loose to much steering and hence the car just pushes on a turn, outboard car has more rear traction, for the outboard car you should run the standard link as the car was designed
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  #53  
Old 24-01-2012
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Thumbs up my 22

when i bought my 22, i ran it in rear but found it felt like it had to much turn at the rear. i now run the mid setup and it feels much more planted compared to rear.

the mod i have done is move the saddles round like my cr2, i also have 50grams under my lipo.

if theres anymore changes i should consider, please let me know.

cheers..Alan
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  #54  
Old 26-01-2012
Layloo9136 Layloo9136 is offline
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Default Not proving that popular?

Sicne I bought mine last week and researching tips, it seems as many as I see being sold, I am also seeing just as many people buying new ones - as you can see from all the threads asking for advice in this forum.
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  #55  
Old 26-01-2012
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I think the issue with the 22 is not a new one but due to the nature of the car ie,being a different route(allowing rear and mid) has made the car popular plus the very attractive price;ensures the car is bought by huge swathes of people myself included.

What comes of this though is the more that are sold the more customers there are with theoretical issues,mass produced full size cars invariably have more bad press from more people because there are more cars being sold and therefore more customers to complain compared to a lower production marque.

Its also a bandwagon issue,the 22 comes out...best and of course to some the worst thing on earth.Dex210 comes out wow this is the best thing on earth and then the ball starts to roll with diff issues,parts missing,cant get wheels and then rear shock towers breaking....it all starts again.

Simple premise....if you like it...race it, ignore the doomsayers and just drive what you love.
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  #56  
Old 27-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILKY View Post
I think the issue with the 22 is not a new one but due to the nature of the car ie,being a different route(allowing rear and mid) has made the car popular plus the very attractive price;ensures the car is bought by huge swathes of people myself included.

What comes of this though is the more that are sold the more customers there are with theoretical issues,mass produced full size cars invariably have more bad press from more people because there are more cars being sold and therefore more customers to complain compared to a lower production marque.

Its also a bandwagon issue,the 22 comes out...best and of course to some the worst thing on earth.Dex210 comes out wow this is the best thing on earth and then the ball starts to roll with diff issues,parts missing,cant get wheels and then rear shock towers breaking....it all starts again.

Simple premise....if you like it...race it, ignore the doomsayers and just drive what you love.

+ 1!
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  #57  
Old 27-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by migsy View Post
when i bought my 22, i ran it in rear but found it felt like it had to much turn at the rear. i now run the mid setup and it feels much more planted compared to rear.

the mod i have done is move the saddles round like my cr2, i also have 50grams under my lipo.

if theres anymore changes i should consider, please let me know.

cheers..Alan
Hey just wondering what you did with the sides of your shell or is there a different shell you can get with taller sides
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  #58  
Old 27-01-2012
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You need the FTW or the J-Concept body to make it fit.
By the way alså the bugleboy or the fatbody will fit with the side by side lipo mod
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  #59  
Old 27-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred79 View Post
You need the FTW or the J-Concept body to make it fit.
By the way alså the bugleboy or the fatbody will fit with the side by side lipo mod
thanks for the reply were do you get them shells from
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  #60  
Old 27-01-2012
mrspeedy mrspeedy is offline
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Phat Bodies "Rocco" available here -

http://phatbodies.bigcartel.com/prod...occo-bodyshell
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