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#2
26-02-2012
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If you're using a B4.1 servo horn, you may have noticed the plastic is softer. I've noticed that if you put a tall bal stud on it, the horn flexes, which makes the front wheels flap about on high-grip surfaces.
Better to use a short neck ball stud such as LOSA9949 or LOSA6029. And a little nut makes it extra secure.
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#3
26-02-2012
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More finesse with ball studs: the manual calls for 2 washers under the stud on the steering spindle because of the 30° of castor, but this achieves the same rod angle with less washers and a lower rod.
I use a ASC41281 (short) on the inboard end, and ASC6275 (tall) on the spindle. No washers required. And as an added bonus: the ball studs have less of a tendency to wiggle themselves loose.
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#7
26-02-2012
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Longer wheelbase in the front with trailing axles
http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...8&postcount=23
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#8
26-02-2012
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A lot of drivers do not use the front motorplate support to allow more flex. I also do this to create more drive on low grip tracks. But I do not want the chassis to flex inwards during a hard landing. So i made an (ugly
 ) nylon block under the plate. So it van only flex to one side.Bonus transmission tip: if you ever had any of the lugs breakoff the transmission case. Just put the same size shim you put under the lugs also between the transmission and the chassis itself. So any load is carries by the whole casing, and not just the 4 lugs.
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#10
13-04-2012
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After bad (inverted!) landings I broke a couple of wing mounts where the hole for the clip is. I saw a few cars with screw mounted wings, so did the same.
Just remove the raised part with the hole from the top and drill a new hole vertically into the mount. Take care as there's not much to drill into. I then used a 4-40 screw and a cone washer from an E-Revo wing (but any suitable washer would do) to secure the wing to each mount. It's not as easy to remove the wing as with a couple of clips, but not a big deal. It's a much firmer mounting and the weak part of the mount is removed.  
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#11
13-04-2012
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Looks good too. We've got the Real Men Wear Black countersink washers to make it look just right.
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#13
18-04-2012
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You can drill out the tower to accept 5-40, and going to the larger screw is one solution for stripped threads in the bulkhead. So, yes, it's OK.
Start with the Kit-supplied 4-40, and keep the gorilla in his cage when installing. Eventually you may strip these screws, so then go to either 3mm or 5-40.
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#14
18-04-2012
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Quote:
http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...26&postcount=9
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#15
19-04-2012
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Ive been working on the X6 today and carried out some mods ive read about;If your using AE shocks and springs its worth cutting a short piece from each end of the rear spring,just enough to eliminate the end coils overlapping.I read somewhere that this will allow the spring to sit better and under compression wont rub the shock body.I had the shocks apart and thought why not,I was pleasantly surprised that it works and gives a nice smooth operation.The other mod was fitting a rear anti roll bar,I bought some of the Schumacher Mi4 mounts U3499 as mentioned on another thread.These will fit without any modification to your car,I used a cap head screw (the same screw as the B4 FT front wheel retainer) and fitted the mounts to the top of the rear toe in bracket.These are great as they come with grub screws with a taper on the end so as to enable you use different thickness bars and adjust accordingly to take out any play which is difficult with the slotted bulkhead method.Happy X6ing!!.
Last edited by Chippy96; 02-06-2012 at 08:42 PM. Reason: redone
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#17
13-07-2012
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Thanks for the great tips guys! Will for sure watch this space!
My tip would be....  Dremmel the chassis ribbs to lower the saddle lipos down in the chassis a few mm more. Anyone have the info on moving rear shock tower forward placing wing over the wheels? BTW I never clicked on this topic cause I thought it was about someone having trouble with their car tipping over.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models!
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#18
14-07-2012
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Quote:
An easy way is to just put the wing mounts on the opposite side (left for right, right for left) and mount them using the top holes on the front side of the shock tower. Body becomes a pain to fit though, gotta put it under the wing first the flex it to get it under the front shock tower.
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#19
15-07-2012
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With my little experience so far, the best tip I can give is to only use the tips that do not directly change the handling of the car. All other tips could be something to 'try' if you're bored, but imo not needed as the car is great out of the box.
Another tip would be not to go crazy on adding weight, especially at the front. This might feel as the car generates more steering, but it actually slows down the reactions of the front end, making the car slower overall. It's quite simple really, imagine a front end of 2kg and try to change the direction of the car, it will just go straight  . If you put in weight at front to stop it from pulling a wheelie: your slipper is too tight!
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#20
15-07-2012
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FlipSide, do you race in the UK? Just asking cause with saddle set-up I tried weight and no weight and for me weight was better, Only 30g on front.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! Last edited by MeBeMikey; 15-07-2012 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Sorry Said "Mad". Meant to say "flipside"
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