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Old 02-05-2019
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Ross Ross is online now
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Default SkyRc Toro

Im after a bit of help/advise please.

My SkyRC Toro 120 will cut out very intermittently.

Last night at Stotfold I lost throttle in the warm up before the final. The steering was fine, just no GOGO juice to move forward. This has happened about 3-4 times before. It normally just starts and goes ok, but last night I had to turn the radio off and on again. Once I did this it was fine, and didn't miss a beat in the final. The speedo has never been hot when this has happened, so over heating is ruled out.

So, I thought it may be my radio, but after talking to a mate who runs the same speedo, but a different radio and has had the same issue. His was fine last night though.

So, my question, has anyone had the same issue with a Toro. If so did you get to the bottom of it. If so what was it

I will add that mine is from RCMart, and my mates is from Schumacher. They were bought about a year apart from each other.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 25-06-2019
lastplace lastplace is offline
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I also had this happen . I enefed up taking it apart found it full of damp sand from the astro . Its been ok for the ladt few weeks but on sunday it decided to losse its calibration setting for the radio .if i recalibrate it works ok again ubtill its turned off ,took it apart again but this time it will not solve the problem.
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Old 25-06-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastplace View Post
I also had this happen . I enefed up taking it apart found it full of damp sand from the astro . Its been ok for the ladt few weeks but on sunday it decided to losse its calibration setting for the radio .if i recalibrate it works ok again ubtill its turned off ,took it apart again but this time it will not solve the problem.
I don't have that issue, I don't race when it damp, let alone wet .

I fixed it by turning the "over heat" and "low battery voltage" cut offs off. However, the esc/motor has never been hot or the battery run low .
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I live with fear everyday....sometimes she lets me race!!!!

Schumacher F1..The original KF.
Tamiya M07R. FORSALE
Associated B6
TLR 5.0 AC
DT 10 32"
682 32"
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HW90TB
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  #4  
Old 25-06-2019
StuartH StuartH is offline
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i have had this exact issue last week racing. its been the second time it happened at a race. 1st time thought it was a dodgy sensor wire coming out (which was part of the problem).
in the end i have replaced mine with a hobbywing.

my skyrc toro was bought this year from a uk seller
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Old 25-06-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuartH View Post
i have had this exact issue last week racing. its been the second time it happened at a race. 1st time thought it was a dodgy sensor wire coming out (which was part of the problem).
in the end i have replaced mine with a hobbywing.

my skyrc toro was bought this year from a uk seller
Try turning the lipo and heat cut off's off, it worked for me
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I live with fear everyday....sometimes she lets me race!!!!

Schumacher F1..The original KF.
Tamiya M07R. FORSALE
Associated B6
TLR 5.0 AC
DT 10 32"
682 32"
HW100
HW90TB
FN19
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  #6  
Old 26-06-2019
mattr mattr is offline
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Had the same issues with reventon pros.

I've been told the term is debounce, but i'm not a software person.
They don't have any.

Any momentary dip in voltage to less than the cut off level and it cuts out. So typically a big start, or a glitch in the voltage monitoring part of the circuit for any miniscule time, and the ESC goes into a low voltage mode.

Even looking at the reported voltage on the CANBUS of a £100000+ Tesla, it jumps around all the time, either side of the *actual* value. So no idea how good the voltage monitoring is on 10 dollars worth of hobby grade electronics.
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Old 26-06-2019
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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The motor overheat and lipo battery cutoff is the first thing I turn off on any ESC when racing as quite often the Lipo voltage sags below the lipo cutoff and I find the software can cut in too soon. I only enable it when practicing to stop me taking the lipo down too low.

I had a strange issue with my aluminium Toro 120A ESC yesterday as I found that I had reverse even though the mode was for forward/brake only. It turned out that the throttle deadband was at 160 instead of 80 and I set the neutral, full throttle and brake point again which cured the problem.
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Old 26-06-2019
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i have this in the cold at a winter series, its because the battery is old and tired and cant hack the demand for powerrrr
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Old 14-07-2019
Casper7 Casper7 is offline
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Had the very same problem at Stotfold turned out to be lipos were on the way out, new lipos and no problem since.
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