Lazer zxr

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by alcyon

Yes exactly ! it should pe part number 3 in these instructions !

They have replaced it with the aluminum piece instead.

mvh isobarik

[oli4ke]

Originally Posted by alcyon

Yes exactly ! it should pe part number 3 in these instructions !

Yes correct!

[Ema]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Interesting, but the one way on this car on high grip at least is a second a lap quicker than a solid layshaft assembly. You can lock the one way easily though with a tightened locknut.

You have given me an idea. How about getting those alloy pulleys with a slot on and make the layshaft in such a way that the layshaft we design locks into it so that in that way we do not need to do that much to make the B4 slipper assembly fit. By doing this design and basically bolting the pulley onto the layshaft this takes that large hub out of the equasion and means that with a long flat section on the remaining part of the layshaft the slipper assembly should fit perfectly into place. Ok we may need to design a section to go through the drive bearing that slots into the layshaft pulley but if we can then this means rebuilding will be easier and the rear drive pulley will significantly last longer due to it being alloy.

So are you telling me that I'm losing a second for each lap ?
Well, I'm probably not the best driver ever, but at the end of the straight I really feel the need of four braking wheels .
Maybe one day I will try the one way ....

Currently my setup on astroturf is:

Front:
- Spring: Associated Blue
- Piston: Associated 3
- Oil : Associated 40 or 45 WT

Rear:
- Spring: Associated Silver
- Piston: Associated 2
- Oil : Associated 30 or 35 WT

Tyres:
Schumacher yellow minipin front and rear.

Bye
Ema

[Ema]

Originally Posted by isobarik

As promised ...........
i have just mounted it to the "ema chassi" for photo so i dont know if its the right way. And yes i got the chassi from ema hence the name Ema chassi. All the parts for the belt stretcher is there i have just not mounted them. And the screws are Ron screws ...

mvh Isobarik

Nice chassis !!!
Would you like to trade it for a pair of bent W5061 ?
You can put them in your lazer without the straight W5061 you sent me for the chassis ......

Apart from kidding, let us know if the pargu part is enough to get the right tension on the belt .... obviously when you get some little more parts over the chassis .

Bye
Ema

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Ema

So are you telling me that I'm losing a second for each lap ?
Well, I'm probably not the best driver ever, but at the end of the straight I really feel the need of four braking wheels .
Maybe one day I will try the one way ....

Currently my setup on astroturf is:

Front:
- Spring: Associated Blue
- Piston: Associated 3
- Oil : Associated 40 or 45 WT

Rear:
- Spring: Associated Silver
- Piston: Associated 2
- Oil : Associated 30 or 35 WT

Tyres:
Schumacher yellow minipin front and rear.

Bye
Ema

Interesting setup, not far off mine at all but softer so will be rather good on Astro.

On carpet I went up to red cut down truck rear springs on the front and Gold cut down truck springs on the rear with roll bar on the back (standard one) and use 70 front Number 1 piston and 45 number 1 piston rear. Car is much more stable on the corners and after cutting the mini pins down (two rows off the inner front and one row off the outer) I can throw the car in the corner. Still needs tweaking but I did find that the car was much quicker with the one way as with a full on 4wd the car tended to not make the apex at speed and made the lap times slower.

[Welshy40]

OK so here is my idea on what is needed for the layshaft. Fair enough this is a mix mash of drawings I have copied and pasted but you can see my madness in here.

Idea is to use associated thrust race, bearing, spring, slipper plates and pads with my spur gear. I have added the bottom section of the hyperclutch and having a slot cut into the B4 back part of the plate so it locks into this hyperclutch part. If this is possible then the costs should be minimal except for the cost of a new layshaft.

Whats your opinion on this?

[oosh123]

Just to answer everybody's question about the belts.

They will be selling for USD $25+shipping a set. I am only going to sale them as a set instead of individually.

I will start taking orders after I have received and examine them.

cheers

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

OK so here is my idea on what is needed for the layshaft. Fair enough this is a mix mash of drawings I have copied and pasted but you can see my madness in here.

Idea is to use associated thrust race, bearing, spring, slipper plates and pads with my spur gear. I have added the bottom section of the hyperclutch and having a slot cut into the B4 back part of the plate so it locks into this hyperclutch part. If this is possible then the costs should be minimal except for the cost of a new layshaft.

Whats your opinion on this?

I don't have the hyper clutch. I think I will keep on working on my alloy pulley, and try to find the hyper clutch hub.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by isobarik

As promised ...........



i have just mounted it to the "ema chassi" for photo so i dont know if its the right way. And yes i got the chassi from ema hence the name Ema chassi. All the parts for the belt stretcher is there i have just not mounted them. And the screws are Ron screws ...

mvh Isobarik

Does the belt tensioner actually work?

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

I don't have the hyper clutch. I think I will keep on working on my alloy pulley, and try to find the hyper clutch hub.

Go for it. When I figure it out and get the quality that I want I will sort you out with a layshaft and adaptor.

[oosh123]

I think this would work for people who don't have the hub for the hyper clutch.

Just imagine the springs, nuts, bearing, and the set screws that holds the pulley is there.

Just a reminder: nothing is to scale.

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by oosh123

Does the belt tensioner actually work?

I have been thinking the same I thought it looked good and i neaded one so i bought one...

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by oosh123

I think this would work for people who don't have the hub for the hyper clutch.

Just imagine the springs, nuts, bearing, and the set screws that holds the pulley is there.

Just a reminder: nothing is to scale.

It looks awsome oosh keep up the good work

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Looks good. I see no one way at all can be used. Still I like the idea of grub screws on the LA11 pulleys.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Looks good. I see no one way at all can be used. Still I like the idea of grub screws on the LA11 pulleys.

Don't need one way bearing on this design. It's 4 wheel drive or brake all the time. Just what Ema wanted. And no hyper clutch hard to find parts (mainly for myself). Pulleys are off the shelf parts and wayyy cheaper than reproducing LA-11 using aluminum (Wayyyy less machining).

The only part that need more attention to is the layshaft. Heat treat, Roll steel, or hard stainless steel would be the best.

I will do some stress analysis on the layshaft to see what diameter is ideal.

[kek23k]

oosh, I think what Welsh was saying was that if possible it would be better to retain the front one-way as the car handles/drives a lot better with this on.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by kek23k

oosh, I think what Welsh was saying was that if possible it would be better to retain the front one-way as the car handles/drives a lot better with this on.

The only downfall I see from this comparing to the 50/50 one way bearing setting is that. When you slowing down from an acceleration, there will be more drag (slows down faster) from the tension of the belts and the motor to the spur/slipper pad, whereas the 50/50 have drage only from the motor to the spur/slipper pad. But you can set your drag with your ESC, can't you?

In other perspective, during acceleration, it will act the same. And It will also have a reverse option, whereas the 50/50 setting have none.

[Welshy40]

If the hub is solid, or in my case when using the ZX hub I use the reverse one way so no drag and as it was only a one way in reverse it was basically a permanent froward only drive hub. When I accelarate both belts get tighter (the front more but does move up and down a lot if loose which is good), and when I stop the throttle the front belts just drops and goes sloppy and the rear is taughter but does kindof have the same effect. Drag is a minimal effect and will be identical in the permanent 4wd system

If the belts are not over tightend the car runs freely on the bearings and is no different from having a permanant 4wd as the tension will be the same under or off power. This car works better with a looser front belt, and is also more efficient as well. This is also a very free running platform (more freeer than a lot of current cars out there) so kindof helps us.

The front one way doesnt cause any drag issues at all, well not what I have noticed anyway. It aids the car in and out of corners and is easier to drive with it. However on clay and low grip I do see this being beneficial with a locked 4wd system. Dont forghet in the current form you just tighten the one way and its totally 4WD

Dont get me wrong I really like your design, maybe the easier alternative is to get two one way bearings for the front diff but am unsure if that would actually work the same way as the front and rear pulleys may be on the same layshaft but work to their own agenda so means more freedom to the front.

I did notice and possibly you have already but you have also got to design an end stop as if you design this as it is how are you going to hold the other bearing into place like the current one way does?

Sorry, load of things going on in my mind about this and we are on the right track but like with all designs we need to flatten out the issues to get this right before we go and get this made up.

[oosh123]

Well, I will wait for your design, and possibly have the alloy la-11 ready to match your design.

[Welshy40]

Did you see the pictures?