My new 210 build

[minke]

Not been able to race for quite a while now, the building bug is still strong though. I caved in and bought a 210 kit, since the prices are so cheap. (It would be rude not to!)
The kit quality is as I expected, smooth and a pleasure to put together. But there have been a couple of issues.
I have it in MM 4 gear setup with a geared diff. The rear end assembly looked awful, the instructions didn't show the rear bumper at all, so I had countersunk screws protruding from the bottom of the chassis. Also the sway bar mounts were really weak, the nyloc nuts kept spinning and the screws still look like they should be longer to go through the upper holes in the gearbox. I wish my scanner was working, just so I could show the incorrect diagram in the manual. Thankfully Stu at JE helped me out with that one.

I also need to know how to cut out the pod shell, got the right scissors, but after painting, the lines still aren't clear. Can anyone post a clear pic of a cut one to help me out?

Rest of my specs -

Nosram matrix Istc with Lrp X12 6.5T
35/30 shock oil with stock springs (not seen other springs available)
Schu yellow minispikes rear, yellow staggers on front, med inserts
2000wt gear diff oil, dunno if I should change it

[Si Coe]

That close enough to the setup mines running. Bring it down Sunday (I'll be in race control) and I'll give it a look over.

[ekt]

Originally Posted by minke

Not been able to race for quite a while now, the building bug is still strong though. I caved in and bought a 210 kit, since the prices are so cheap. (It would be rude not to!)
The kit quality is as I expected, smooth and a pleasure to put together. But there have been a couple of issues.
I have it in MM 4 gear setup with a geared diff. The rear end assembly looked awful, the instructions didn't show the rear bumper at all, so I had countersunk screws protruding from the bottom of the chassis. Also the sway bar mounts were really weak, the nyloc nuts kept spinning and the screws still look like they should be longer to go through the upper holes in the gearbox. I wish my scanner was working, just so I could show the incorrect diagram in the manual. Thankfully Stu at JE helped me out with that one.

I also need to know how to cut out the pod shell, got the right scissors, but after painting, the lines still aren't clear. Can anyone post a clear pic of a cut one to help me out?

Rest of my specs -

Nosram matrix Istc with Lrp X12 6.5T
35/30 shock oil with stock springs (not seen other springs available)
Schu yellow minispikes rear, yellow staggers on front, med inserts
2000wt gear diff oil, dunno if I should change it

The online manual is more accurate http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf

Here are a pic from google that show how the shell is cut for MM.

[minke]

It will be a week on sunday until I can come down, (I've been working 3 out of 4 weekends for a long time) It will give me time to get the wheels dyed black and tyres glued up though. I'll post pics tomorrow.

[Danosborne6661]

I wouldn't bother with the rear cowling set, waste of time. Just cut the rear of the shell round the gearbox casing like you would usually and don't bother with the cowlings. That's what most tend to do!

[minke]

My bad ekt, I meant the small side section that sits beside the main shell, it looks so damned awkward to cut.

[minke]

quickly put these up before I call it a night- bumper added in this one, those nylocs are a pain.

[Dombrasky]

the rear assembly is not right,the two small plastic inserts that are above the gearbox
should be underneath into the rear hingepin brace
were you can see thread of the screws is were the inserts need to be,look at the diagram
in the manual again, its not that clear really on page 38 but a bit better on page 42

[minke]

Those 2 plastic spacers do not fit into alloy brace, they are certainly the right numbered parts. I have been through the box of leftovers, not seen anything yet. I'll have another go.

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by minke

Those 2 plastic spacers do not fit into alloy brace, they are certainly the right numbered parts. I have been through the box of leftovers, not seen anything yet. I'll have another go.

The right numbered ones are indeed the wrong diameter - at least on the later batch(es) - I don't recall that being the case on the first batch.

Anyway, just get any 6mm diameter spacer or set of spacers and fill up that gap until the spacers sit flush with the flat top of the hanger I've got loads of Tamiya internal shock spacers and fixed it with that, though I think there will be spacers in the Rango kit to fix it with.

[minke]

Just a quick scan, of the instructions. I'm more confused than unhappy. I think I have gotten used to the high quality of Durango stuff.

[ekt]

The correct plastic inserts are 310257-4, check the online manual.

[AfroP]

There are grub screws that you can screw in just to the plastic
to tighten the hold on the lock nuts to stop them moving
This isnt in the manual at all but is the case in factory built rtr's
The 210 manual is an absolute mess and I cant believe it made it through qa

[slippy]

When I changed my rtr to mm4 the holder was glued in the front and covered in glue and looked a mess when it was on the rear but as I was not going to use a roll bar for now I used 3x6 spacers instead.

[minke]

Originally Posted by slippy

When I changed my rtr to mm4 the holder was glued in the front and covered in glue and looked a mess when it was on the rear but as I was not going to use a roll bar for now I used 3x6 spacers instead.

Those spacers look much better, might do that. Just got the wheels dyed black and given it a good run, really happy with it.

[NeilRalph77]

Use shorter screw's so the nylocs sit directly on top of the gearbox flange, does away with the need for all them spacers, if your using the kit alloy toe block run a 3mm drill through the rear bumper holes then you can screw it all together properly.