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#84
01-12-2015
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Very very nice
Ok after doing an event this weekend, found the perfect carpet set up. Size one all round pistons, 30wt front oil with black springs, 35wt rear oil with silver springs. 25 degree castor blocks. Tie rod ball joint Inner hole on front shock tower and rear tower. middle hole on front tower if using three hole for top of shock, and middle / inner on rear (basically i prefer front & rear shocks angled identically. Rear wishbones, middle hole (if using 3 hole wishbones, otherwise outer if 2 holes). Front wishbone outer hole. Battery saddle pack forward placement with foam insers by rear tower. 10g weight on either side of full size servo (used for more weight). Vts slipper clutch fitted with ceramic diff balls and tungsten thrust race. Rear hubs set on middle. 2wd slim yellow mini pins and uncut, rear yellow mini pins uncut. Ride height rear with 1mm spring spacer and no spring clamp. Front with spring clamp and 4mm spacer. Shocks worked better with 1mm pack so gets hard to push shaft fully into body 1mm from end of travel, with standard silver shock shafts as gold is a lot harder to get pack. Hope this helps
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www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS 
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#85
02-12-2015
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#86
02-12-2015
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Actually managed to give mine its first run today. It was outdoors on high grip astro. Made a couple of small changes to my staring setup resulting in a car that was v consistent and easy to drive and at the same time quick (only thing holding it back in places was me not wanting to break it). My setup at the end of the day: Front: Yellow low pro cut staggers 20mm ride height No1 pistons, 32.5wt oil, brown springs Shocks middle on the tower and outer on arm Link middle height outer, middle hole on tower 25 deg hubs Std Ackerman 0.5deg camber Rear: Yellow rear minipin 20mm ride height No1 pistons, 27.5wt oil, silver springs Shocks middle on tower, outer on arm Link inner on tower, inner on hub 0deg hubs Diff medium/loose 10g either side of the servo 60g straight behind the servo (in battery compartment) Shorty battery against the weights 40g behind shorty A couple more things to try, red/green from springs and maybe drop front oil to 27.5-30wt, 2deg rear blocks (to make the car a touch more aggressive on turn in) Last edited by charlesk; 07-12-2015 at 08:59 AM.
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#88
28-01-2016
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Hi guys, a quick B3 question if I may. I got a B3 sport from my Dad at xmas, and I'm prepping it ready for racing again. I managed to get a set of CVD's (thanks DMS) which have the 3/16 axle. I did get some wheels with the car, but not many. I think the worlds re-re rears fit ok, I have a header card with 6805Y which seems to be the same part number. The fronts are more of a problem. I have fitted some B4 fronts which have BB greens on (hopefully to run at the weekend), but the offset is too narrow. I thought the worlds re-re fronts might work, but spares lists look like they show B4 wheels. Is there anything currently available that would give the right offset, other than the JC wheels? Cheers
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#89
02-02-2016
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Phoenix buggy from thunder tiger is a b3 in drag. Wheels fit and have a pair myself. You can get alloy upgrades as well like rear tower mount and front alloy block. Think the screws are not usa style though.
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www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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#90
03-02-2016
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I saw there is a conversion for the RC10 Worlds to run B4 wheels. I had a look, it looks like it comes with a longer stub axle which makes up for the different offset. I am pretty sure it will fit, and the axle is available seperately. I'm not sure if it will be ok to run it like that at the Iconic revival or not though. Thanks Welshy
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#93
03-02-2016
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I have the CVD's in my car now, so yeah the Worlds 3/16 wheels look right. I have one pair of wheels I had to open up the hole slightly to fit for some reason. I am going to check with Iconic re the fronts, if they are hard to find hopefully it wont be an issue running the B4 fronts.
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#95
07-03-2016
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A bit of an overdue update.
The B3 has been really good both outdoors and indoors, with only the typical issue of rear motor cars on high grip of not enough steering on power/front end lifting under hard acceleration, not made better by me using shorties which are considerably lighter than the nicd/nimh that it was originally designed to use. So a bit of extra weight at the front especially was going to help. Had a couple of us tomorrow weights drawn and made which really help a lot and look far better (imo) than the typical solution of stick ons...  The one in the battery compartment is stackable allowing to fine tune how much weight to use no wraps around the post to maximise space and weight available.  Also make some rc10 specific nose weights for the same reason 
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#96
07-03-2016
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Nice job. I made a piece of lead flashing that sits under my saddle pack cells in my B3, the same size as the battery tray area. It puts the weight approx back to what round cells would be. I need to try it without and see how it drives, and try moving some weight around. I have noticed it jumps pretty nose high which is a pain, so it might need some weight further forward. I also think it has a washer under the rear toe block reducing the anti squat.
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#100
24-08-2019
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The other one on the other hand...
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Linear Mode
