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#21
20-09-2013
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Its REALLY important that your drive train is free and efficient -any tightness or binding is going to result in either a mechanical or electrical failure...
It sounds like you have tested your rear gearbox and its free. Is that the same for the front? If so, remove the pinion from the motor and fit the spur gear - still free? If so, it could be your mesh is too tight...you need a tiny bit of backlash. There are thousands of articles on how best to set it, the one I always remember was to insert a piece of cigarette foil between the pinion and spur, mesh tight and then rotate to remove the foil. This will leave a small amount of backlash. For high grip astro, the kit springs might be too soft. I have run Dark Red and even Yellow on the Front, with Black on the rear. Kit pistons should be OK to get you going, I used to run 42.5wt Losi oil in the front and 30wt Losi in the rear. 10K/7K Front/Rear Diff oils should be OK. The nose diving will almost certainly be due to the drag on the drive train; its like putting the brakes on when you come off the power. Sort the drive train and the nose diving should disappear. HTH 
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#22
20-09-2013
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Sounds like you possibly have too much lo title in the cv pins???
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#23
20-09-2013
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drive axels
how free should the spur gear be when both axels are attached ?
I do have a feeling that the drive axels are too stiff yet the front and rear axels are free and if u spin the wheels by hand they are free yet when u hold 1 wheel the other 3 rotate they are not as free ?
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#24
20-09-2013
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I'm having similar problems wioth my newly built 410v3 to be honest.
It all seems free enough when the pinion is removed but when I put the pinion on it seems very noisy and it nose dives like crazy over jumps. I can roll the car along with pinion off and it rolls nice a free and quite but when I put the pinion on it doesn't seem free or quire which is very odd. I've been racing long enough to know how to mesh the pinion to spur and I know its not a damaged spur or pinion, i've also swapped motors just in case. It's all very odd, i have noticed that there is some resistance to the drive when the steering is on full lock and I think i may have put too much threadlock on the driveshaft pins which is causing this but that shouldn't effect things in a straight line. I think i'm going to have to strip it all down and start again tbh.
__________________
Wes Associated B5M, Team C TC02C, Team Durango DEX410v3
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#25
20-09-2013
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If you are running any drag brake, try turning it off.
The metal on metal gears in the drive train do make it noiser than other shaft drive cars. It is important to shim the diffs correctly and also to make sure the correct amount of float is present on the centre shafts input gears. I would add some grease to the gearbox innards as well.
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#26
20-09-2013
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Quote:
With the drivetrain fully assembled and without pinion, it should still spin pretty free with a little bit more resistance than each end individually but no tight spots.
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#27
20-09-2013
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Quote:
I don't think I've got drag brake set up but I will double check. I've built the car as per the instructions but the shimming of the diffs was a bit confusing maybe i've done something wrong. Also how do i check i've got the correct amount of float on the centre shaft input gears?
__________________
Wes Associated B5M, Team C TC02C, Team Durango DEX410v3
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