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#1
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Help im broken
Where do I start lol
This is the 3rd time I have stripped and re built my steering unit on the 410v3 as I can not get stop it drifting to a side.. I have spoken to a couple of guys about it online they are baffled too no body runs them around here so I hope you guys can help I have just bought every nut.bolt.part (the servo mount and steering arm are now aluminium ) the servo saver is tresrey and all over conponents are new to including the servo.i built it as instructions everything is nice and free and checked with nothing connected all free and nothing rubbing . Put on aluminium servo arm and checked and that's centering put it all together and still a few about 2cm out after back and forth so tightened the servo saver up a full turn and was a bit better so I took it for a try out side and .... It was awful tracking was out and corrected it and turned and the other way would be way way off I have no idea what to do I won't give up as thats part the fun right trying to make things better and run well Any advice is seriously appreciated as im at a loss right now Thanks |
#2
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410 steering
Try adjusting the trim on your radio.
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Xray XB9 Xray xb4 2014 Dex 210 Dex 410r Kyosho MP6E Kyosho RB6 Schumacher Cougar SV2 Radio Control News Facebook page click link M B MODELS |
#3
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Something wrong with the servo? Which one are you using?
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#4
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410 steering
Thanks for replying . Thats just it tho u adjust the trim great its in a straight line then it os awful the other way just keeps pulling to the side I dpnt understand
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#5
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My servo
Its a savox sc-1258tg
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#6
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Pull the steering assembly out, check all is free moving, then check the steering hubs on the wishbones for free movement also.
Sounds like something is tight or binding , all bits should be free with no slop Hope this helps
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www.darcdevelopments.com Email (darcdevelopments@gmail.com) Manufacturer of the 410 D.A.R.C |
#7
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I can think of a few things to check
1 check that the ball studs aren't catching on the wishbones at full or nearly full lock 2 remove servo link and make sure all is free through out all the suspension travel 3 while the servo link is disconnected try wiggling the servo make sure it is self centering 4 make sure the servo saver is tight, try really nipping it up 5 make sure the car doesn't have toe out, ie the front wheels don't face out if its still doing it when you've checked all that it can be one of two thing servo is damaged inside transmitter pot on steering side is damaged
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#8
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Is the servo saver catching on top of the servo?
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#9
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Thanks for comments
I am at work just now so car is not in front of me I will try all these tonight it all seams free enough just one thing is there any screws that should not be nipped up someone said about bearings on the steering arm ? Will the servo saver not break if over tighten its about 1.4mm just now
Thank you al i really appreciate it I just want to get it right sick of fighting the steering I tried it this morning and got it straight then turned must be about a 20% drift off to the side |
#10
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Check that all the wheel bearings are ok, as this can cause the car to pull to one side. Ditto with the diffs, if one of the outdrives is sticking in the diff case.
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#11
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Hi
I read in your posts that after you adjusted the servo saver it was better but then started again. Have you thread locked the servo saver nut to prevent it backing off and going lose again ? Just thought.
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#12
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Is the servo arm too tight and squeezes the upper case? I have had to put a small spacer in some servo arms to get a better distance from the case as not to tighten it against the case
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#13
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My servo
Yeah I did it is stiff already due to thread lock how tight should it go as dont want to break anything
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#14
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My servo
The servo saver that is
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#15
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A new set of worms
Just checked the front of the car and all seams ok all tho tho when I steered right the servo carried a bit further the as far as catching possibility at full lock it touches the front diff ring just turning left full lock turning right seams fine how ever here is the new problem
When I pressed the throttle the front right wheel started to wobble and the diff right moved twice as fast as the left which made the right wheel vibrate and move alot Any thoughts |
#16
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That's how i've set my steering, so the steering plate just touches the diff housing on lock. Any more than that and the servo makes funny noises
If one side is spinning freely and the other isn't, there must be some binding somewhere, do you have the spacer 310032 in your front hub on the LHS? Have you overtightened the wheel so the hex is dragging on the bearing (a possibility with plastic hexes) did you put all the seals/spacers/etc in the diff? And the dragging/slow moving LHS wheel will cause the car to track oddly, no matter how well you set up the steering. |
#17
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I run a 410R and try to take off the servo horn and centre the servo and see if it is loose and if so just tighten the screw with the servo centred that happened to me and that done the job
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#18
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take the servo out, put on a servo horn and attach a pencil or something else long like a knitting needle to it securely, clamp servo so the body cant move and put a piece of card in front of it, mark the centre position then operate the servo in both directions repeatedly, to see if it centres exactly to this mark. if it doesnt centre properly every time you know you have a problem with either the pot in your servo or the pot on your radio. use another servo, doing exactly the same thing to confirm whether its the servo or your transmitter. you will be surprised how many servo's arent that accurate around centre, and using a long extended arm highlights it a lot. you will see it much more with servo's that have been used in nitro cars as the pots are affected quite badly by a tiny amount of fuel ingress. on an innacurate servo as long as its not too bad you can get by sometimes by using a shorter servo arm and extending the end points on your transmitter without losing steering lock.
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#19
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Drive train
Thanks guys for all your comments been really helpfull delighted with the forward straight line its slightly out but I think I can sort that now
The drive train when I put it back together the bit where the cogs are at the back were nice and free working well but the drive train arm down the middle was really stiff like u could turn it with plyers and just by hand when together give it a blip of power and it goes but instant stops racing it last night it was nose diving at jumps alot I have 10k front and 7k rear shocks I have 550/darkblue front 6. 1.2 piston front and 450/ light blue 6. 1.3 piston rear Any suggestions Thanks for all your help so far |
#20
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Track
Sorry I race on a high grip sandy astro
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