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#21
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I think its a combo of the slipper pads not being "keyed" into both sides of the spur properly and it being set to loose... A loose slipper will over heat the plastic and and allow teeth to come off.
I have never had the need for alloy or steel spur gears for any of my race cars/trucks in my 23years in the hobby. |
#22
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May just be an oversight, but shouldn't the slipper spring be at the other end of the layshaft (refer to the first image upload). I always have the spring in the dust cover at the other end, and just a washer and a nut on the the slipper pad end.
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Schumacher Cougar SV Schumacher Cat SX II Eden Park Raceway |
#23
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Are you sure that the centre of the spur hasn't melted?
I have seen it before where the slipper is not tight enough and it melts the centre of the spur and allows it to move around on the output shaft, which strips the teeth. |
#24
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Check the play in the layshaft bearings! If you have a little play in the bearings then when your car/chassis flexes it moves the meshing slightly and sometimes is just enough to pull a tooth off, then that results in the spur itself stripping. Plus looking at picture 1, your meshing does look loose!
Also just a tip, those shocks are wound WAY too high.... |
#25
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Look at my shock collars compared to yours...
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#26
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I will change the shocks thanks for the advice, and yes it has not melted everything apart from the spikes are still in tack
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#27
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Well it's either your meshing that wasn't correct to begin with then or your motor has moved.
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#28
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may be the meshing i did not check it before i ran it as i trusted it would be fine , but i will tighten up all of the screws arround the motor just incase when i fit the new part
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#29
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Personally, looking at your photos....
The first pic of the losi motor looks fine, and the pinion looks to be a 48dp pitch (tooth size etc.).... ..the second pic, the pinion on your novak looks to be a more coarse pitch possibly a tamiya style .4 pitch. Which would explain why it has done it and why it seems to have actually removed every other tooth rather than just stripping/melting like we do at races. Get a new 'spur' ( the large gear) and get a new pinion (the small one) and make sure they give a 48dp pinion (around a 23tooth). then all should be fine. |
#30
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I agree the pinion looks a little large. I found the schumacher hardened alloy pinions are real good for the price.
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SHUMACHER CAT SX SHUMACHER COUGAR SV |
#31
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Will 20 t be ok for small cog
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#32
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what size spur gear is it ?
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HPI RACING - FLUX BRUSHLESS - GECKORC - BIGREDLIDZ |
#33
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83t I think
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#34
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with an 83 tooth spur gear I run a 48dp 23 tooth pinion and never had any problems, providing you mesh it up correctly you shouldn't either
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#35
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How long should each turn buckle be and should the wheels be tilted in or our?
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#36
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as stated earlier, the slipper adjusting nut/spring is on the wrong side! it should be on the side furthest from the spur, not next to it. This could be causing the spur to move around too much.
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John Jones --SMD--INSIDE LINE MODELS--PR RACING UK-- My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79696 |
#37
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Quote:
The reason the nut is on this side is because he has the upgraded layshaft and pinion! This is more reliable than it being on the other side and running the old layshaft! |
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