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#1
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Xray xb4 2wd help!
Hi, just got a xb4 2wd from mb models just wondered what hopups or essential parts are needed before I bulid thanks.
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#2
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The only essential part is the alloy covers for the cvd's as the plastic ones are a weak spot. Kit springs are ok to start if running indoor - if outdoor then we use AE springs front and rear
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#3
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Thanks, seems to be alot with alloy shock tower protectors is that just precautionary?
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#4
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I've only ever used the silver protectors that came with the car - indoors I do use a lexan guard in the front tower at the request of the club but I've had my car 12 months and broken nothing and that's racing indoors at silverstone and outdoors at regionals and on 1/8 scale tracks. The cars very durable IMO - just make sure you seal all the carbon fibre parts with super glue like the manual says too.
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#5
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What AE springs do you use outdoors smd why?
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#6
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I personally didn't bother with the AE springs. They are good if you want a bigger range, however I found 3dot/2dot front and 2dot rear worked everywhere.
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Ardgay Models Schumacher CORE-RC Hobbywing Mark One Designs |
#7
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We use the yellow and purple up front and green and white rear. We liked the feel of the AE springs better outdoor as felt more progressive than the XRAY springs did (tried XRAY progressive springs but for the 2wd car I found them very inconsistent )
If you run AE springs we also run 2 hole Pistons 1.6f 1.7r with 35-40wt oil up front and 25-32.5 rear depending on the grip in the track and how big the jumps are. If I run XRAY springs then I run the kit Pistons front and rear with 40wt f 32.5wt r
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#8
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Just seen these kits have come down massively in price, does anyone know if there is an updated 2015 version around the corner like how they have updated the 4wd xb4?
Chris
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PR Racing - Insidelinemodels - RC Concept - LMR - BMM Racing - MB Models |
#9
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Mr Talent, there have been some pictures of a number of prototypes been posted around the net. Nothing official that I have seen though.
Xray do love a yearly update!
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Aidan Burke - Southport Radio Car Club #SchumacherFamily #TQmodels #ExtraLapRCpodcast |
#10
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I would expect one early 2015.
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Ardgay Models Schumacher CORE-RC Hobbywing Mark One Designs |
#11
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Quote:
Cheers |
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I'm referring to the guys I race with who all run this buggy (7 of us at the Mid East region) - were not part of an "official" team as XRAY only have Stu Wood I believe as their official driver in the UK but we like the car and have put a lot of effort in last year to get it to work in low grip.
A couple of the guys who are in out group are supported by RCDISCO who are the XRAY importers though if that helps?
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#13
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We've been running the kit Xray 3 dot front and 2 dot rear both indoor and outdoor with great success on both astro, carpet and dirt on the 2WD.
No need to go out and buy additional springs for the 2WD. We're still running this spring setup on the new prototype Malin's been running for the last 5 months. Here's the start setup we use for the XB4 2WD on med - high grip carpet and astro outdoors and indoors: http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=xb4_2wd Bent |
#14
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Shorty conversion will handle differently to our saddlepack standard versions, I did try a home made shorty conversion for a bit but it needed more work and I didn't have time to sort it, was getting more consistent results with the saddles. Hopefully an updated factory shorty conversion will sort this.
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#15
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Quote:
There's a very very slight shift in weight distribution on a shorty converted 2WD and a standard saddle pack layout (we have 4 x XB4 2WD's here). Biggest benefit of the shorty conversion is that you save a small amount of overall weight which you then can add to the rear. The main thing though is to have the front setup with a tiny amount of push. 99% of the 2WD's I see are setup way too soft with the result of the car collapsing and diffing out in the turns (which is what the majority of the complaints are all about). We've raced the XB4 2WD on all surfaces this past year including loose dirt, clay, astro and carpet with plywood sections (slippery) with great success. It's all in the setup really as the XB4 2WD due to it's different weight bias needs a different setup to function properly Bent |
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Bent - would you happen to have a setup for wet, sandy AstroTurf that's bumpy so we can compare against ?
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#17
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When he says wet astro, he means so slippery you can't keep it in a straight line! Would be helpful, cheers.
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#18
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Quote:
Quote:
Shortening the rear arms (to move them forward) and running a ball diff (with carbide balls and glued diff rings) helps a lot especially on a bumpy track. The traction with a properly setup ball diff is night and day on a bumpy track compared to a gear diff. We've done several passes over bumpy sections with both ball diff and gear diffs (700cst all the way up to 10'cst) and recorded it in slow motion and the difference is huge Bent |
#19
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We've shortened the rear arms to and also run the ball diff, we've also drilled a new inner hole in the rear wishbone for the lower shock mount - this helped a lot on very low grip tracks, though the shocks / springs need to be stiffer to stop the rear collapsing. Some of our astro tracks have nitro buggies running on them as well as 1/10th. These are ice rinks in the wet!
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#20
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Quote:
9 out of 10 of the XB4 2WD I help out are all set up too soft. The biggest culprit is usually running the front way too soft. How much have you shortened the rear arms ? Are you running the ball diff with carbide or stock ceramic balls ? Have you glued the diff rings ? What tires are you running in the front compared to the rear. On astro we have usually ran the normal profile staggers to have a bigger tire that don't dig in as easily (front grip has never been a problem). Converting to a shorty setup will also help in terms of being able to add back the saved weight to the rear of the car. Running other lighter parts in aluminum and titanium as well as a low profile servo will also help in that respect by lowering the overall weight and being able to add it back where it helps more. But remember the XB4 2WD will never be able to compete with a rear motor in terms of mechanical grip due to the rotation of the motor and drivetrain. Bent |
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