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  #1  
Old 07-08-2013
badgio badgio is offline
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Default Upgrades to DEX410RV3

Quick question, roughly how much would you spend on upgrades to the DEX410rv3 to get it the same spec as the DEX410V3 and what are essential for strength etc?

Cheers guys!

Dean
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2013
marley marley is offline
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Tempted by the cheap prices are you Dean?
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2013
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I'm keen to know too, what are the essential upgrades required?
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2013
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Lots of things! The search function on here should give you the answers you need.
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2013
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I would say that upgrading the wish-bone blocks to alloy,a decent alloy servo saver and the alloy wheel hexes would be first on my list.
A lot of the other bits are just fluffy.
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2013
badgio badgio is offline
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Are the alloy wheel hexes worth having on the 210 also?

And can you recommend a decent servo saver?

Cheers!
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2013
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Alloy locking hexes are a great buy for 210 and 410.
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  #8  
Old 09-08-2013
Chesty Chesty is offline
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Alloy locking hexes & servo saver arm aren't std on the V3 either...

If you can live with the alloy shock towers then FF & RR wishbone hangers are all you really need to mAke it as tough as a V3.
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  #9  
Old 10-08-2013
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The R doesn't come with alloy shock towers anymore, they are plastic.

There are loads of small differences, some just cosmetic.
The small bore shocks and plastic hinge pin holders of the R are probably the most significant.
0 and 1deg hubs are also included with the V3.
Different (Khuler) body shell with more room for electrics is also worth a mention.

If you have the choice I would certainly recommend spending the extra (around £45 right now) to get the full V3.
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  #10  
Old 10-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getpip View Post

If you have the choice I would certainly recommend spending the extra (around £45 right now) to get the full V3.
The R's are being sold off at only £120 each or £200 for two at the moment!
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  #11  
Old 10-08-2013
mutoid mutoid is offline
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The tresrey servo saver,hex blocks and shock collars are all great upgrades,pretty cheap as well.
There are others like exotek and rdrp to name two though.
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  #12  
Old 14-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chesty View Post
Alloy locking hexes & servo saver arm aren't std on the V3 either...

If you can live with the alloy shock towers then FF & RR wishbone hangers are all you really need to mAke it as tough as a V3.
Very interested in this thread having just bought a 410r.

Was thinking of doing a couple of the most important mods as I build.

Tresrey servo saver seems highly recommended. It seems to come as two seperate parts, the crank and the shaft. Do i need to buy both or can i just get the crank?

In terms of wishbone hangers, it seems they are about £8-9 each. When you say FF and RR, are you saying there is little point getting FR or RF?

Finally whats the benefit of alloy wheel hex's?

Thanks for any answers.
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  #13  
Old 14-08-2013
gazmond gazmond is offline
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The benefit is that the metal pin doesn't constantly fall out the minute you take the wheel off.

I'm sure there are other benefits but tbh it's worth the money to not have spend all your time scrabbling around on the floor looking or the damn pin that fell out!!!
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  #14  
Old 15-08-2013
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In short: DON'T buy the R-version if you're in for some competition.

(comming from a bloke who did buy an R and regrets it money-wise)
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Old 15-08-2013
mattr mattr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy-j.smith6 View Post
Tresrey servo saver seems highly recommended. It seems to come as two seperate parts, the crank and the shaft. Do i need to buy both or can i just get the crank?

In terms of wishbone hangers, it seems they are about £8-9 each. When you say FF and RR, are you saying there is little point getting FR or RF?
Some of the hangers in the R kit are already aluminium, no point in getting different aluminium ones (not sure which are aluminium currently, it may have changed!)
The stock servo saver shaft is aluminium anyway, no point really in upgrading unless you like the tresrey red Just get the crank.
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  #16  
Old 15-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowie View Post
In short: DON'T buy the R-version if you're in for some competition.

(comming from a bloke who did buy an R and regrets it money-wise)
Thanks for the advice, but I already have, I recognise its going to have some short comings, having read a number of threads on the topic, but for £129, thought its worth a punt, plus leaves some money to strengthen.

Not sure what you mean by competition. Will be doing some indoor club racing on a largely flat carpet surface.

Thanks for the responses guys.
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  #17  
Old 15-08-2013
Chesty Chesty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy-j.smith6 View Post
Thanks for the advice, but I already have, I recognise its going to have some short comings, having read a number of threads on the topic, but for £129, thought its worth a punt, plus leaves some money to strengthen.

Not sure what you mean by competition. Will be doing some indoor club racing on a largely flat carpet surface.

Thanks for the responses guys.
It'll be fine - as you've probably read its the same car with cheaper materials in certain areas & small bore shocks/different bodyshell.

I've seen the FF & RR plastic hangers break in a big crash, as well as the alloy towers bending (it may have plastic towers now?). Otherwise, no weaker than the V3 IMHO.

You can put a bit of threadlock on the wheel pins to stop them falling out, & they'll probably bend a little from use which will further help hold them in.
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  #18  
Old 15-08-2013
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If you can try and spring for the full fat V3 rather than the R

Bits essential are

Servo saver arm (get an alloy one by Tresrey/Exotek/TD)
Rear gearbox/lipo mount (get an alloy one by Tresrey/Exotek/TD)
If you can the gearbox holders too (get the alloy ones by Tresrey/Exotek/TD)

I would also get some locking wheel hexes as mentioned above. Tresrey do these.

apart from the this the V3 is solid. Other bits are by choice, and not really racing necessity
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  #19  
Old 15-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jo90 View Post
If you can try and spring for the full fat V3 rather than the R
There is no "full fat" V3, the full fat cars were the 2009 & 2010 cars, the V3 has been on a major diet since then
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  #20  
Old 15-08-2013
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Depends what you class as full fat, i'd see it as carbon towers, fatbody shocks etc as per the V3
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