2wd Proto - CR2

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by GRIFF55

just doing a rebuild now and some plonker has put an 84t spur on my car!!

You need a decent pit b***h

[GRIFF55]

have to admit, last years did me proud!
roll on 2010!!!!

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by GRIFF55

have to admit, last years did me proud!
roll on 2010!!!!

Don't forget to bring the spare car's on Saturday they may need dusting i guess

[GRIFF55]

lipo will, the other is better than when it came!! ha ha ha. sure i cant keep 'em

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by GRIFF55

lipo will, the other is better than when it came!! ha ha ha. sure i cant keep 'em

You can keep them for a fee lol.

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by OldTimer

The hole that locates the idler post is countersunk on the other side of the motorplate (otherwise the motor would not be flush to the motorplate) and a extra countersunk hole so close to the other would weaken the area as there is not much cf left.

I choose the 78t as it is the kit spur and its what most people use, i am in the process of getting some 78t hydra drive spurs made. Also using the smaller spur allows you to move the motor more to the rear of the car.

And as you point out as a 78t spur is about 1mm smaller od than the hydradrive casing you would need to shave / dremel off half the width of teeth on the idler, so the hydra casing does not rub against the idler gear, but as the idler is over twice the width of the spur gear this would not cause a problem. But this only needs to be done if your using the hydradrve.

If you just using the two pad slipper then there are no extra mod's required.

A 78t Hydradrive spur would be excellent! I had already "chopped" an
idler gear when experimenting with the idler mod. I was concerned that the idler may move on the bearing as it now had a degree of freedom towards the motor plate and the losi manufacturing tolerance between bearing and idler is rubbish (almost a completely loose fit in some cases).
I ended up bonding a bearing into the 1/2 idler - tricky solution, but it worked - only took a drop to hold the bearing in place.

Make sure to come over and say hi at the Petit RC. All the people from Ireland are pitting together and I'm the only one with an Atomic Carbon.

[fastinfastout]

jonathan, in the not too distant future, will there be an option of including the aluminum chassis instead of the current carbon one the conversion kit, or is the aluminum chassis a single upgrade purchase only?

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by fastinfastout

jonathan, in the not too distant future, will there be an option of including the aluminum chassis instead of the current carbon one the conversion kit, or is the aluminum chassis a single upgrade purchase only?

Currently the plan is to offer the aluminium chassis as a option part.

[SHY]

What's the effect? Stiffer?

And how does it affect handling?

[Reevsey]

Think i may have been the only person to try the Atomic carbon Alu chassis so far as Danny Mcgee made his own.

So far i have found it to make the car more planted, the one i have is 80g heavier than std and obviously the weight is as low as it can get, It gives me the feeling the car has more grip across the front and rear in slippy conditions even though there is no or very minimal flex.

I have not had a chance to run it on high grip astro but i expect it to be faster as it will keep the car incontact with the track more and make the suspension work a little harder

In a nut shell since running it i think i have got faster

[MatJohnson]

But it doesn't look as good as a carbon one

[Danny McGee]

Originally Posted by Reevsey

Think i may have been the only person to try the Atomic carbon Alu chassis so far as Danny Mcgee made his own.

So far i have found it to make the car more planted, the one i have is 80g heavier than std and obviously the weight is as low as it can get, It gives me the feeling the car has more grip across the front and rear in slippy conditions even though there is no or very minimal flex.

I have not had a chance to run it on high grip astro but i expect it to be faster as it will keep the car incontact with the track more and make the suspension work a little harder

In a nut shell since running it i think i have got faster

Si's right i did make my own Alu chassis, i wanted to try out the idea after Mr atomic spoke to me about it. I would agree with Simon with the way that the car handles, mine weights in at 192g's from what i remember. The ones that i want to do next will be nearer to 350g's hopefully so i wont still have to stick extra weight in. Im be doing all of this with advice from JC as its his idea, im just doing it quicker (and cheaper).

[flipside]

Hey Danny, how much do you want your car to weigh in total?

I like the idea of low weight, but not all the weight in the chassis as you are not able to move it around anymore. The weight balance (front vs rear) of a car is quite important, and with all weight in the chassis I bet there is quite some % on the front wheels which will make it harder in low grip situations.

Think the alu chassis is ideal, with added weight under the gearbox. Or maybe a narrow alu plate as a chassis with larger graphite sidepods so you have a weight in between the alu and graphite chassis, but the heavier parts are more central. Wish I had the tools to make this stuff myself to try it out :-)

[Danny McGee]

Originally Posted by flipside

Hey Danny, how much do you want your car to weigh in total?

I like the idea of low weight, but not all the weight in the chassis as you are not able to move it around anymore. The weight balance (front vs rear) of a car is quite important, and with all weight in the chassis I bet there is quite some % on the front wheels which will make it harder in low grip situations.

Think the alu chassis is ideal, with added weight under the gearbox. Or maybe a narrow alu plate as a chassis with larger graphite sidepods so you have a weight in between the alu and graphite chassis, but the heavier parts are more central. Wish I had the tools to make this stuff myself to try it out :-)

Well mine now comes in at 1628 i think. But i have quite a bit of weight added. The Carbon one is 1726 and to be honest i think that was still better the last time i used it. Im still having a play about really.

I think ideally it would be around the 1680 -1700 mark and then i can a little bit if necessary.

Im quite lucky i guess as i work as a design engineer i have have the chace to use the mill lathe etc just a pain at the moment i dont have the time

[Piman]

Originally Posted by OldTimer

Re the motor plate & idler kit, still currently on target for the end of this month early next month.

Is the motor plate and idler kit still on track to be available soon? Want to get my order in as soon as they are available.

James

[V-Rossi]

Here is the set-up I used during the European Indoor Race in Charleroi (new astroturf, sometimes unstable/unpredictable and very grippy):

Front:
Blue spring, 30wt, #57 (black) piston, 2mm limiters => tower #1, wishbone #2
Camber link 2-A with 3 washers, -1,5° camber
Schumacher Stagger Rib with cut down beading
No front wing or lead in the nose, VLA long

Rear:
Red spring, 25wt, #57 (black) piston, no limiters => tower #2, wishbone #2
Camber link 2-B with 2 washers on hub, -2° camber
VLA long, wheelbase long, 0° anti-squat
Schumacher Mini Spike, outer row cut off (no hard inserts like Schumacher blue or new Losi!)
Wing low, medium gurney
Shocks with AE rod ends, unscrewed 2 turns.

I was using the steel T-plate (adds about 60gr), 20gr left of the motor plate and 75gr under lipo, only rear half of the battery space filled with lead.
Weight distribution is 65,2% on rear wheels, total weight 1670gr.

Car was dialled, very stable and easy to drive. I was using the green spring which had nice turn-in, but a bit pushy mid-corner. Blue spring gave more precise steering and better turn-in.