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#1
09-01-2008
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Edit Lightweight Parts Now Available
http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ed010461&lang=en
http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ed010471&lang=en 
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5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! 
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#2
09-01-2008
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Lookin good adam. Will the slipper parts fit the bj4 slipper assembly?
lil ben
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Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models
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#4
09-01-2008
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Tried new bits on my car last weekend! One word... AWSOME! Would highly recommend
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#5
09-01-2008
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Quote:
A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves!
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#11
09-01-2008
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don't you look at the Ad's in the mags Ash? It tells you on them what he does.
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#12
09-01-2008
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I havent got my mag in months lol my newsagents have a big stack of them lol
A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves!
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#13
10-01-2008
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Those parts look ace the differential parts look identicle to the bj4/b44 would they fit?
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Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS
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#14
10-01-2008
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I don't know if they'll fit the B44 or BJ4.
If someone wants to try and fit a stock HB diff into a BJ4 or B44 and let me know they're welcome to. The parts are really durable. I've had mine in since Batley Outdoor Regional last year. Jimmeh failed to notice these parts until recently... You do have to shim the diff slightly different to the standard diff and compounding tolerances never quite add up. But shimming gearboxes is very rarely the same. Here's how I normally shim them. 1. Use the same shim as you normally use on the input gear (since this has not altered). 2. Take the built diff and only place this in the bottom half of the gearbox. If the bearings are a push fit it in, make a small ~0.5mm chamfer on both sides of the bearing journal (as shown in the diag). This stops the bearing being pinched and frees up your drivetrain) 3. Now using the silver and brass shims, shim the diff only from the back of the gear side until the diff has no side to side movement but still spins freely. (This gives you the right amount of shims to 'play' with) 4. Move 0.2mm (1 Silver or 2 brass) to the other side of the diff. This provides a good starting point normally. check for back-lash between the input and ring gear. You should be able to feel some but not much. Another tip here is to get it so there is none then move 0.1mm to the front of the ring gear. 5. Write down where you put your shims on a piece of paper for your front and rear diff!!! Makes re-building so much easier
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5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try!
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#15
10-01-2008
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Yeah, got the parts today and i'm just fitting them to my car - they look ace and are much lighter than the kit versions.
Just to elaborate on Adam's tip about writing down the number of shims fitted - I write it down on the inside of the gearbox case with a paint marker. Can't lose it then! 
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#16
10-01-2008
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Quote:
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#17
10-01-2008
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Quote:
 do the blades come with the edit parts if not what part number do we need?
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#18
10-01-2008
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The blades are HB61333 - you'll need one set for each diff and one for the slipper, so three packs in total.
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#19
10-01-2008
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Quote:
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Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS
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Hot Bodies / HPI
Linear Mode
