differneces between cat sx and sx2 ??

[shaun m]

as above , are there many changes between the cat sx ( phil booth limited edition ) and sx2 ??

[Getpip]

A few.
The sx2 has been stripped of all the alloy goodies found on the Phil Booth car.
Sx2 has BB shocks (although many are running small bores) , a lipo chassis and the latest cars have a different gearbox with steel (pinion type) gears and a slightly different slipper set up.
Other contributors may know of more.

[shaun m]

cheers pip for your help , im hoping to get one , i'm trying to get one , got a couple lined up but keep getting mucked about by the sellers .. now thinking is it a sign !!

is the sx2 alot better than the sx ?

[Getpip]

They are both good cars ...

The most important thing is to buy a good one ... The very last incarnation of the SX2 with a few alloy upgrades is probably the most desirable.

If you buy a lemon it will end up costing you ... Worn and broken parts quickly add up!

[chickentikka25]

A few thoughts for you:

Make sure you have alloy steering arms, the plastic ones break immediately.
Alloy hangers/pivot blocks etc are expensive, not on the SX2 as standard, and probably a worthwhile upgrade.
4000mah 30C lipo's are the biggest I can personally find to fit comfortably in the SX2, I'm sure some larger will fit, but don't expect to run 60C/90C lipos.
Superglue is your friend. Any screws into alloy, and certainly the guide rings on the pulley (mine came free and destroyed a lipo).
IMO, the CF version of the SX2 is not worth the premium over the S1 at club level.
RCBearings stock full bearing kits for the Cat. Buy one.

[shaun m]

cheers for all your help , and to pip again too

keep it coming

[shaun m]

Originally Posted by shaun m

cheers for all your help , and to pip again too

keep it coming

just bought an sx2 , soo what upgrades are worth getting

alloy yokes 7.5 or 12.5's ?
alloy pivot blocks , which ones tho ??
and the alloy steering/radius arms ??

anything else ??

cheers again for the help received

[juergen_jl]

I came from a CAT SX I, to the SXII, now I`m using the SX III. In general the SXII is -in some aspects- better than the SXI, In others not. But see my full list.

Let`s summarise: "Improvements":
- the SXII came with a different chassis Plate. This new plate comes with 4 rectangular wholes for fixing a lipo, like the LRP ones
- the SXII came with a new Lipo strap (U3593), but this is no real deal
- the front alloy block of the SX I was fittet with a touchable 3mm screw. This was replaced by a 4mm one (but now with plastic pins)
- the rear wing is bigger/wider: U5106
- the big bore dampers front and rear. I like them very much, but, yes: you need now springs.....
- the new front wishbones: 3597, the wishbones of the SXI where touchable and I broke a lot of them.
- new rear arms: 3598, some issue as for the front.


Dis-Improvements
- the SXII came with a plastic steering, this should be removed by U3768, (former std with SXI)
- the SXII came with plastic "moulded" pins for fitting the axles. (U3588). I still use them on my SXIII, but they don`t offer any chance for different set-ups. In the SXI the following (now tuning-Parts for SXII and SXIII) where standard: rear: U3517, front: 3304 and 3556.
- the SXI came with purple Titanium turnbuckles. Now you get golden steel ones. To be honest: the new don`t brake, so I use them...
- the SXI came with the purple alloy eccentrics U3339, the SXII uses the plastic ones U3589, in my SXIII, I still use the plastic ones

Separate tuning!
- U3794, both, the SXI and the SXII came with the plastic/Metal internal gearing. this was changed, but I don`t know, if this has been standard on a SXII. (Steel Idler Gear Upgrade - CAT SX)

Which tuning is NEEDED for a SXI?
- front wishbones: so the new 3597 are better
- same rear: 3598
- bigger rear wing: 5106
- Big bore shocks
- the Steel Idler Gear Upgrade - CAT SX 3794

Which tuning is NEEDED for a SXII?
- rear pins U3517
- front pins: 3304 and 3556
- the Alloy Steering Conversion U3768

Which tuning do I additionally use?
- yokes 7,5° (on some tracks, If I dislike the steering-response)
- when it comes to the blocks 3556 (10,5 ) or 3603 (7,5) please note, that the whole caster is the sum of the yoke and the pin. I only use the 10,5 ones. Maybe I will go the 7,5° ones....
- to change the length of the front upper camber links I own both C/F Link Mounts, the 44mm U3441 and the 38,4 U3442 (one is std, it changed from CAT I to SXII, but I`m not shure)
- to change the length of the rear upper camber links I own all three C/F Link Mounts, the 49mm U3445, the 43mm U3444 and the 37,5 U3443 (one is std, it changed from CAT I to SXII, but I`m not sure which dimension)
- on low grip tracks I use the U3605 1° rear hubs together with 2,6° toe-in
- on high grip tracks (carpet) I use the front anti-roll bar, very seldom the rear anti roll bar

Never forget:
- tune the driver first
- the biggest tune up are the tyres
- the right shock spring and oil and inner plate
- now the toe in rear and front
- then the camber
- next the wishbone shock mounting holes in combination to the shock mount holes
- followed by the ride hight
- and now, the battle-field between the camber links, the caster and all of the other settings

Questions answered?

[lochness42]

I would say that Alloy steering conversion isn't needed at all - in my SX3 I'm using std plastic parts and didn't manage to break it since it's release.
It's much more reinforced compared to old SX2 version and much cheaper than alloy version.

As far as Yokes goes - I used 12.5 degrees ones for almost all the time.

I also belive that you can upgrade old SX1 or older SX2 kits with steel gears upgrade for Cougar SV (not SV2), it should be cheaper than pinion and new shafts option. You won't have slipper adjustment on spur side though - can be sorted out with suitable grub screw

[juergen_jl]

At least in germany: the price for the complete upgrade kit (shafts and pinions) is 18,8€, the 2 pinions are 10,8€. So, the price difference is small. And I am not shore, if a simple "exchange" of the 2 tooth wheels for pinions will "simply" work:
The former "upper shaft" fixed the plastic tooth wheel by using a little needle pin. The lower shaft came with a rectangular surface on a distinctive spot to fix the metal tooth wheel. I think (but i never checked it out) it is not possible, to simply swap the tooth wheels for pinions. The new shafts are coming with a flat-ed surface, like the shafts of the motors to allow the screw to get strong contact. Additionally there is a locknut to fix the pinions . For me: this solution is worth the few bucks you spend. Or better: it is cheaper than to fail during a race. But: when you are able to fix the 2 new pinions an this surfaces: go for it.

12,5° yoke. Seems, that you are racing on high traction tracks.

[lochness42]

Nope I've been running on low grip dirt tracks - it helped to calm down the car. Now with SX3 I'm running 7.5 degree yokes.

As for gears I meant U3846 Steel gears


This was Schumacher's running change solution for SX2


But as I've checked prices - they are basically the same.

[juergen_jl]

Exactly. Same price.

Und so: why using a solution, that may cause unwanted pit stops, when you get a good working solution.

I had tons of bad luck with my SXI and the SXII with the old solution. I changed to the new solution (and for the SXI of my son, too) with the solution including the shafts, and this issue seems to be sorted out.

Strange to see the different set-ups. When I see the set-ups from TOM, e.g. he reduces to 15° castor on the front on low grip tracks.

[lochness42]

I've been using spring on spur side on SX long before new running change was introduced so this config was kind of natural for me.

Yeah probably Tom is expecting something different from car. Fact is that on SX/SX2 12.5 yokes worked treat as 7.5 yokes do on SX3 (which isn't as aggresive out of the box as SX2)