S-Workz S104 Photo Build

[Answer-RC-Pete]

We have now had proper stocks of the S104 into us and have taken the opportunity to do a build blog of the S104 from S-Workz..

Not all 10thists will be overly familiar with SW but they have gone from new comer to relative strength in the 8th market pretty quickly. After establishing themselves in 8th they have decided to hunt down some success in the 10th 4wd arena with the S104 which has quite a few innovative features which all make sense.

Over the next year we will have Kevin Brunsden campaiging it and are also looking for team member to represent S-Workz in regionals and Nationals for 2014. We have some direct drives and various shop drive packages availble depending on ability, demeanour etc. Feel free to get in contact (sales@answer-rc.com) The kits are also in stock at a few different shops now as well..

First up - The Box..
(well its a box, what more can we say, nice as boxes go, but hey, its still just a box)





Next, starting to have a look at it all. All the bags are lettered A - K with all the parts needed for each bit of the build in each bag. having looked for "Bag A" we realised it was the manual and actually the build for real starts on Bag B:


The first stage of the build is tha assembly of both the front and rear diffs.
firstly we had a nosey at all the parts and all looking good so far. As is the norm for many kits these days the parts are shown full size down the left hand side of the manual to avoid confusion.





You may note that the diff outdrives have a slot cut into them where the gear locator pin passes through it. This makes the insertion of the pin very easy and is more noted on the diff case build as there is no need for a hole in the case which is sealed with a grub screw and can lead to leakage and makes insertion less fiddly. An added advantage is that the design allows for a longer pin as normally the length is limited by the gap between the outdrive and the diff case.


The rest of the diff builds pretty much as you would expect with a nice tolerance between all parts.

[Answer-RC-Pete]

Bag C:

bag C comprises the Gearbox casings, centre drive shafts, diff pinion gears and anti roll bars and one of the nice red machined toe plates.


The pinion sits in the diff case and is well supported by two of 10*15 bearings. The CVD pin and barrel are totally encapsulated by the outer of the two bearings meaning that there is no grub screw to come loose and loose a pin from the assembly.


Next up is to fit the diffs to the casings.. There is a manual addendum for these as the manual incorrectly shows these inserted the wrong way meaning the car will run backwards.

All the diff ring and pinion gears are machine cut steel so should last and last and last and last.. No expensive upgrade needed..


Now we get a feel for the car with the two bulkhead / gearbox assemblies built up.

[Answer-RC-Pete]

Next up, bag D:
This covers wichbones (upper and lower) shock towers etc.




First proper look at the SSG Shock towers, 5mm Front and 4mm Rear so they should be almost as unbreakable as they can be!


The kit comes with 6 Anti roll bars, the car uses the same size front and rear and you get two pcs of each (1.3mm, 1.5mm, 1.8mm)


Next up, front end assemblty of the wishbones, anti roll bar drop links and hingepin plate. the insert in both the front and rear suspension hangesr are adjustable for different levels of kick up.


Partially completed front end, also showing the adjustable droop screws, for 8th this is quite normal but not something Ive seen much of in 10th..

[Answer-RC-Pete]

Moving to the rear end we get to see the two part rear shock tower, aluminium lower and SSG upper section. The alloy part is angled to straighten the tower as there is rear kick up on the chassis which helps on the jumps and lessens bottoming out on uneven landings. Take care when atatching the tower as its easy to fit it to the wrong side of the alloy part.



Another cool feature is the anti roll bar holders on the gearbox, these can be released with two screws and pivoted away meaning they are not easily lost on the pit table making changin roll bars less fiddly.


A rather sturdy looking wing mount!


Serious progress now!

[Answer-RC-Pete]

Thats it for today... more tomorrow...

[Answer-RC-Pete]

Bag E:
This is all the extremities of the car, I.E knuckles, hubs, hingepins, driveshafts etc.
The first thing of note is that all four shafts are the same length making life easier for carrying spares..




First up is assembly of the frint steering knuckles.
The CVD Axles are super chunky 6mm diameter which is part of the whole new style axle design allowing use of a larger hgex and more secure fixing system. These are supported on a 6*13mm bearinga nd on the inner a 10*15mm. This rear 10*15 bearing captures the CVD pin, as per the centre driveshafts meaning no grubscrews are involved in the CVD and the pin cant come loose.

Being a pivot ball design is somewhat of a departure for 10th buggies but very common in 8th across some of the top platforms. the logic being that it gives a constantly free moving design with lots of lock and also reduced parts count in that there is no specific hub, only the knuckle.

Here we also see the large 14mm hexes which are held by a pin and a grub along the middle of the shaft.

To top this off we have SSG steering knucle plates which even in 8th have proven damned near unbreakable. The knuckles can be flipped and used either side of the car, again making the spares bag simpler..



Here we have a neary built up front end, wishbones drop easily and freely with no additional modification, steering is free and smooth.



Rotating the front end, we get to see the captured centre shaft and also a good shot of the adjustable inserts for the front blocks which allow adjustment of front kick up.


Moving on to the rear end, rear hubs build up simply and effectively.


We now have a partially built up back end as well:


And a pair of ends