Spur gear probs

[bald eagle]

Hi, I raced my x10 for the first time last night. (indoors on carpet with small and large jumps) I shredded the teeth on the spur gear after two and a half races? Ibelieve this to be one of a number of things, in the first place the motor moved on the meshing slightly. I have also heard that if the slipper is too tight, it can damage the spur when taking bigg heavy landings (of which the car had a few) What is the best way to set the slipper? Is this the most likely cause (so long as the motor doesnt move?)?
I have alos springloaded the centre shaft with a pen spring, could the shimmming be a problem of the the shaft?
Any hints and tips greatly appreciated.

[burgie]

set the slipper so that you can just turn the spur gear with your thumb when the wheels are on the ground.

a quick tip to adjust the slipper "trackside" is to hold the slipper nut with a suitable spanner, and roll the car forwards to loosen it, or backwards to tighten it. (might be the other way round)

the slipper should slip for about two feet when accelerating from a standing start.

the motor movement is a problem. the best thing to to is change the motor mount screw for one with a bigger hex head, or even a slotted screw. mesh the motor to the spur gear, and then tighten it up as much as you can, plus a little bit more.

You can also fit the X11 spur gear to your X10 which will vastly improve the situation.


The shimming of the diff is nothing to do with the spur gear stripping.

[3975dave]

Also worth meshing a little closer than other buggies. Still leave room for backlash but only very little as the spur pushes away from the motor pinion a little under load.

[bald eagle]

The shimming of the diff is nothing to do with the spur gear stripping.[/quote]


I meant the shimming of the centre shaft.

[big_boss]

"I meant the shimming of the centre shaft. "
There should be no shimming of the center (main) shaft, It should move freely forwards & backwards, that's part of the design of the car.
If you mean the mesh of the pinion & spur gears as someone said it should be quite snug but with backlash.
hope this helps.

[bald eagle]

I am sure I read somewhere the centre shaft is to be shimmed so it only ,moves around 2-3 mm front to back? When I got my car it moved around 6 -8 mm front to rear. Am I just getting confused with the side to side movement of the diff then I wonder? oh god....!!! how bloomin confusing.!

[Northy]

You only want around 1 1/2 to 2mm of front to back movement in the propshaft. If you have too much the drive pegs will become slightly disengaged with the pinon gears in the gearboxes and will A) badly wear the prop shaft ends, and B) could break the drive 'ears' off the pinion itself.

When I build up the transmission I mesh the crown wheels and pinions (in the gearboxes) just a little on the tight side, they then bed in perfectly on the first run, or you can run it in before with an old motor on 3 cells or similar.

G

[bald eagle]

Yeah, just read it in the set up guide on the pred.co.uk (hope this is ok jimmy) re the propshaft.....""

The best way to build the prop shaft is to TAKE YOUR TIME. Do several “dry
runs” and carefully ensure you have no more than 1.5-2mm of end float. (“End
Float” describes the movement of the propshaft in a forward and back motion

away from the crown wheels.) ""
so do i take it that shimming the prop is the wrong thing to do, and maybe my prop has been built incorrectly? (i got the car 2nd hand) ?
Any help is appreciated. thanks you in advance.

[Northy]

I would say your prop has been glued too short. Is it an X10 prop with a front 1 way?

G

[Lee]

I just think its because your welsh

[bald eagle]

Yes thats it mate.

[bald eagle]

Originally Posted by Lee

I just think its because your welsh

Butt out you ....ya big luv spud!!!

[Northy]

I have successfully unglued the front of a prop before, but it might damage it, do you want to know how?

G

[bald eagle]

Yes please? Do I reglue it with just a bit of superglue or something else like araldite etc? Thanks alot for this mate. your a star!

[Northy]

The basic plrinciple is heat shocking the glue (araldite). I've tried it twice, it worked once, but not the other.

Put the prop in the freezer for a couple of hours, then straight onto a gas flame (just the end metal bit that goes int the 1 way), and gently pull with pliers being carefull not to damage the metal part.

Or you might be better off just buying a new one

G

[bald eagle]

many thanks mate, I shall check the bank account and take it from there..! I will let you know how I get on.... thanks again and best of luck with the x11 I heard you had a good result yesterday

[Northy]

Cheers, yeh I did, but Brokeback spoilt it a little for me by knocking me out of the C

Got top F2 though

G

[bald eagle]

All things considered, first time out with the new car etc, I am sure you will kick even more butt next time out! ! If you need any help let me know!

[Northy]

Cheers If you could nobble some of the oposition for the last national......

[bald eagle]

Al see what I can do for you!