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#1
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My RB6 drives like crap
The car will without fail lose all rear traction and do a complete 180 around every corner, i think it happens when i let off the throttle or start applying brake.
It has great forward bite and jumps well , but it cannot negotiate corners at all. Ive asked more experienced guys for help but nothing has changed, the front just tucks in and the rear will come around. - high grip technical indoor carpet track - dboots minipins f and r - sideways battery - gear diff 3, 5 and 10k - tried 3 and 4 gearbox - tried every setup i can think of |
#2
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Just an idea so worth trying.
Are the tyres a controlled tyre as if not get rid of the d boots and get schumie yellow mini pin rear and staggers front and use medium inserts on rear. Once fitted if you get the same issue look at the geometry of the shocks plus could guess the rear is far too hard and if you have a roll bar on the rear take it off.
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www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS |
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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In my experience, if you can't get a car right it may be something that you don't check or don't have to check on a daily basis - some things are related to setup, some to the condition of the car.
It might be worth checking that: - The suspension moves freely (with dampers removed). - The droop levels and shock lengths are equal between left and right. - The dampers have low levels of friction (to overcome before the shock shaft starts moving). - The sliding surfaces of the CVD joint and outdrives are smooth and (near) flat. - All bearings run smoothly. - Your chassis is not tweaked or bent. - There are no other parts bent, cracked or otherwise damaged. Last edited by Origineelreclamebord; 21-06-2015 at 02:55 PM. |
#5
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All great advice, just worth adding that you might find a ball diff easier to drive with too.
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#6
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Agree with everything others have said on here but especially the fact that minipins on the front will give you way too much steering, RB6 steering is telepathic anyway so you really need to reduce the effectiveness of the front end.
Try Schumacher yellow cut staggers or just yellow staggers if it still has too much. Also make sure everything moves freely, take off the hubs/top links and make sure the suspension arms fall under their own weight and then reattach the hubs and make sure they do the same, if not you have a bent hinge pin somewhere which will need changing. When did you last service your shocks and change the seals? This is an area which some people neglect but by building them properly and making sure the shafts aren't bent you can transform the car even if you're not the world's best at setting up the car. Also with Kyosho shocks, while you have them apart you can polish the rods to a mirror finish for a silky smooth shock action. Just clamp the threaded end in a vice (using a piece of aluminium so you don't damage the threads!) and using a long thin piece of rag and some metal polish you can make them look like chrome. |
#7
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the advice that is given is pretty good here something are completely pointless and a waist of time and effort
check every thing is free and built correctly check nothing is binding make sure you are on the correct tire for the surface make sure your esc is setup correctly ie end points drag brake etc dont bother with polishing shock shafts this will not cause you any issues or fix your handling issues
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#9
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Quote:
I never said polishing shock rods will "fix your handling issues", I simply stated that it will give you a smoother shock action. I've been doing this for years and it delivers noticeable improvements in handling and makes shock seals and the PTFE bushes between them last longer. Why do you think car and motorcycle (and RC car!!) manufacturers spend millions of pounds developing low-friction coatings for shock shafts and fork stanchions? |
#10
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thanks for the many helpful suggestions here and via pm guys!
i have many things to check and try in order to get this problem sorted. the one thing i can rule out is any mechanical problems such as broken parts or bent shafts as i have been completely stripping the car down after each embarrassing race attempt to find the problem. i suppose im also guilty of making more than one change at a time in order to solve this issue and i guess i have lost track of what works and what doesn't, i come from an 8th scale loose dirt background and racing on this high grip carpet has been a very confusing and disheartening affair, ive wanted to just throw it in many times. first thing i will try will be getting rid of the minipin fronts as hotshot suggested and i will go from there with other suggestions. we only race every 2 weeks so progress is slow. cheers |
#11
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do you mean the steering endpoints?
i have changed steering endpoints during a race to 50%, sometimes less, and it does help, but it is only masking the problem and not fixing it as then i will be lacking steering for on power sweepers etc |
#12
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Hooking rb6
I bought a 2nd hand rb6 with a geared diff and race in high grip astro.
I had similar symptoms as you described and checked and stripped everything and filled the diff with 5k. Turned out the diff leaked all its oil within a few laps and was 'diffing out' causing to hook. Bought a ball diff and installed it and it transformed the car and stopped the hookinG. I also found the car very pointy with loads of front end grip as I was using cut yellow staggered which gave to much steering. So I would change to normal stagger at the front. Other than that as others have mentioned go back to kit set up. And try the ball diff and change the front tyres with something with less bite is my suggestion and Schumacher pins or mini spike for the rear. |
#13
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throttle endpoints. Recalibrate the tx/rx/esc so everything agrees on 0, +100 and -100.
If the esc receives gibberish signals it'll do gibberish things.Also, try getting rid of all (or most) of your drag brake. 5% should be enough. I've seen 20% drag brake (factory default on 2 of my escs) causing this. Also soften the brake a bit. I only use 50% as my maximum braking on carpet in 2wd. More than that just makes the car swap ends. |
#14
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OneSolidVato, where are you racing?
I'm sure one of us won't be too far away and could look the car over for you. As far as carpet goes the RB6 is just about the best conventional mid motor car out there for that surface. |
#15
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If it was mine I would completely rebuild the car and check everything building it back together with a setup of petit Rc or something like that. The rb6 is a good car but like everything else it's down to how that is built and how it's setup. that is true off any car you buy.
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#16
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#17
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have u added any weight as when i first got ine every body said add weight then it transformed the car.
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#18
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just an update in case anyone is experiencing similar issues.
i raced Friday night and the car was beyond excellent, it is exactly how i want it to drive, calm, plenty of steering, planted rear end and predictable! i changed to yellow front springs, lightened rear oil, moved rear anti spacer beneath rear block (reduced anti), changed front minipin tires to staggers = loving racing again! cheers for the assistance. |
#19
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Staggers
Reckon those made the biggest difference!
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Yokomo YZ2's. CaL2 and DTM2. Kyosho lazer zx Cat 2000 RC10 Worlds RC10 B3 Cougar 2's Topcat Tamiya DT02 - use as a door stop. Tamiya TL01 - paper weight. Tamiya Mini - awesome fun to race THR - Tudor-Hart Racing - Custom RC products - find us on Facebook. SHRCCC Committee Member- Track features - design and build. Returning racer after 25 year break - miss my Optima Mid Custom Special, but not brushed motors & SCE cells. www.shrccc.co.uk |
#20
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Just to clarify polishing your shock shafts didn't fix your handling issues front tyres did 👍👍👍
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