Lazer zxr

[oli4ke]

Originally Posted by alcyon

oli, I have a few bags of LA23 .

If you want to sell one set, please PM me with you price!
THX

[Ema]

Originally Posted by RalfM

Hello everybody here in this nice forum.
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First, please excuse my mad english, it is not my language, im from germany.
My first rc-car was a Tamiya Hornet, after collecting some other cars, I bought the
Kyosho Lazer ZX-R in 1992 an I owned it several years. In this time it gets some tuning
parts, like cabon-chassis, carbon-radioplate, titanium-screws and aluminium parts.
*
I loved this lazer, but unfortunarely, I sold it. Some weeks ago, I found a Lazer ZX on ebay
in good condition but with some missing parts. While looking several days on ebay, I found the most wanted parts.
*
Now I have some questions:
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1.)I am still looking for a aluminium-heat-sinking-motor-pate.
2.) I need help for adjusting the central diff. The ZX-R had a slipper, the ZX has none or a different art of working? Is there a exchange-possibility with available parts? Is it possible to take the balls out and ran it as a slipper?
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3.) The part LA 32 is crashed, I got an new one. Is there a aditional spare part in better quality?
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4.) An last: Is it sencefull to change the brushed motor an controller against a brushless-system, or ist the car not strong enough and will be damaged?
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Yesterday I testet a li-po-accu and the performance was great ;-)
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Thank you for answering and helping me!
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Best regards
RalfM
*

Welcome on board !!
Don't worry too much about your english, this thread is full of non english people (including myself ).

It's really strange that no one posted an answer before me, however ...

1) Whelsy is the guru of non kyosho parts, however finding an heat sink motor plate may be hard.

2) The Zx center diff is not so good on good grip tracks but yes, the Zx-r parts are a direct fit.
You can check the Zx and Zx-r manuals here for the correct part numbers:
http://www.retromodelisme.com/liste_manuel.html
(everyone hope that the RC10B4 slipper shaft adapter will be available sooner or later ..... )

3) If you browse this thread you will find several photo of the Whelsy's Lazer with all sort off possible hop-ups, including a carbon fibre bulkhead. Not really sure if it is still available for buy from someone on this thread.
The important thing to provent LA32 breakage is to mount a front shock tower with the upper end connected, so when you hit something the impact force is dissipated on both tower support.

I personally run the "front mount 2" here:
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/jilazer.html

Whelsy often say that the best is the "front mount" here:
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/zx.html

And ..... Yes, you can still buy them from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk .

4) I run my Lazer with a 6.5T brushless and lipo batteries, no problem at all.

Bye
Ema
P.S. There is another German guy here on the Lazer thread, if I remember right its username is Lowry .

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Ema

Welcome on board !!
Don't worry too much about your english, this thread is full of non english people (including myself ).

It's really strange that no one posted an answer before me, however ...

1) Whelsy is the guru of non kyosho parts, however finding an heat sink motor plate may be hard.

2) The Zx center diff is not so good on good grip tracks but yes, the Zx-r parts are a direct fit.
You can check the Zx and Zx-r manuals here for the correct part numbers:
http://www.retromodelisme.com/liste_manuel.html
(everyone hope that the RC10B4 slipper shaft adapter will be available sooner or later ..... )

3) If you browse this thread you will find several photo of the Whelsy's Lazer with all sort off possible hop-ups, including a carbon fibre bulkhead. Not really sure if it is still available for buy from someone on this thread.
The important thing to provent LA32 breakage is to mount a front shock tower with the upper end connected, so when you hit something the impact force is dissipated on both tower support.

I personally run the "front mount 2" here:
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/jilazer.html

Whelsy often say that the best is the "front mount" here:
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/zx.html

And ..... Yes, you can still buy them from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk .

4) I run my Lazer with a 6.5T brushless and lipo batteries, no problem at all.

Bye
Ema
P.S. There is another German guy here on the Lazer thread, if I remember right its username is Lowry .

Ema,

You havent bought my rear belt tensioner yet, may be useful

Yes Ive PM'd Ralf and they dont appear very often, only the standard kit bits on Ebay worldwide.

Yes I prefer that mount as if you do roll there is a 80 percent chance it will roll back over onto its wheels, also its more rigid. The Mount 2 is good as well and can take almost as much abuse but I did manage to break it even with the extra strengthening areas on my original design. Mind you when I crash I am going at stupid speed.

Regarding the layshaft, well ive done three big events so far with another three days solid practice with a standard steel version and there are some signs of wear on the one way section on the shaft meaning I cant rebuild it without killing the one way bearing but to be honest once the Alcyon is back and should you require a permanent 4wd without using the one way I cant see any reason why he cant sell them now as its up for the job. If like me (and I know there isnt that many) you like a one way then you need a hardend steel varient then when he can find someone to do it for me we will then update you with the costs.

The alloy and carbon fibre front gearbox isnt available and woudl recommend using the standard gearbox as thats what I am using now. The CF sides on the alloy carbon version vibrated causing the gearbox screws to come loose and cause problems in the drive train and even with my modificiations to make life easier to take it apart to maintain it was too complex and took to much time as I was unable to set my car up as all I did was rebuild the gearbox at the first event, so will take a look at a newer idea later on once everything else has been sorted.

I intend to have at least two videos of my racing this weekend and hope I have sorted the back end enough to throw it in and out of the corners, lets hope anyway.

[RalfM]

Hi Welshy40 and Ema,

thank you for answering me. I have walked several hours througt the lazer-thread here. Very much of input

For testing brushless I ordered today a combo-set ezrun 60a waterproofed with a 13T. Im am still using the belt cover. Does this belt cover reduce the movment of the belt as a kind of protecting for snapping?

At the moment I drive with a lrp-bullet F1 and a brushed Krypton 14x2 motor.

Do you think there is more power with the brushless 13T?

Is it usefull, to put driveshafts in the rear an exchange these bones (ot 6 out and W5061 in)?

Have a nice weekend!

RalfM

[HKS_TRD]

Have you got any more pics of how the front sway bar clears the body
I always thought you had to cut the nose section as a separate piece to the rest of the body to work with the sway bar

[RalfM]

Hi,

in the zx-manual the nose of the shell and the shell itself is shown as one part.
The the zx-r manual says cut off the nowse.

On my earlier zx-r `s I allways cut off the nose, but it is not realy necessary.

Look at the pictures.

Best regards

RalfM

[Welshy40]

Ralf,

I would remove the belt cover as the car is not efficient with it on.

I would also get a carbon fibre rear shock tower as the alloy ones bend easily causing a lot of damage.

Yes replace dog bone drive shafts but would advise buying LA245 as they are rebuildable but believe you may also need to buy LA257-02 which is the correct axle for the zx/zxr. This is for the rear.

[RalfM]

Hi Welshy40,

meanwhile the rear shocktower ist exchanges. The new is made of carbon.

Why does the belt cover makes the car not efficient? Ok, I will try.

I wrote you a PM cause other question. Thank you b.t.w.

I will look for LA245 and LA257-02. Oh - LA 257-2 is a wheelshaft, does I need this too? I thought LA 245 alone is enough, ow will it not work?

Edit:

Im confused:

need I this
http://www.ebay.de/itm/LA-257-KYOSHO...item2586658ccf

or this

http://www.ebay.de/itm/LA-257-02-Kyo...item258668ab89

or this

http://www.ebay.de/itm/LA-245-KYOSHO...item2586658c23

RalfM

[HKS_TRD]

Originally Posted by RalfM

Hi,

in the zx-manual the nose of the shell and the shell itself is shown as one part.
The the zx-r manual says cut off the nowse.

On my earlier zx-r `s I allways cut off the nose, but it is not realy necessary.

Look at the pictures.

Best regards

RalfM

Thanks for those pics, your Lazer looks very nice!

[kek23k]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

You contact fibrelyte and ask for the mk2 chassis which is listed and they also do a top deck. Tbh you can choose a design from any variant of the zx thru to zxr mk2 and just ask for them to make it for the mk2. Hope thid helps.

Great stuff, cheers James

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Fibrelyte actually have a tub drilled to the MKII hole pattern in stock
When they made my tub they made a mistake and drilled it to the MKII pattern instead of MKI so they are making another one for me and the MKII one is waiting for a home

Excellent, thanks for the tip. I'll give them a shout this week

Rich

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by RalfM

Why does the belt cover makes the car not efficient? Ok, I will try.

The belt cover doesn't make it inefficient, its just a belt cover that's going to make no difference to the efficiency.

It keeps the dirt out of the belts, and more importantly it is a central stiffening spine. Take the belt cover assembly off the car and you will need to replace the top deck with a one piece deck as the ZX chassis is too flexible with the ZX separate top deck pieces. The normal ZX without the belt cover just isn't stiff enough unless you fit a ZX-R top deck.

The biggest reason for removing the belt cover assembly is that it makes maintenance much easier, which is why everyone did it. Nothing to do with performance. With the central spine in place if you need to remove the front diff, the layshaft, or even just replace the front gearbox case, it involves a complete disassembly of the chassis to remove both gearboxes at once so you can take the cover out as it prevents you from taking the front belt off the pulleys with it in place. Without the belt cover maintenance is so much easier as you can work on either end without disturbing the other gearbox.
It also makes getting batteries in considerably easier as you can lift the belt up to pass a battery through the chassis, than having to get the battery under the belt cover.

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by RalfM

Hi Welshy40,

meanwhile the rear shocktower ist exchanges. The new is made of carbon.

Why does the belt cover makes the car not efficient? Ok, I will try.

I wrote you a PM cause other question. Thank you b.t.w.

I will look for LA245 and LA257-02. Oh - LA 257-2 is a wheelshaft, does I need this too? I thought LA 245 alone is enough, ow will it not work?

Edit:

Im confused:

need I this
http://www.ebay.de/itm/LA-257-KYOSHO...item2586658ccf

or this

http://www.ebay.de/itm/LA-257-02-Kyo...item258668ab89

or this

http://www.ebay.de/itm/LA-245-KYOSHO...item2586658c23

RalfM

la 231-02
is the correct wheel shaft ....

[RalfM]

Thank you guys for explaining.

if I have understood correctly, than I need LA-245(but it has not the wheelshaft in the right size) and have to complete it with LA 231-02 by changing the wheelshafts.

best regards
RalfM

PS: My 14 years old daugther Monja is producing her own songs. One of them was played by a german radio station last week. She would be happy about guys, that taking a look on her youtube-link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idiRl...ature=youtu.be

[kek23k]

Hey Ralf,

Your daughter has a good voice!

Rich

[Welshy40]

Ok well the weekends racing turned out to be a disaster but also showed the true potential of the car. After the first two rounds i was 9th overall but then the third round my gearbox decided to die, testing prototype bits does have a tendancy to fail when you dont want it to happen. So basically ended my racing which was a pity as i was on A final pace.

[oli4ke]

Originally Posted by RalfM

Thank you guys for explaining.

if I have understood correctly, than I need LA-245(but it has not the wheelshaft in the right size) and have to complete it with LA 231-02 by changing the wheelshafts.

best regards
RalfM

PS: My 14 years old daugther Monja is producing her own songs. One of them was played by a german radio station last week. She would be happy about guys, that taking a look on her youtube-link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idiRl...ature=youtu.be

NICE

[Welshy40]

Now relating to the belt cover, using lipos it wont be noticed but yes it was more efficient without and did prove this in the very early 90's. Test was done using 1400scr's. It also is easier to clean and cant really use lipos either with it in the way, also i find it works better without the cover and a belt tensioner with lipos and say a 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5 now, and do doubt anyone has a zxr that is as fast as my current runner.

[rob m]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

and do doubt anyone has a zxr that is as fast as my current runner.

Are you sure about this james? I have also developed my own adjustable belt tensioner to handle high power brushless motors.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by rob m

Are you sure about this james? I have also developed my own adjustable belt tensioner to handle high power brushless motors.

Yes, im not using the standard rear gearbox, mines carbon fibre with moveable belt tensioners and was an original design on the ZXS, which ive modifed to fit on the zxr and is much more superior to our standard gearbox tensioner mods. I do need to evaluate my tensioner design to the standard gearbox as it couldnt handle a 4.5

[Welshy40]

Videos up on utube and is listed as maritime raceway january 2014 and its my first round and was messy but forgot to video my superb second round race. Hope its good enough.