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Old 23-09-2008
Chris Ashton Chris Ashton is offline
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Default CAT SX Build Tips

Thought I would just start this thread for information and tips when building the CAT SX.

Firstly I would recommend looking at the set up sheets in the back of the manual before building the car. Unfortunately the manual was designed well before a lot of the development work was done so does not necessarily reflect how the guys have run it.

Secondly and quite importantly there are some features/settings on the car that can run you into trouble with the diff outputs both front and rear.

It is possible if the car is run with a combination of some of the following it is possible to snap the diff outputs if they drop into the output slot under full bump; (as shown in the picture below)

-Very narrow (Small amount of washers against transmission)
-Very laydown shock
-Short upper camber link
-Very short shocks

To check, hold the suspension at full bump with shock attached and make sure the driveshaft rotates smoothly and clears the slot.




I for one will be running an O ring above the spring retainer for a bit of extra impact absorption.
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Old 23-09-2008
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What a great idea.

Would be nice to see plenty of tips on here.
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Old 23-09-2008
garystyger garystyger is offline
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Cool Great tips!!

Thanks for the tips... Keep them coming...
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Old 23-09-2008
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I can recommend checking the plastic belt pully guides for sharp edges as mine have some nasty ones which could catch the belt.
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Old 23-09-2008
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well soon as i drag myself away from Ibiza i will start to build mine
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Old 23-09-2008
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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Well I have built the shocks and put all of the rest of the car together today and have the following notes and advice:-

There does seem to be alot of slop in the steering and the plastic ball cups do seem to be very slack on the balls. Whether this is a problem will only be found when the car is run.

When screwing the threaded pivot pin screws through the hub carrier into the yoke make sure the you get it as square as possible otherwise the yoke wil be stiff when rotating. Mine wen slightly out on one side and I made sure I was much more careful on the otherside.

Clean the inside of the shock bodies top and bottom and make sure that the o-rings and plastics that go in the end of the shocks are clean of any of the white power.

Put some shock oil on the threads really helps the parts go together avoiding getting anything cross threaded

I feel that the 25wt oil in the front shocks feels very light. I like the feel of the 35wt in the back. I suppose I will find out how it goes when I run the car.

Make sure that you do not follow the dimple holes in the undertray and actually measure this up and make the holes based on where the tray ends up sitting.
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Old 24-09-2008
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The setup provided by following the manual gives too much camber change front and rear. I recommend refering to a setup sheet in the back, or on here, to decide on a position - but don't start on that manual setup guys. Same goes for shock oils/pistons/position.

Also, I am sure Matt White will confirm or correct me, but where the manual setup states 0mm for the front outer ballstud height, this is when the caster block has been cut so the top is level.

Also, as mentioned, put an external spacer on the shocks. I have put 3mm in all mine tonight to begin with which is verging on excessively big (until I get some more Nortech O rings at weekend), and combined with a sensible camber link setup, the driveshafts miss the slots by miles now. O rings here are better than solid spacers, each O ring as an average compresses to 0.03', so I will be putting 2 on per shock. if your driveshaft goes into (or very close to) the slot of the outdrive at full compression - reduce driveshaft plunge further (either with camber change or car width) or limit shocks more.
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Old 24-09-2008
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Chris has a point - certainly my setups (including the one in the manual) will always be with the front caster block "flattened".
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Old 25-09-2008
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So without any longer turn buckles etc, how should the camber be set on each corner to avoid the driveshafts catching the outdrives?
Say if you only have the basic stuff and no fancy bits.
Because I've noticed that Simon runs longer links compared to Matt, do you need longer turnbckles for this or do the kit ones stretch?

What length should the camber links be? etc.
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Old 25-09-2008
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On the front, the turnbuckles are long enough. But on the rear they are only really long enough to meet the middle hole on the hub - any longer and you need a longer turnbuckle.

There is another way of helping the driveshaft miss the slot, go to a high diff. On the rear I want to keep some camber change, so I have gone to 4mm stud, middle hole, high diff.

On the front, I have gone to 1mm ballstud, 0mm on castor block (thats cut level).

Going by the setup sheets its around about what the guys have been running. No doubt I will try and change it as its still early days, but I won't self-destruct outdrives like this.
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  #11  
Old 25-09-2008
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Myself, Sharpy and Ben have been runnng cars with long rear turnbuckles and narrow upper camber mount, also the front narrow inner camber mount.

The car runs better softer - i started off trying to turn mine into a B44 but it just does not work, Keep The Oils Soft !

Everyone will have to find a setup that suit them but im glad to discuss mine with anyone at Worksop
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Old 25-09-2008
TEINsports TEINsports is offline
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Any of you guys actually 'seal' the edges of all the carbon bits n chassis, using super glue?
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Old 25-09-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEINsports View Post
Any of you guys actually 'seal' the edges of all the carbon bits n chassis, using super glue?
Lol, nah, I was too excited and had to build it!
Maybe will do my spare parts, and I need to kill some time, nowt on TV etc.
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Old 25-09-2008
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Cheers dudes,
Does it run better with the longer links then?
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Old 26-09-2008
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Good point Tel....

It would be nice to see a good base indoor starting set, using kit parts.
As from my point of view, my set-up will consist of Mossy's starting set-up as far as kit only parts are concerned, until i get hold of some of the option parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by telboy View Post
So without any longer turn buckles etc, how should the camber be set on each corner to avoid the driveshafts catching the outdrives?
Say if you only have the basic stuff and no fancy bits.
Because I've noticed that Simon runs longer links compared to Matt, do you need longer turnbckles for this or do the kit ones stretch?

What length should the camber links be? etc.
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Old 26-09-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kecky View Post
Good point Tel....

It would be nice to see a good base indoor starting set, using kit parts.

Over time, this will come. Its a new car at the moment but now many people are learning and eventually the ideas will pool, carmaggedon!
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Old 26-09-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrislong View Post
Its a new car at the moment but now many people are learning and eventually the ideas will pool, carmaggedon!
This is one of the reasons i'm looking forward to running this car so much
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  #18  
Old 29-09-2008
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Regarding rear camber links, I changed this with advice from Chris Long and Si Moss as my SX seemed to be very short of traction at the rear. I used a shorter carbon mount and the longest setting on hubs but what i did find is that the purple schumacher turnbuckles that i got on the day(Mr Schumacher himself said they were correct) were not quite up to the original quality and seemed very loose when installed. I could change camber by using my finger and thumb. The bal cups were on enough but just didnt seem like they had a deep enough thread on. I noticed most running this option had the old Lunsford turnbuckles that seemed thicker.
This option gave me so much more rear traction and made the car so much easier to drive. So much more to learn. Excellent car!
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Old 29-09-2008
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Just for you guys, I only made a few minor changes to the setup i previously posted for Worksop over the day. Here they are -

Changed Front Diff to One Way (make the car pivot through the hair pins and carry more speed through the sweeper)
Added 1mm under the front ball stud, now running 3mm (more mid corner steering)
Dropped one spring rate all round Front = Grey > Red, Rear Red > Yellow

Car felt pretty dialled all day so this is the setup i will be starting with next time. Any questions let me know.

Si
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  #20  
Old 29-09-2008
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Well looking at that, it looks as though I went the right way with my setup.

Just need to buy some new eyes!!
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