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#1
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A couple more 'Dave' parts
ive been busy again making some more bits first up is some s130 stainless king pins with a m3 thread on, was asked to make em up and will be tested soon, next up is some ally diff drive thingys i knocked a few of these up and made 2 titianium ones too for that extra bit of bling hope you guys like
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#2
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Those hub carriers are nice
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#3
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Nice job!
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LB Racing ~ RCBearings ~ RCDisCo~ SMD |
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thank you, once the hub carriers are tested they will also be for sale at a bargain price not sure how much yet, whats the input from you guys?? they are only worth what people are willing to pay for them!! but no p1ss takes want to know if they are worth making
cheers john |
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Hub carriers do indeed look great, a lovely job. Can you tell us what is the weight difference between the machined part and the stock part? As we all know, rotating mass has an influence on speed and indeed handling.
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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could you machine more slots in so they take different types of wheels ,they look ace ,il be after one off u
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i love to try the king pins what a good idea be able to adjust spring tension which i could help front end from lifting. will the m3 nut hit the wheel ?
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#8
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Quote:
The other good thing would be on the other side of the drive shaft if you could make the locking piece for the opposite wheel
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#9
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Quote:
yes i can put as many slots in as you like (within reason) bald eagle- the weight difference isnt that much, ill have to find some scales to weigh them but the ally ones are obv heavier, could machine more off them to save more weight no problem!! these are almost an exact copy of the plastic part, i made them because a few at the local club had the plastic ones melt thanks for your feed back it all helps for making what people want cheers john |
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i will get the part for the other wheel and make that so different wheels can be used
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#11
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does anyone have an old dave i can buy?? i dont have one and it makes testing for fit etc a long process a real old beaten up one will be perfect
lob me a pm cheers john |
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I might also be interested in the hub depends on the following:
How much it weighs compared to the std hub Weather it'll accept the new dish wheels that I have and the 4 spoke wheels as well And price of the item
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oOple Trader Feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54309
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#13
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Quote:
if your wheels fit the standard part they will fit this as its almost an exact copy of the original part!! im not making them for free and price will reflect the work thats gone into them cheers john Last edited by gixxer; 21-02-2011 at 05:43 PM. Reason: cos i can!!! |
#14
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i have infringed nothing and have tried to contact you
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#15
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Hub carriers
im confident they will fit properly and have worked out a price of £10 posted for the hub carrier, will be tested tomorrow evening so ill update then, cheers for now
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You have had a PM so i will hand this one over, you will be contacted very soon.
Sorry you feel no infringement has been made Chris |
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Just a quicky
2011 MARDAVE CONSTRUCTION RULES CHASSIS AND COMPONENTS STANDARD BRUSHED G2 / STOCK BRUSHLESS 13.5 Cars to be Mardave V12 or Caterham 7 based chassis and suspension. The car chassis plate may be drilled / cut-out to improve weight distribution / cooling, providing no sharp edges are left. No composite chassis allowed Ball races allowed on both front and rear axles. Either 32 or 48 dp pinion and spur gear may be used. Mardave Differentials will be allowed. Car suspension and wheel carriers shall remain as kit. <<<<<<<<<<<<<< |
#18
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ok so what about improving the rear pin...
as they always get stuck so you cannot remove them without destroying them as the screw always rounds off etc etc how about one with a hex key hole in the top so you can actually hold it still without damaging it and actually tighten it enough so it doesnt come undone and then wouldnt need to use any locktite also maybe make the base where it meets the chassis flare out a little so larger diameter then it would have more chance of sitting square or not being pulled into the thin alloy where the screws been countersunk.
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southampton mardave r/c car club |
#19
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i used grease on the screw did it up tight and was easily removed when needed
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#20
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We have a new pin design and will roll out next month part number V9D
Chris |
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