The shock towers on the 808 follow a recent trend toward carbon fibre in this area - a vast weight saving from the ultra thick alloy items usually seen on 8th scale buggies.  Strong enough?  well the carbon used is 3.5mm thick on the rear and a massive 4mm up front - and looks very high quality to boot. If you break one of these then you probably deserved it.

Xray recommend you prepare the edges of the carbon shock towers - it's a time consuming task but it makes handling the towers a lot nicer when the sharp edges are removed.

The beefy plastic moulded suspension mounts attach to the front and rear of the gearbox casings. Here you can see the front

The rear suspension is next, and is assembled onto the gearbox to form a single unit - which will be added to the chassis when fully assembled, and should make maintenance & cleaning easier. With the front gearbox put to one side, it's time to assemble the rear suspension first. 

This is all added to the gearbox with chunky plastic pivot blocks screwing onto the gearbox with some self tapping phillips screws - I'm not sure why these aren't hex-head machine screws to be honest as screwing phillips head screws into hard plastic isn't so much fun, plus it means you need more tools cluttering your pit table. 

With both pivot blocks attached, the huge rear suspension arms attach and pivot on some incredibly beefy 4mm steel bolts. Steel nyloc nuts cap the end of the hingepins and when properly adjusted actually bend the rear pivot block around a little, but apparently this is normal. Photo on the right: Rear suspension - The left side is attached but not tightened fully. The right hand side on this photo is properly adjusted, slop-free and without binding - but you can see how the rear (top) suspension block is curved forward. A plastic washer fits either side of the suspension arm to adjust the wheelbase a little later on if desired - but it will require partial disassembly of the suspension - the plastic 'c' shaped clips seen on some cars that can be removed by simply pulling off the pin would be a nicer option, but maybe that's me being lazy.

The CVD drive shafts are again made from hudy spring steel and go together nicely - in fact, these don't even use a grub screw since it's all held in place by the large diameter inner bearing covering the CVD pin.  The axle is hollow so should save a little unsprung weight. 

A smaller diameter bearing pushes into the outside of the hub carrier followed by the alloy hex wheel adaptor, which is pinned in place and a grubscrew threads through the hollow axle to keep the pin secure.  More shims are added on the outer hinge pins either side of the assembled hub carriers for more wheelbase adjustment.